3Likes1/10th pan car
04-01-2007, 06:52 AM
Hi fellow pan car enthusiast,
Would anyone have Additional pictures of the Darkside MotorSport I-Force?
I got the one off the website in bigger format. but would like to get some more for my archives.
Cheers !
Matt.
Would anyone have Additional pictures of the Darkside MotorSport I-Force?
I got the one off the website in bigger format. but would like to get some more for my archives.
Cheers !
Matt.
04-01-2007, 08:01 PM
Originally Posted by Grenade10
At high speeds it seems to plant the rear much better. I have cut mine out and with really good traction, I have taped over them, if the body makes it to tight.
IMO!!
IMO!!
04-01-2007, 09:21 PM
Originally Posted by MarkA
To expand, if you don't cut them out, what you actually do is "bounce" the air straight over the rear wing at high speeds. FWIW, I never found a case with that body where it was better to have them in than out.
04-02-2007, 04:14 AM
MATTS, pm me your email and what shots youd like and I can send you some of mine.
Bob
Bob
04-02-2007, 07:01 AM
Grenade
Its never windy here! Just look at todays forecast!
Its never windy here! Just look at todays forecast!
04-02-2007, 08:49 AM
PM Sent, Thanks Bob (aka Losi nut)
Matt.
Matt.
04-02-2007, 08:54 AM
Hi all
Grenade suggested I post my 10L3 setup so we can diagnose the spinout problems.
AE Front Suspension:
Tires: RC4Less Purple 45 Shore
1.5" Kingpin (RC4Less)
Green Progressive Spring (9-11 lb)
Ride Height 7-8mm
Offset Steering Block
Steering Turnbuckle in Rear Hole
Rear Suspension
Standard Pod
Ride Height 6-7mm
Macro Shock: 30w oil, #1 Piston, Brown Spring (2.8 lbs)
Track Width 200mm
Tires: RC4Less Pink (35 shore)
Traction Compound SPF 7 suntan lotion full rear, none front
Motor CO27 with 2.0 in rollout (104 spur)
The car would push OFFPOWER and then spinout exiting the corner. DualRate was at 100%
Grenade thought the following PDF may be a good start to diagnose the problem. Thoughts?
http://richardchang.com/hobby/rctips_112_summary.pdf
Grenade suggested I post my 10L3 setup so we can diagnose the spinout problems.
AE Front Suspension:
Tires: RC4Less Purple 45 Shore
1.5" Kingpin (RC4Less)
Green Progressive Spring (9-11 lb)
Ride Height 7-8mm
Offset Steering Block
Steering Turnbuckle in Rear Hole
Rear Suspension
Standard Pod
Ride Height 6-7mm
Macro Shock: 30w oil, #1 Piston, Brown Spring (2.8 lbs)
Track Width 200mm
Tires: RC4Less Pink (35 shore)
Traction Compound SPF 7 suntan lotion full rear, none front
Motor CO27 with 2.0 in rollout (104 spur)
The car would push OFFPOWER and then spinout exiting the corner. DualRate was at 100%
Grenade thought the following PDF may be a good start to diagnose the problem. Thoughts?
http://richardchang.com/hobby/rctips_112_summary.pdf
04-02-2007, 09:25 AM
oh yeah forgot the Front Caster was 10 degrees with a shim on each side of the castor block
04-02-2007, 10:12 AM
Pushing off-power and then spinning on is a classic "your tires are too hard/bad" scenario.
thirdplace actually did extensive testing with the RC4less tires for roadcourse and I ran some as well albeit, I gave them up quickly - believe me when I say that they perform as being much harder than what they say they are. Just for example, an RC4less pink front gave my otherwise balanced car on TRC Pink fronts a push I couldn't get to be that bad on any other brand Purple... Their foam is just “different” – great for oval though…
What are you running for side shock oil/springs?
You setup sounds mechanically "grippy" - I can't see anything on the suspension itself that jumps out at me unless you come back and tell me you have 40wt in the side shocks...
