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Old 04-25-2007, 10:37 AM   #6211
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and serpent D it seems that perfer the g4s over anything else out there
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:49 AM   #6212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
gansei, I see you're very inovative


just one question, I notice you have been having great success with your g4s, would yoou be able to just post up your toe angles and camber? plus which shocks you use.

I dont want you posting everything because you neever know when someone will copy it and try to race you with your settings, but if you don't want to post those settings i asked for i completely understand

I´m reading in your signature, you are using a bluebird servos..
Are they good ?
Thanks
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:56 AM   #6213
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on sedans they are great, I just bought then cause they have metal gears put out 100oz @ .10sec and cost $20 bucks, the throttle is staying blue bird, but the steering is just staying until I buy a futaba, i want a digital for steering
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Old 04-25-2007, 01:12 PM   #6214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
gansei, I see you're very inovative


just one question, I notice you have been having great success with your g4s, would yoou be able to just post up your toe angles and camber? plus which shocks you use.

I dont want you posting everything because you neever know when someone will copy it and try to race you with your settings, but if you don't want to post those settings i asked for i completely understand
my general setup for toe,camber.

Front Toe Out 1.5
Rear Toe In 3.0 ~ 3.5 (But i frequently used 3.0 )

Front Camber 2.0~2.5
Rear Camber 3.5

and.. i am using Knack Shock.

1.2 X 2 hole + shock oil 700 or 800 (kyosho)

1.1 X 2hole + shock oil 400 or 500 (kyosho)

and i did same setup in TM shock.


i always care to maintain shock damper the most!!

i frequently check shock shaft must be rebound well.

well rebound shock setup help car to move sharply
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Old 04-25-2007, 01:56 PM   #6215
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which of the team magic shocks do you think would be most similar to the ones you use?
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Old 04-25-2007, 03:06 PM   #6216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
But it was all my fault for bringing too much shit to the track and running 2 classes.
It's possible to do, but not very easy. You have to be really, really focused.

At our championship, I ran in 3 classes with two RRRs (sedan different configurations PLUS one in a foam class and the other in a rubber class) and a MTX-4 (lola body), each with 3 different engines (STI,CRF,TZ), two different brands of tires (Jaco/KFactory) and on top of that, I used a Futaba tx for the RRRs and Spektrum for the 4. Working on the cars was no problem and I basically became a robot as far as prepping each car for the next race after turnmarshalling, but it was very hard to focus on driving each car well, because each car drove so differently - not only that, my mental game got slightly messed because I was distracted by issues I was having with each car.

During our normal club races, I run two cars - a primary and backup - and I always put 2-3 tanks through the backup on the track once I've setup the primary, so it's ready to go should things go terribly wrong and I need to use it in a pinch. If I have time, I get in some practice/testing and engine break-in with car #3.

Running two cars isn't so bad - but each car has to have it's own engine. Three cars becomes a handful and I think you start to lose focus and decrease your chances of doing well. Running different engines isn't so bad, as long as you are super comfortable with each and don't have tuning issues.

IMO, the best way to run more than one car, is to run the same brand of chassis, with the same configuration and it really doesn't matter what engine you have in each car. It's always a good idea to have a "tuned for the track" backup engine anyway, just in case your primary goes bad on you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
I will only run my G4S from here on out and only run it by itself when I do race with it.
So how much do you want for the 720? J/K!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
I grabbed the tire and car and then shut off the engine on the car and started to walk the car to the pit man.
I would have probably done the same thing.
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Old 04-25-2007, 03:25 PM   #6217
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Hello guys. Asking here too:

I have a OS 12 TZ that I used when I first assembled the G4S. I used the collar, for the crankshaft, that came with the kit. (engine was new also)
When I did set the clutch, I used all the shims that came on the kit, setting the gap(that time I did, what I think, minimal clutch gap, as I just did the “bell not dragging shoe” test, and stoped shimming when it was spining freely) and then using the remaining shims on the front of the thrust bearing, to have minimal end play. It was very just, I think my first set of bearing went kaput becouse of that.

