Team Magic G4
07-09-2007, 08:18 AM
#7562
Bud good to hear you running well and improving 
I know the feeling as i had a similar hassle when loosing a wing at a nat event earlier this year.
I guess to get that rear end a tad happier than it is ,maybe take out some rear toe or maybe even front caster as the car responds very well to caster changes.Personally i am more confident and faster with a understeering car than a oversteering one.
I know the feeling as i had a similar hassle when loosing a wing at a nat event earlier this year.
I guess to get that rear end a tad happier than it is ,maybe take out some rear toe or maybe even front caster as the car responds very well to caster changes.Personally i am more confident and faster with a understeering car than a oversteering one.
One more thing. I stripped the 46 tooth gear. I want more 2nd gear acceleration and not so much top speed. Does that mean i go with a 47 tooth?
thanks
07-09-2007, 08:37 AM
#7563
07-09-2007, 08:45 AM
#7564
i understand the dissapointment, i have been in a comanding position before and have had breakages, but not many. also i tend to find the front spool is very hard on belts. i check my belts after every run. the diff is much easier on the belt whilst still good performance. also the spool is very critical on tire sizes to get the best out of running it.
07-09-2007, 09:01 AM
#7565
I dont think i can afford any less toe in. If i go anymore i will spin out on the corner exit before the straight. I was hoping there was something else i could try besides less toe? The car didnt really feel like it was oversteering but it swang the rear around super fast.
One more thing. I stripped the 46 tooth gear. I want more 2nd gear acceleration and not so much top speed. Does that mean i go with a 47 tooth?
thanks
One more thing. I stripped the 46 tooth gear. I want more 2nd gear acceleration and not so much top speed. Does that mean i go with a 47 tooth?
thanks
I know the Blitz Mazda 3 feels somewhat to what you explained.
Yes if you use a 47t spur you will have a tad more accelleration.
07-09-2007, 09:08 AM
#7566
i understand the dissapointment, i have been in a comanding position before and have had breakages, but not many. also i tend to find the front spool is very hard on belts. i check my belts after every run. the diff is much easier on the belt whilst still good performance. also the spool is very critical on tire sizes to get the best out of running it.
The 2 other guys running in my club have been having issues with belts going regularly and im sure its due to this slack.
In Gansei's case with the crash the shock to the drive train is definately the cause for the belt stripping.
Have to add though that with a diff it would be a bit forgiving as it would unload through one of the outdrives unlike a spool or oneway.
07-09-2007, 10:11 AM
#7567
First I wanna thank everyone who has helped me with everything.
I'll give you a little run down of how it's been going down.
We are only 3 weeks into the point series
1st week made the b-main finished 4
2nd week made the b-main finished 1
3rd week made the a-main finished 3
I could have gotten 2nd yesterday but had some problem during the main.
First i cut a corner to sharp and ended up 3 feet in the air and landed on my back and ripped the wing off. Man do they make a difference. I had a hard time keep it straight on the straight but in the infield i loved the way the car felt. When i went into the turn the rear would get around so fast and it wouldnt break loose. Thats what i want.
My second problem was my 2nd speed gear stripped, maybe that was a good thing because if second would come in i might of spun out all the time without the wing.
Any tips on getting the rear to swing around but not break loose
I dont have my setup sheet with me but i'll try my best
spring front 1.6 rear 1.7
shock oil front/rear 60wt.
toe front 1.5 rear -2.5
camber front 2.5 rear 3.5
droop front 0 rear 3
rear diff 10k
roll bar front 0 rear 90
Again guys thanks for all the help..
I'll give you a little run down of how it's been going down.
We are only 3 weeks into the point series
1st week made the b-main finished 4
2nd week made the b-main finished 1
3rd week made the a-main finished 3
I could have gotten 2nd yesterday but had some problem during the main.
First i cut a corner to sharp and ended up 3 feet in the air and landed on my back and ripped the wing off. Man do they make a difference. I had a hard time keep it straight on the straight but in the infield i loved the way the car felt. When i went into the turn the rear would get around so fast and it wouldnt break loose. Thats what i want.
My second problem was my 2nd speed gear stripped, maybe that was a good thing because if second would come in i might of spun out all the time without the wing.
Any tips on getting the rear to swing around but not break loose
I dont have my setup sheet with me but i'll try my best
spring front 1.6 rear 1.7
shock oil front/rear 60wt.
toe front 1.5 rear -2.5
camber front 2.5 rear 3.5
droop front 0 rear 3
rear diff 10k
roll bar front 0 rear 90
Again guys thanks for all the help..
Hi,
To get the feel you might be looking for, you can try running a softer rear spring. It does give the feeling of the rear just starting to come round when hard on the power (as the rear just starts to collapse, as its softer, but differnt to running a hard rear spring which will make the rear slide, but cause too much tyre wear) and it will give you a little more steering on power. It would probably be better with a stiffer rear roll bar than the standard G4S, either the G4+ type, or the Mugen type mod.
or, a stiffer rear diff, 20 or 30K would make a fair difference.
or, a lttle more caster angle, we find 1mm of caster makes quite a big difference to on power steering.....
You are right with the rear toe, with any set up there is a minimum rear toe required (which will vary !) so you need to find what you need from somewhere else.....
