MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Just curious – are roll-over antennas not allowed where you race or do you not run one for another reason?

Thraex

It looks like a 1:12th!
Did you changed the wheelbase or width if you compare it with a C10 (x) or L2?

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

I didn't know my antenna tube was that straight? LOL
Seriously, I don't use a rollover antenna, it just might look that way.

It might resemble a 12th scale car. I shortened the wheelbase, and now it roughly matches the dimensions of a 12th scale car. It's slightly shorter than a C10/x.
It's about an inch shorter than a regular L2, but slightly wider up front, which really seems to stabilize it.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

NIB IRS pod plates:
http://cgi.ebay.com/IRS-Extended-Alu...QQcmdZViewItem

Still more Ti front axles:
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC10L-12L-TITANI...QQcmdZViewItem

NIB LS chassis:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Associated-New-C...QQcmdZViewItem

NIB Axles:
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC10-L-Graphite-...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-10-PAN-CAR-REA...QQcmdZViewItem

Misc tires:
http://cgi.ebay.com/JACO-TRC-COOPER-...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/JACO-1-10th-Scal...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Jaco-1-10-Pa...QQcmdZViewItem

Misc NIB parts:
http://cgi.ebay.com/WOLF-MOTORSPORTS...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/WOLF-MOTORSPORTS...QQcmdZViewItem

NIB hubs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/WOLF-MOTORSPORTS...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/SUPERIOR-RACING-...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/COMPETITION-PROD...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Associated-Facto...QQcmdZViewItem

wingman2

Hi Pro Ten Holland, just to let you know that the C10 I bought of my mate is now ready to go! I have installed my spare electronics, made some 6 cell packs from my existing 4 cell packs and have wacked in a 9 x 2 motor to try it out. I got 2 boxes full of whels/tyres which has given me a great selection to try out (I will have to true them all slightly though as they are growing mould on most of them because they have been stored for so long, yuk!). I will be trying out the car at the Mendip race track over here in the UK, the last time I went there with a Pro10 was about 14 years ago so it should be fun!! What MPR do you think I should try with that motor? Do you think a 9 is too much? Sorry for all the questions but its wise to arrive well informed just to save a bit of time! Thanks for your (and anyone else that would like to reply) help, cheers, Chris.

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

A 9tuns is OK. Just start with moderate timing, approx 3mm, and conservative rollout, approx 35mm and work your way up from there.
You will have fun, that I'm sure!

CarbonWorks

ProTen- I built a 12l4 variation last season with battery retention straps similar to what you have on your prototype. I was unable to get the car to perform as well as my taped in setup. I never really did figure out exactly why. I have to drive very far to race and I didn't want to waste too much precious time sorting it out. Any thoughts? My only conclusion was that they made the chassis too stiff around the center due to the additional torsion boxes. If I can find an old picture I'll post it. Are your straps "free floating"?.

Mike

Thraex

The most common problem with battery straps is that they can tweak the chassis, especially now with the slightly bigger cells.
It sounds like you also had that problem.

Boomer

Those posts look okay since it looks like they are adustable front and rear which should take care of the tweaking. . .

Something I noticed - that we have to deal with in 1/10th as well - your saddle-pack wire looks quite "snug" over the pod/shock area. . .which will affect the action. It should have definite slackage there.

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

I did watch for tweaking with my battery straps. I made the standofs slightly higher than stricktly neccessary, anduse pieces of foam under there to keep the cells in place without any noticeable tweeking.
However, if you tweak the chassis equal left to right, who cares?

I noticed a few small things in that picture:
1. Your battery jumper wire might inhibit rear pod motion
2. you use silver carbon, which bends easier than regular black.
If you use 3mm carbon plates your car will be too heavy. 12th scale cars are super-sensitive to weight. if you use 2mm plates, your car will be too flexible. I haven't seen 2.5mm silver carbon.
3. your batteries seem to be very far to the back of the car. I prefer my weight centered. Actually I would prefer the old Asso L3 chassis with the cells in the front position over the L4's forward position.

CarbonWorks

The silver is actually quasi-isotropic 2.5mm. My problem was definitely somewhere in the battery strap area, because after I noticed how far off pace I was I dremeled some slots in the chassis to tape the batteries in and my troubles disappeared. I went right back to my old times. The jumper wire actually allows more unrestricted pod movement than a crc car. The picture makes it look different than it is. I am quite certain that the handling deficiencies were related directly to the battery straps, but I only have theories as to why currently.

Taz_S

iTrader: (5)

so any one have this one if not i call it

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ADME:B:SS:US:1

That0neguy

yea...

DennisNyholm

iTrader: (7)

What car is that??? Looks nice

Pro ten Holland

iTrader: (1)

It's a Corally C10/X copy. Parts should be 100% compatible.