Well, now I got a Orion CRF, and, on assembling it, all the shims went into the clutch, and I still had a big end play. I had to buy a set of shims(Serpent ones, comes 2 .15 and 1 .30, I think) to add there, so end play now is very minimal, just a “hair” movement. That is using the collet that came with the CRF, the collet that came with the G4S, even with all this shims, still have a big end paly!
What am I doing wrong ? I did not start the engine, yet, afraid of any mistake I am doing.
AND(last one hehe), a document on the Kfactoty site says there should be a bigger shims to place on the crankshaft, before the collar. My kit did not have this shim(looking the UFO clutch kit, on the Kfactoty site, there it is, this shim) Did your kit have this shim?
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Old 04-25-2007, 03:59 PM   #6218
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im using 1/8th scale shepherd speed v2 shocks on my g4s at the moment
with team magic springs, seems to work very well.they dont use a bladder system and are more consistant and dont have to rebuild them as often
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Old 04-25-2007, 06:29 PM   #6219
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i just ordered the spring set for the g4s, im trying to figer out which spring rate is best for the g4s
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Old 04-25-2007, 07:08 PM   #6220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawz
Hello guys. Asking here too:

I have a OS 12 TZ that I used when I first assembled the G4S. I used the collar, for the crankshaft, that came with the kit. (engine was new also)
When I did set the clutch, I used all the shims that came on the kit, setting the gap(that time I did, what I think, minimal clutch gap, as I just did the “bell not dragging shoe” test, and stoped shimming when it was spining freely) and then using the remaining shims on the front of the thrust bearing, to have minimal end play. It was very just, I think my first set of bearing went kaput becouse of that.

Well, now I got a Orion CRF, and, on assembling it, all the shims went into the clutch, and I still had a big end play. I had to buy a set of shims(Serpent ones, comes 2 .15 and 1 .30, I think) to add there, so end play now is very minimal, just a “hair” movement. That is using the collet that came with the CRF, the collet that came with the G4S, even with all this shims, still have a big end paly!
What am I doing wrong ? I did not start the engine, yet, afraid of any mistake I am doing.
AND(last one hehe), a document on the Kfactoty site says there should be a bigger shims to place on the crankshaft, before the collar. My kit did not have this shim(looking the UFO clutch kit, on the Kfactoty site, there it is, this shim) Did your kit have this shim?
Dude, your not doing anything wrong whatsoever. This is the reason there are shims in the first place, because every motor can be a bit different. The large shim that goes behind the collet would help out your situation though. I don't remember if I got that shim with my kit or not, I have been racing for awhile and have just ended up with tons of those shims that you happen to need. I almost alway put that large shim behind the collet just to help keep dust and stuff away from the front engine bearing. But it's not 100% necessary. If you have managed to shim everything properly without the large shim that goes behind the collet, you'll be fine. You shouldn't have any problems at all. It just happens that the difference in engine cranks, collet lengths and thickness, type of flywheel etc can make a difference every time you set up a new clutch or new engine. There are just a lot of variables that change slightly is all. Again, this is why we need those shims. If every collet, engine, flywheel and clutch bell were identical, then we wouldn't need all those little shims. However this will never be the case. Plus sometimes we like to be able to change our clutch gap for different set ups regardless. But anyway, it sounds as though your shims are set up just fine. So go ahead and fire that beast up, you'll be good bro!
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Old 04-25-2007, 07:14 PM   #6221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
i just ordered the spring set for the g4s, im trying to figer out which spring rate is best for the g4s
Dude, start out soft. Like with magenta (1.3) or pink (1.4) rears and then one step higher for the front. I don't think you will ever need to go above 1.5 on the car wich is the teal color springs.
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Old 04-25-2007, 08:37 PM   #6222
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i bought a kit for $10 that includes the 1.3, 1.4,1.6,1.7,1.8, 1.9mm springs.


any idea what the stock springs are?
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Old 04-25-2007, 08:39 PM   #6223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
i bought a kit for $10 that includes the 1.3, 1.4,1.6,1.7,1.8, 1.9mm springs.


any idea what the stock springs are?
Stock springs are 1.4 but slightly more progressive than the optional springs.
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Old 04-25-2007, 08:42 PM   #6224
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The kit springs (silver ones) are very similar to the Aqua (1.6mm) ones in the set.

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Old 04-25-2007, 09:44 PM   #6225
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I personally started running the Mugen springs I like the progressive rate they have. I'm pretty much doing a setup like Balestri's worlds setup and Ive liked it.
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