EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Hey Weylin,

Ralph Angulo has your packs and bars. Andrew Ellis has some brushes and such....Ive got WAY too much here to do to be able to come out....I'll be at the Nats though.

EA

A_Cartwright

iTrader: (2)

I couldn't resist
I'm glad someone quoted that so we know your true feelings!

mini-dub

iTrader: (16)

Uh oh, back to my old tuning method. F brushes with a cavity and red/red springs geared to the MOOOOOONNNNN!!!!!

Thanks Eric, I'm sure those packs will be ballistic .

mini-dub

iTrader: (16)

You suck .

Sadly I'm guilty of the same thing but on Curry's profile .

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

You can get him back. Just get his cell and text all the girls in his address book about how hot they are. There used to be a lot there

mini-dub

iTrader: (16)

That's what he does on my phone when he's drunk , except sometimes he mistakes some of my guy friends as girls . Then he deletes all the texts he sent so I dont know about it and my friends all reply the next day and I have no idea whats going on...

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

YEAH....DENY EVERYTHING....LOL

matt-h

Hi guys, a bit off topic, but was hoping you could help,
I'm just about to put an order in for the mi2ec, i have never owned a schumacher before (currently yokomo) and was wondering what spares i was going to need to get started?
As you all have previous experience with these i was hoping you could shed some light on what is fragile or needs upgrading straight away.
obviously most cars have an achilles heel and would prefer not to find out the hard way

Your help would be much appreciated

Matt

cornerspeed

Here it is.

mini-dub

iTrader: (16)

You're actually setting us straight, we were the ones off topic.

Excellent choice on your next car , you won't be disappointed especially with all the help you can get on here.

Here's what I would get for spares:
CF front arms Mi2EC, pr (#U765) - get 2 pairs, the new front arms are very strong. I've only broken 1 new front arm.

Alloy CVD Mi2EC, pr (#U3020) - this is up to you, I've broken the pins before on the stock ones on very rare occasions. I think these are a good thing to have an extra of on hand. Just the pins seems to ever break, otherwise the CVD's are very strong and perform great.

Front hub carrier Mi2EC (#U2990) - get 1 pair

Blades, 8 (#U1918) - get 2 packs. Running a spool on some tracks can cause the blades to wear out quickly if your setup is ineffecient. Such as if your running on super low traction and the car is spinning out or super high traction and the tires never break free.

Rear hubs Mi2EC (sorry no part # on hand) - get 2 pairs

4º c-hubs Mi2 (sorry now part # on hand) - get 1 pair unless you break c-hubs often. I've only broken 1 c-hub in the past 8 months or more. In 2 years of running the car I've broken about 3 total... but some people have worse luck.

CF rear arms Mi2EC (Sorry no part number on hand) - get 1 pair, rear arms hold up really well.

Narrow rear belt Mi2EC (sorry no part number on hand) - get 1 extra, they don't break easily, they need to wear out first, but it sucks to not have one on hand when you do break one.

Basically it's just the standard suspension parts that break, but this car is very durable. Do yourself a favor though and order a P-Dub bumper right away, it will save you a buttload of parts .

matt-h

Result! Thanks

I'll be running the spool so i'll definately be ordering the blades.
On the yokomo(cough, sorry to swear, cough) i ran alloy steering arms and rear hubs, are these recommended?

Also does the kit come with a built in servo-saver......i dont crash alot......honest

I'm really looking forward to getting it, realistically it'll be towards the end of june but i may start getting some spares now, so i'm fully prepped.

my only real concern in the fact that the chassis is only 2mm thick, has anyone suffered due to this????????....horror stories this way


matt

King-G

sexy mumma jumma

mini-dub

iTrader: (16)

The 2mm chassis and topdeck are better for asphalt because they flex more, I haven't found them to be a negative anywhere. Here's what I do for chassis prep: CA the sides of the chassis.
With a file very slightly bevel the battery slots at the top to get rid of the sharp carbon edge. Just bevel them enough so the cells sit as low as possible without sticking out below the chassis.
Then CA the beveled battery slots and the vertical sides of the battery slots. This way you will prevent the carbon edge from cutting the battery heat shrink and the CA prevents a possible short.
Finally use a dremel tool and a cone shaped stone tip to bevel the tape slots so they're round. Really go at these to make the side where the tape goes nice and round so it doesn't cut the tape.

The aluminum hubs are unnecessary and the only rear ones Schumacher makes will only fit the old car and not the EC, has to do with the axle width offset of the hubs. The front hubs never break really, I've broken one in the whole time driving the car, and that was last week on a solid concrete track .... stuff didn't move. The aluminum ones just add unsprung weight.

And yes there is a servo saver built into the left steering bellcrank .

rcdougie

iTrader: (4)

thanks ground-round

DavidAlford

iTrader: (32)

Good luck everybody. This is your year Clint. I can feel it