Team Magic G4
#6212
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
gansei, I see you're very inovative
just one question, I notice you have been having great success with your g4s, would yoou be able to just post up your toe angles and camber? plus which shocks you use.
I dont want you posting everything because you neever know when someone will copy it and try to race you with your settings, but if you don't want to post those settings i asked for i completely understand
just one question, I notice you have been having great success with your g4s, would yoou be able to just post up your toe angles and camber? plus which shocks you use.
I dont want you posting everything because you neever know when someone will copy it and try to race you with your settings, but if you don't want to post those settings i asked for i completely understand
I´m reading in your signature, you are using a bluebird servos..
Are they good ?
Thanks
#6214
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
gansei, I see you're very inovative
just one question, I notice you have been having great success with your g4s, would yoou be able to just post up your toe angles and camber? plus which shocks you use.
I dont want you posting everything because you neever know when someone will copy it and try to race you with your settings, but if you don't want to post those settings i asked for i completely understand
just one question, I notice you have been having great success with your g4s, would yoou be able to just post up your toe angles and camber? plus which shocks you use.
I dont want you posting everything because you neever know when someone will copy it and try to race you with your settings, but if you don't want to post those settings i asked for i completely understand
Front Toe Out 1.5
Rear Toe In 3.0 ~ 3.5 (But i frequently used 3.0 )
Front Camber 2.0~2.5
Rear Camber 3.5
and.. i am using Knack Shock.
1.2 X 2 hole + shock oil 700 or 800 (kyosho)
1.1 X 2hole + shock oil 400 or 500 (kyosho)
and i did same setup in TM shock.
i always care to maintain shock damper the most!!
i frequently check shock shaft must be rebound well.
well rebound shock setup help car to move sharply
#6216
Originally Posted by Serpentd
But it was all my fault for bringing too much shit to the track and running 2 classes.
At our championship, I ran in 3 classes with two RRRs (sedan different configurations PLUS one in a foam class and the other in a rubber class) and a MTX-4 (lola body), each with 3 different engines (STI,CRF,TZ), two different brands of tires (Jaco/KFactory) and on top of that, I used a Futaba tx for the RRRs and Spektrum for the 4. Working on the cars was no problem and I basically became a robot as far as prepping each car for the next race after turnmarshalling, but it was very hard to focus on driving each car well, because each car drove so differently - not only that, my mental game got slightly messed because I was distracted by issues I was having with each car.
During our normal club races, I run two cars - a primary and backup - and I always put 2-3 tanks through the backup on the track once I've setup the primary, so it's ready to go should things go terribly wrong and I need to use it in a pinch. If I have time, I get in some practice/testing and engine break-in with car #3.
Running two cars isn't so bad - but each car has to have it's own engine. Three cars becomes a handful and I think you start to lose focus and decrease your chances of doing well. Running different engines isn't so bad, as long as you are super comfortable with each and don't have tuning issues.
IMO, the best way to run more than one car, is to run the same brand of chassis, with the same configuration and it really doesn't matter what engine you have in each car. It's always a good idea to have a "tuned for the track" backup engine anyway, just in case your primary goes bad on you.
Originally Posted by Serpentd
I will only run my G4S from here on out and only run it by itself when I do race with it.
Originally Posted by Serpentd
I grabbed the tire and car and then shut off the engine on the car and started to walk the car to the pit man.
#6217
Hello guys. Asking here too:
I have a OS 12 TZ that I used when I first assembled the G4S. I used the collar, for the crankshaft, that came with the kit. (engine was new also)
When I did set the clutch, I used all the shims that came on the kit, setting the gap(that time I did, what I think, minimal clutch gap, as I just did the “bell not dragging shoe” test, and stoped shimming when it was spining freely) and then using the remaining shims on the front of the thrust bearing, to have minimal end play. It was very just, I think my first set of bearing went kaput becouse of that.
Well, now I got a Orion CRF, and, on assembling it, all the shims went into the clutch, and I still had a big end play. I had to buy a set of shims(Serpent ones, comes 2 .15 and 1 .30, I think) to add there, so end play now is very minimal, just a “hair” movement. That is using the collet that came with the CRF, the collet that came with the G4S, even with all this shims, still have a big end paly!
What am I doing wrong ? I did not start the engine, yet, afraid of any mistake I am doing.
