Originally Posted by irvinew

I have to ask this question; Last weekend I was racing my TC6.2 and had a great time and had my car looked at by one of the more senior drivers there. I dont' know what car Ivan my new friend drives but it
isn't an associated. He remarked that had pretty much 0 droop in the front which is bad. We worked on the droop issue and the car was fixed using the hudy droop guage method. At first we put it at 4 on the
guage all the way around and altered I believe the rear a little after getting a feel of the car.

I thought it was okay but I eventually went back to Randy Castor's method of 35mm front, 34mm droop rear for the TC6.2. Though before was good; I went back because i already had the car this way
and was familiar on how it handled which felt dialed. I went back home and measured how much droop over ride height this method really was, it about 1mm over ride height on the front. My ride height is 5.

So I have to ask; Randy if your reading this; is 35mm front/ 34mm rear (on 10mm blocks) a setting most favorable to this car because of its design? With more droop in the rear you will get more traction in the front is my assesment; I really liked your method but find most people have more droop in the front.

I guess there's a good chance I really screwed things up but I can't see how. I did have the shocks mounted at the time.

So now I have 34mm in the rear and 33 in the front; most of the Xray drivers there run a simple 3mm over ride height front and 2mm over ride height rear; I am wondering this method of 3mm over ride height
favors the T4 because of its design. Of course we have an older a tad more bumpy carpet track so may that is why there is more droop.

Sorry for the noob question; I am still learning how droop and weight transfer can affect the handling of the car.

Originally Posted by Randy Caster

34mm rear and 35mm front is just where I usually start off with droop.

Originally Posted by Randy Caster

34mm rear and 35mm front is just where I usually start off with droop. I prefer less droop up front because I like the front tires to stay planted and give more steering on power, this can be a little hard to drive so if you would like the car to transfer more weight to the rear on power then run more front droop (maybe 34mm all around)

Originally Posted by jpx

Could you post any numbers to compare this basic setup with the other methods of measuring?
1. droop measured at the outside of the A-arms with the droop-gauge?
2. droop measured as uptravel over ride hight? Andhow much ride hight do you set for this?

Originally Posted by scoyle

I measure my droop under the arms and would like to compare my current settings of 5.5 front and 4.5 rear with yours Randy. When measuring using the axle method is it from the top of the axle to the ground on 10mm blocks? Sorry if this has already been described.

Originally Posted by fredB

I have tested the RSD servo mont on high grip carpet.

The car didn't seemed faster but easier to drive.

Fred

Originally Posted by Randy Caster

I don't even own a droop gauge to measure droop at the outside of the arm... Uptravel over ride height is roughly 3mm front and 4mm rear for outdoors. I typically am between 5-5.5mm ride height depending on the track surface.

Originally Posted by jpx

Did you use the whole set or only the servo mount without the brace for the steering posts?

Originally Posted by slashdriver

RSD is out of bladders and o-rings. What's the next best thing that fits the TC6.2 shocks?

Originally Posted by rMa

I prefer Team Associated FT Low Friction X-Rings #91493 over the RSD ones.