Hope that ll makes sense !
Good Luck.
07-09-2007, 04:57 PM
#7568
rear roll bar had two types... adjustable type VS wire type..
i used wire type in G4S.. and after conversion G4+.. i used adjustable type.
i know that adjustable type is harder than wire type.
and adjustable type can not do detail roll bar setup
i quess that My G4S+ lost rear traction compare with G4S because replaced rear roll bar
adjustable type had no tweak.
wire type had tweak.
so new rear roll bar is developing..
adjustable type had tweak!!!
i used wire type in G4S.. and after conversion G4+.. i used adjustable type.
i know that adjustable type is harder than wire type.
and adjustable type can not do detail roll bar setup
i quess that My G4S+ lost rear traction compare with G4S because replaced rear roll bar
adjustable type had no tweak.
wire type had tweak.
so new rear roll bar is developing..
adjustable type had tweak!!!
07-09-2007, 05:33 PM
#7569
yo gansei, wats roll bar is that? better than stock or G4+?
another question guys, i have noticed that in my G4S, when u set the rear camber so that u have even tire wear, its ok with new tires, but as tire is getting smaller, it tends to wear the outer side. i tried so many times, does all G4S face this problem? coz i think mugen dun have this problem. or its just me did something wrong?
another question guys, i have noticed that in my G4S, when u set the rear camber so that u have even tire wear, its ok with new tires, but as tire is getting smaller, it tends to wear the outer side. i tried so many times, does all G4S face this problem? coz i think mugen dun have this problem. or its just me did something wrong?
07-09-2007, 05:47 PM
#7570
yo gansei, wats roll bar is that? better than stock or G4+?
another question guys, i have noticed that in my G4S, when u set the rear camber so that u have even tire wear, its ok with new tires, but as tire is getting smaller, it tends to wear the outer side. i tried so many times, does all G4S face this problem? coz i think mugen dun have this problem. or its just me did something wrong?
another question guys, i have noticed that in my G4S, when u set the rear camber so that u have even tire wear, its ok with new tires, but as tire is getting smaller, it tends to wear the outer side. i tried so many times, does all G4S face this problem? coz i think mugen dun have this problem. or its just me did something wrong?
I do notice that the outside tires wears faster than the inside. Thats because we are generally going clockwise around the track. The outside tire travels more than the inside. After every tank, or heat, I switch the left and right tires to give me longer tire life.
07-09-2007, 05:56 PM
#7571
yo gansei, wats roll bar is that? better than stock or G4+?
another question guys, i have noticed that in my G4S, when u set the rear camber so that u have even tire wear, its ok with new tires, but as tire is getting smaller, it tends to wear the outer side. i tried so many times, does all G4S face this problem? coz i think mugen dun have this problem. or its just me did something wrong?
another question guys, i have noticed that in my G4S, when u set the rear camber so that u have even tire wear, its ok with new tires, but as tire is getting smaller, it tends to wear the outer side. i tried so many times, does all G4S face this problem? coz i think mugen dun have this problem. or its just me did something wrong?
give more camber until wear out the inner side.
07-09-2007, 08:50 PM
#7573
07-09-2007, 09:45 PM
#7574
The problem with the wire sway bar drawing is that it shows force on the right going up and this pushes the left down (I may be missing something in the translation), but from what I know, this is incorrect.
If you push up, the swaybar in isolation will go up. The spring is trying to push it back down, not the sway bar.
The picture of the 1/8th car with the more solid looking swaybar means that not only are the blades affecting the amount of force that one side has on the other, but the 'centre blade' that connects to two blades will also have some effect.
On the G4+ type sway bar, this variable is removed by the solid centre mounting, so what goes up on the right, goes up on the left at the same rate for more sonsistency.
If you push up, the swaybar in isolation will go up. The spring is trying to push it back down, not the sway bar.
The picture of the 1/8th car with the more solid looking swaybar means that not only are the blades affecting the amount of force that one side has on the other, but the 'centre blade' that connects to two blades will also have some effect.
On the G4+ type sway bar, this variable is removed by the solid centre mounting, so what goes up on the right, goes up on the left at the same rate for more sonsistency.
07-09-2007, 11:15 PM
#7575
The problem with the wire sway bar drawing is that it shows force on the right going up and this pushes the left down (I may be missing something in the translation), but from what I know, this is incorrect.
If you push up, the swaybar in isolation will go up. The spring is trying to push it back down, not the sway bar.
The picture of the 1/8th car with the more solid looking swaybar means that not only are the blades affecting the amount of force that one side has on the other, but the 'centre blade' that connects to two blades will also have some effect.
On the G4+ type sway bar, this variable is removed by the solid centre mounting, so what goes up on the right, goes up on the left at the same rate for more sonsistency.
If you push up, the swaybar in isolation will go up. The spring is trying to push it back down, not the sway bar.
The picture of the 1/8th car with the more solid looking swaybar means that not only are the blades affecting the amount of force that one side has on the other, but the 'centre blade' that connects to two blades will also have some effect.
On the G4+ type sway bar, this variable is removed by the solid centre mounting, so what goes up on the right, goes up on the left at the same rate for more sonsistency.
Thats correct but i have seen some of these type swaybars being modified to make them a tad softer by slotting them.Ive marked it red in the pic.