AND(last one hehe), a document on the Kfactoty site says there should be a bigger shims to place on the crankshaft, before the collar. My kit did not have this shim(looking the UFO clutch kit, on the Kfactoty site, there it is, this shim) Did your kit have this shim?
I have a OS 12 TZ that I used when I first assembled the G4S. I used the collar, for the crankshaft, that came with the kit. (engine was new also)
When I did set the clutch, I used all the shims that came on the kit, setting the gap(that time I did, what I think, minimal clutch gap, as I just did the “bell not dragging shoe” test, and stoped shimming when it was spining freely) and then using the remaining shims on the front of the thrust bearing, to have minimal end play. It was very just, I think my first set of bearing went kaput becouse of that.
Well, now I got a Orion CRF, and, on assembling it, all the shims went into the clutch, and I still had a big end play. I had to buy a set of shims(Serpent ones, comes 2 .15 and 1 .30, I think) to add there, so end play now is very minimal, just a “hair” movement. That is using the collet that came with the CRF, the collet that came with the G4S, even with all this shims, still have a big end paly!
What am I doing wrong ? I did not start the engine, yet, afraid of any mistake I am doing.
AND(last one hehe), a document on the Kfactoty site says there should be a bigger shims to place on the crankshaft, before the collar. My kit did not have this shim(looking the UFO clutch kit, on the Kfactoty site, there it is, this shim) Did your kit have this shim?
#6218
im using 1/8th scale shepherd speed v2 shocks on my g4s at the moment
with team magic springs, seems to work very well.they dont use a bladder system and are more consistant and dont have to rebuild them as often
with team magic springs, seems to work very well.they dont use a bladder system and are more consistant and dont have to rebuild them as often
#6220
Originally Posted by Rawz
Hello guys. Asking here too:
I have a OS 12 TZ that I used when I first assembled the G4S. I used the collar, for the crankshaft, that came with the kit. (engine was new also)
When I did set the clutch, I used all the shims that came on the kit, setting the gap(that time I did, what I think, minimal clutch gap, as I just did the “bell not dragging shoe” test, and stoped shimming when it was spining freely) and then using the remaining shims on the front of the thrust bearing, to have minimal end play. It was very just, I think my first set of bearing went kaput becouse of that.
Well, now I got a Orion CRF, and, on assembling it, all the shims went into the clutch, and I still had a big end play. I had to buy a set of shims(Serpent ones, comes 2 .15 and 1 .30, I think) to add there, so end play now is very minimal, just a “hair” movement. That is using the collet that came with the CRF, the collet that came with the G4S, even with all this shims, still have a big end paly!
What am I doing wrong ? I did not start the engine, yet, afraid of any mistake I am doing.
AND(last one hehe), a document on the Kfactoty site says there should be a bigger shims to place on the crankshaft, before the collar. My kit did not have this shim(looking the UFO clutch kit, on the Kfactoty site, there it is, this shim) Did your kit have this shim?
I have a OS 12 TZ that I used when I first assembled the G4S. I used the collar, for the crankshaft, that came with the kit. (engine was new also)
When I did set the clutch, I used all the shims that came on the kit, setting the gap(that time I did, what I think, minimal clutch gap, as I just did the “bell not dragging shoe” test, and stoped shimming when it was spining freely) and then using the remaining shims on the front of the thrust bearing, to have minimal end play. It was very just, I think my first set of bearing went kaput becouse of that.
Well, now I got a Orion CRF, and, on assembling it, all the shims went into the clutch, and I still had a big end play. I had to buy a set of shims(Serpent ones, comes 2 .15 and 1 .30, I think) to add there, so end play now is very minimal, just a “hair” movement. That is using the collet that came with the CRF, the collet that came with the G4S, even with all this shims, still have a big end paly!
What am I doing wrong ? I did not start the engine, yet, afraid of any mistake I am doing.
AND(last one hehe), a document on the Kfactoty site says there should be a bigger shims to place on the crankshaft, before the collar. My kit did not have this shim(looking the UFO clutch kit, on the Kfactoty site, there it is, this shim) Did your kit have this shim?
#6221
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
i just ordered the spring set for the g4s, im trying to figer out which spring rate is best for the g4s
#6224
The kit springs (silver ones) are very similar to the Aqua (1.6mm) ones in the set.
Menace
Menace
#6225
I personally started running the Mugen springs I like the progressive rate they have. I'm pretty much doing a setup like Balestri's worlds setup and Ive liked it.