649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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11-20-2016, 05:15 PM
#4382
Sorry if this question has been asked before, if I'm running the tall rear shock tower and 31mm shock bodies, which shock eyelets are people running? I assume the long ones. Running shocks on the rear of the tower also.
11-20-2016, 05:20 PM
#4383
Just finished building a B6 and wanted to set axel height to +3mm. Am I correct the kit only comes with parts to do +2 with 1mm top and 2mm bottom?
Do I need part ASC916put 76 to do +3?
This is a pic of what I did for now - put the top 1mm spacer above the spindle and added a 1mm spacer on top of the 2mm. Any reason this wouldn't do the same thing?
Do I need part ASC916put 76 to do +3?
This is a pic of what I did for now - put the top 1mm spacer above the spindle and added a 1mm spacer on top of the 2mm. Any reason this wouldn't do the same thing?
11-21-2016, 09:29 AM
#4387
If that is the case wouldn't that be exactly opposite of what most setups call for?
Meaning most carpet B6 setups use +3 and most B6D use +2 or +1??
Edit: I looked at a few more B6D setups and appears 0 is common. Sounds like AE really should include at least the 0 alum part in both kits if not 0 and 3.
Meaning most carpet B6 setups use +3 and most B6D use +2 or +1??
Edit: I looked at a few more B6D setups and appears 0 is common. Sounds like AE really should include at least the 0 alum part in both kits if not 0 and 3.
11-21-2016, 10:51 AM
#4388
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
If that is the case wouldn't that be exactly opposite of what most setups call for?
Meaning most carpet B6 setups use +3 and most B6D use +2 or +1??
Edit: I looked at a few more B6D setups and appears 0 is common. Sounds like AE really should include at least the 0 alum part in both kits if not 0 and 3.
Meaning most carpet B6 setups use +3 and most B6D use +2 or +1??
Edit: I looked at a few more B6D setups and appears 0 is common. Sounds like AE really should include at least the 0 alum part in both kits if not 0 and 3.
Your right, you would think they would include all of them in both kits
11-21-2016, 11:36 AM
#4389
Hey guys, I don't know how many of you guys race 17.5 buggy and have to get your cars weighed prior to racing but my track just started this week. My car was box stock except the MIP pucks system which I know is lighter weight. After practice I decided to try adding the 12G brass C plate for a little more rear grip, and went to the first heat and they checked my weight and it was 1502!!! This car with the MIP Pucks and nothing else would be quite a bit underweight for most 1500 weight limits.
11-21-2016, 12:10 PM
#4390
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
Hey guys, I don't know how many of you guys race 17.5 buggy and have to get your cars weighed prior to racing but my track just started this week. My car was box stock except the MIP pucks system which I know is lighter weight. After practice I decided to try adding the 12G brass C plate for a little more rear grip, and went to the first heat and they checked my weight and it was 1502!!! This car with the MIP Pucks and nothing else would be quite a bit underweight for most 1500 weight limits.
11-21-2016, 12:35 PM
#4392
11-21-2016, 06:35 PM
#4394
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
I agree, don't take my comment as a complaint because it wasn't meant to be one. I was simply shocked at just how light it really was. Like I said, we never had our stock buggies "teched" before yesterday so I was shocked to find out that even after adding the brass that it was only 1502
11-21-2016, 07:00 PM
#4395
The fact that you don't have to do anything to a B6 or B6D to get them to 1500 is why TLR is coming out with a lightweight car. I was able to get a B5M to 1411g......I'm sure that I could get the B6 down to 50 less than that. I'm just saying....I found that my cars were the easiest to drive closer to 1500 so I haven't even tried to do anything other than add weight to my B6 series cars.