I would try different tires and different sauce - we actually switched to sunscreen when trying to loosen a car up. Jaco, TRC or now, GRP, Green fronts with White rears - if that doesn't get you some bite, then start looking for other things wrong.
A classic mystery issue with pan cars is the lower rear pod plate - if it's bent/warped/weakened - even just barely visibly, the whole car goes haywire just as you describe.
thirdplace actually did extensive testing with the RC4less tires for roadcourse and I ran some as well albeit, I gave them up quickly - believe me when I say that they perform as being much harder than what they say they are. Just for example, an RC4less pink front gave my otherwise balanced car on TRC Pink fronts a push I couldn't get to be that bad on any other brand Purple... Their foam is just “different” – great for oval though…
What are you running for side shock oil/springs?
You setup sounds mechanically "grippy" - I can't see anything on the suspension itself that jumps out at me unless you come back and tell me you have 40wt in the side shocks...
I would try different tires and different sauce - we actually switched to sunscreen when trying to loosen a car up. Jaco, TRC or now, GRP, Green fronts with White rears - if that doesn't get you some bite, then start looking for other things wrong.
A classic mystery issue with pan cars is the lower rear pod plate - if it's bent/warped/weakened - even just barely visibly, the whole car goes haywire just as you describe.
04-02-2007, 10:57 AM
diff too loose? wheels out of balance real bad?
04-02-2007, 11:13 AM
A loose diff would acutally help with the car being loose on-power as it would then slip before the wheels would spin.
04-02-2007, 11:52 AM
I had my first 10th pancar race of the season last weekend.
It was our first club race.
I can't complain:
TQ and win, equallled my personal best laptime ever several times (15.5s), and I know where to find more cornering speed.
I just need to get rid of some slight push.
Also competing was a new german prototype. It's a single pivot rear suspension car (like CRC carpet knife).
The guys running it couldn't get their setup together on sunday.
We'll see more of them soon.
I'll post pictures soon.
It was our first club race.
I can't complain:
TQ and win, equallled my personal best laptime ever several times (15.5s), and I know where to find more cornering speed.
I just need to get rid of some slight push.
Also competing was a new german prototype. It's a single pivot rear suspension car (like CRC carpet knife).
The guys running it couldn't get their setup together on sunday.
We'll see more of them soon.
I'll post pictures soon.
04-02-2007, 12:11 PM
Hi MarkA
OK I be bad! VCS Micro shocks were
30W oil without a spring as I tweaked with t-bar screws. T-Bar was 0.063". Grenade can describe the diff as pretty good. I thought it was a bit loose but he thought it was ok. And remember this was with a CO27.
Grenade, we need to durameter the wheels plus the BRP fronts and the AE Green rears.
Maybe Master MarkA hit it on the nose.
OK I be bad! VCS Micro shocks were
30W oil without a spring as I tweaked with t-bar screws. T-Bar was 0.063". Grenade can describe the diff as pretty good. I thought it was a bit loose but he thought it was ok. And remember this was with a CO27. Grenade, we need to durameter the wheels plus the BRP fronts and the AE Green rears.
Maybe Master MarkA hit it on the nose.
04-02-2007, 12:13 PM
Sorry guys, my brain is a bit mushy today as the baby was up from 1am to 5:30am last night and I got a whopping 2-3 hrs and a few closed eye sessions.
Man is my daughter
hurting my toycar racing 
Man is my daughter
hurting my toycar racing
04-02-2007, 12:16 PM
If you're running a .063 T-bar and 30wt in the shocks w/ no other springs, that is going to act "stiff" because your T-bar now has to provide all the rebound - the thin T-bar is not going to be able to do that against the VCS shocks - it can do it against dampner disks but not the shocks. Try green springs, 20 or 25wt oil for the side shocks w/o the tweak screws - or, try to get the dampner disk setup as discussed a while back.
Nonetheless, that will be a minor tweak compared to getting some "gumball" tires on the car though.
Nonetheless, that will be a minor tweak compared to getting some "gumball" tires on the car though.