Team Magic G4
#7711
Sorry for my english
I used the schum R12 car for two years and I don't have any problem with the diff wear. The material of the diff outputs as alloy and this is not problem with the plastic blades, of course if you replace it frequently.
The R12 have a lot of problems of fragility but not with the diff ouputs wear.
I used the schum R12 car for two years and I don't have any problem with the diff wear. The material of the diff outputs as alloy and this is not problem with the plastic blades, of course if you replace it frequently.
The R12 have a lot of problems of fragility but not with the diff ouputs wear.
I think as previously posted. The idea of putting C.V boots around these joints with grease in is favourite for now.
It's hard work but if you don't mind the high maintenence. I think removal of the drives and cleaning and re-lube after each race meet is needed.
Be careful all if you put lube on these joints without covering the joint (Ie: No heatshrink or boot of some kind, as any sort of grease or oil will attract dirt and grim, with that comes an invitation for wear.
Menace
#7712
Hi Menace,
Thanks for the reply,Sorry I was not trying to get on your case And I did not know you were a race mechanic, you must have been good because Menu did rather well I seem to remember !
Would it be possible to work out or scale up, our cornering forces ? So we could have some idea how much load we put into our cars in comparison to full size racing ?
Its interesting what you say about tyre size/ride height altering the roll centre, when it comes to long finals this will have an effect. Without thinking about it, I have accidently avoided this by not altering the ride height when I put on large tyres for the final......I dont alter the ride height, the tyre size determines the ride height (9mm front / 8mm rear, on TM set up system) and this season my car has been fantastic in finals, it feels exactly the same to drive as in qualifying !!
I think this really helps that the car is so consistent, and if the tyres wear even, then you will have a car that just gets quicker through the final I would recommend this way to anyone, and the car will run down to 3.5mm ride height (with small tyres) with no problems even with our bumpy tracks !
Thanks Menace, I learnt something there, Good stuff
For the outdrives, the K14125 are much better, you can always put some heatshrink over the outdrive, then put some grease in (the heatshrink will keep the grease in) and you will have long lasting dog bones & out drives !! If you run them dry on a dusty track, anything will wear !
For the CVD end I use serpent premium lube, this works well.
Good Luck.
Thanks for the reply,Sorry I was not trying to get on your case And I did not know you were a race mechanic, you must have been good because Menu did rather well I seem to remember !
Would it be possible to work out or scale up, our cornering forces ? So we could have some idea how much load we put into our cars in comparison to full size racing ?
Its interesting what you say about tyre size/ride height altering the roll centre, when it comes to long finals this will have an effect. Without thinking about it, I have accidently avoided this by not altering the ride height when I put on large tyres for the final......I dont alter the ride height, the tyre size determines the ride height (9mm front / 8mm rear, on TM set up system) and this season my car has been fantastic in finals, it feels exactly the same to drive as in qualifying !!
I think this really helps that the car is so consistent, and if the tyres wear even, then you will have a car that just gets quicker through the final I would recommend this way to anyone, and the car will run down to 3.5mm ride height (with small tyres) with no problems even with our bumpy tracks !
Thanks Menace, I learnt something there, Good stuff
For the outdrives, the K14125 are much better, you can always put some heatshrink over the outdrive, then put some grease in (the heatshrink will keep the grease in) and you will have long lasting dog bones & out drives !! If you run them dry on a dusty track, anything will wear !
For the CVD end I use serpent premium lube, this works well.
Good Luck.
You have hit the nail on the head with only altering ride hight with tire size. Then roll centres are not altered at all. Good idea setting this while on the guages. I'm so pleased your still doing so well accross there in England!
Yes there is a way to calculate cornering force on our cars. Believe me, it's huge in comparison. It brings so much other stuff into play and shows up the differences in COG at each end of the car and how important roll centres are.
Couple that with the wheel /tire distorsion we have (IE: Foam tires .....not generally used in full scale....lol) then it becomes a minefield!
Yes we did really well with Al Menu. I was involved in technical liason with Renault France in Aerodynamics and related suspension effect aswell as technical engineer for Renault UK. It was alot of fun in race crew ......
By the way Daz. I think your on the right train of thought with the softer rear springs and the stiffer bar. A spring angled at 45 degrees has upto 60% less effective strength. IE: Your 20LB spring is effectively now a 6 to 7LB spring!
Menace
#7713
Tech Regular
Thanks Daz,
You have hit the nail on the head with only altering ride hight with tire size. Then roll centres are not altered at all. Good idea setting this while on the guages. I'm so pleased your still doing so well accross there in England!
Yes there is a way to calculate cornering force on our cars. Believe me, it's huge in comparison. It brings so much other stuff into play and shows up the differences in COG at each end of the car and how important roll centres are.
Couple that with the wheel /tire distorsion we have (IE: Foam tires .....not generally used in full scale....lol) then it becomes a minefield!
Yes we did really well with Al Menu. I was involved in technical liason with Renault France in Aerodynamics and related suspension effect aswell as technical engineer for Renault UK. It was alot of fun in race crew ......
By the way Daz. I think your on the right train of thought with the softer rear springs and the stiffer bar. A spring angled at 45 degrees has upto 60% less effective strength. IE: Your 20LB spring is effectively now a 6 to 7LB spring!
Menace
You have hit the nail on the head with only altering ride hight with tire size. Then roll centres are not altered at all. Good idea setting this while on the guages. I'm so pleased your still doing so well accross there in England!
Yes there is a way to calculate cornering force on our cars. Believe me, it's huge in comparison. It brings so much other stuff into play and shows up the differences in COG at each end of the car and how important roll centres are.
Couple that with the wheel /tire distorsion we have (IE: Foam tires .....not generally used in full scale....lol) then it becomes a minefield!
Yes we did really well with Al Menu. I was involved in technical liason with Renault France in Aerodynamics and related suspension effect aswell as technical engineer for Renault UK. It was alot of fun in race crew ......
By the way Daz. I think your on the right train of thought with the softer rear springs and the stiffer bar. A spring angled at 45 degrees has upto 60% less effective strength. IE: Your 20LB spring is effectively now a 6 to 7LB spring!
Menace
This is getting interesting, we have the driver (DAZ) and the Enginner (BM) talking about how the car feels and what to do to resolve, that is why I love this hobby. We work on real race cars and the we "play" in hobby cars. but at the end is the same
This forum is getting a good technical level... lets keep thinking!!!
#7714
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
This is getting interesting, we have the driver (DAZ) and the Enginner (BM) talking about how the car feels and what to do to resolve, that is why I love this hobby. We work on real race cars and the we "play" in hobby cars. but at the end is the same
This forum is getting a good technical level... lets keep thinking!!!
This forum is getting a good technical level... lets keep thinking!!!
just recently i have sold my Drift Race car, i have built race cars my whole life aswell and enjoyed many fun times with great people and great times on/off track events.
i had owned this car for 4 years and luve the entire build, here are some great pictures and my best the HOT Lap with my Kodak Hodak:
HOT LAP IN CAR: http://doylecrash.com.au/video_files...0hot%20lap.wmv
#7715
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Nice pics Frankie im glad you werent driving me around in that car when i was there
some one asked a while ago, the weight on the front one way/spool compared to a front diff.
i have just built up my spare front diff and here is the weight.
Spool = 32 Grams
Front Diff = 55 grams
some one asked a while ago, the weight on the front one way/spool compared to a front diff.
i have just built up my spare front diff and here is the weight.
Spool = 32 Grams
Front Diff = 55 grams
#7716
Nice pics Frankie im glad you werent driving me around in that car when i was there
some one asked a while ago, the weight on the front one way/spool compared to a front diff.
i have just built up my spare front diff and here is the weight.
Spool = 32 Grams
Front Diff = 55 grams
some one asked a while ago, the weight on the front one way/spool compared to a front diff.
i have just built up my spare front diff and here is the weight.
Spool = 32 Grams
Front Diff = 55 grams
Ive got a lightweight spool .ill see if i can weight it with a plastic and the ally pulley.
#7717
gonna change subject a bit from 1/10th to 1:1 scale,
just recently i have sold my Drift Race car, i have built race cars my whole life aswell and enjoyed many fun times with great people and great times on/off track events.
i had owned this car for 4 years and luve the entire build, here are some great pictures and my best the HOT Lap with my Kodak Hodak:
HOT LAP IN CAR: http://doylecrash.com.au/video_files...0hot%20lap.wmv
just recently i have sold my Drift Race car, i have built race cars my whole life aswell and enjoyed many fun times with great people and great times on/off track events.
i had owned this car for 4 years and luve the entire build, here are some great pictures and my best the HOT Lap with my Kodak Hodak:
HOT LAP IN CAR: http://doylecrash.com.au/video_files...0hot%20lap.wmv
http://gansei.com.ne.kr/race.jpg
#7718
Cool gansei only thing it would be better with a see through bonnet
#7721
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
This is getting interesting, we have the driver (DAZ) and the Enginner (BM) talking about how the car feels and what to do to resolve, that is why I love this hobby. We work on real race cars and the we "play" in hobby cars. but at the end is the same
This forum is getting a good technical level... lets keep thinking!!!
This forum is getting a good technical level... lets keep thinking!!!
I think you would be surprised how many engineers and mechanics are on this forum.
#7722
502288 ---- New Rear Baulkhead
502290 ---- New Rear Bracket
502291 ---- New rear flying arms
502287 ---- Flying wing arm clip & spacer set
K14123-7 -- Flash point hub set For 4mm Stock axles)
K14130 ---- New rear roll bar
K14131 ---- New carbon brake bracket
Part K14123-7 is the wholw hub set. Front and rear.
If you want just the rear:
K14123-3 --- Flash point rear hub
K14123-4 --- Rear upper link set
K14123-1 --- Flash pit insert
Think that would get you set up with the + rear end.
Have fun.
Menace
#7723
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
These are the parts you need:
502288 ---- New Rear Baulkhead
502290 ---- New Rear Bracket
502291 ---- New rear flying arms
502287 ---- Flying wing arm clip & spacer set
K14123-7 -- Flash point hub set For 4mm Stock axles)
K14130 ---- New rear roll bar
K14131 ---- New carbon brake bracket
Part K14123-7 is the wholw hub set. Front and rear.
If you want just the rear:
K14123-3 --- Flash point rear hub
K14123-4 --- Rear upper link set
K14123-1 --- Flash pit insert
Think that would get you set up with the + rear end.
Have fun.
Menace
502288 ---- New Rear Baulkhead
502290 ---- New Rear Bracket
502291 ---- New rear flying arms
502287 ---- Flying wing arm clip & spacer set
K14123-7 -- Flash point hub set For 4mm Stock axles)
K14130 ---- New rear roll bar
K14131 ---- New carbon brake bracket
Part K14123-7 is the wholw hub set. Front and rear.
If you want just the rear:
K14123-3 --- Flash point rear hub
K14123-4 --- Rear upper link set
K14123-1 --- Flash pit insert
Think that would get you set up with the + rear end.
Have fun.
Menace
#7724
Hi! Daz...
you Got the PM!!!
and i tested G4+ rear sway bar on today..
as your advice.. the test result was good!!
Thanks a lot!!
you Got the PM!!!
and i tested G4+ rear sway bar on today..
as your advice.. the test result was good!!
Thanks a lot!!
#7725
3rd round of Turkish Championship is held in Ankara last week and my wife and I been there on Friday for practice.. we tested tyre brands, red clutch shoe, gearing, etc.. On friday, seedings were not good due to tyres. We've changed tyre brand with same set-up and car was on rails.. We qualified in group b. After quals, we were in B-final.. We took the 4th place in B-final and got chance to compete in A-final.
A-final was a 60 min. race and we were in 5th position till 50mins. I hit FR wheel and it bent heavily.. I came to pit and my wife changed it then couldn't manage to start the engine.. plug was dead, we've changed it and took 7th position at the end.
I'm so pleased with my G4S and CRF 2007 engine...
Asil
A-final was a 60 min. race and we were in 5th position till 50mins. I hit FR wheel and it bent heavily.. I came to pit and my wife changed it then couldn't manage to start the engine.. plug was dead, we've changed it and took 7th position at the end.
I'm so pleased with my G4S and CRF 2007 engine...
Asil