razzor

For the wear on teh diff outdrives.
Has anyone considered or tried using driveshaft blades like they use in electric ???
Could it help reduce wear ??

grub

gidday patto
mate good call
the track resembales a smamp at presant
these a lake where the ronstrum use to be
but i did sneak in two days practice this week

British Menace

Didn't Schumacher have a try at using them in the R12 Team?
I don't think they were that successful?!

Menace

casimirsa

[QUOTE=razzor;3500969]For the wear on teh diff outdrives.
Has anyone considered or tried using driveshaft blades like they use in electric ???
Could it help reduce wear ??

This is something that I noticed from almost day one of driving my G4S!
My car has now done not more than 5-6 hours of track time and the diff out drives are beyond serviceable!

Maybe TM should look at the quality of the material that they use!
If I look at my Serpent 950R the pins on the shafts is worn but the out drives are almost like day one! And that after about 40hrs of track time!
The 950 is crying for a rebuild, but I have been concentrating om my G4S!

I love my G4S, but there is certain areas where it falls short the MAJOR one the durability of the OUT DRIVES and the universals that also wear fast!

Then I have one other problem that seems I am unable to be resolve! i am going through clutch shoes as if they are tissue paper with me having a cold!
Razzor and myself have tried everything! and it is still a problem!
Come on TM do something!

gansei

[quote=casimirsa;3501387]put bearing oil on pins after every about 10 tanks run.

bearing oil will reduce the pins wear out..

uniquexme

iTrader: (12)

[QUOTE=gansei;3501432]hmm, we have found this UJ cup wear long time ago, and i have changed a new set (move the wornt out stock one to the rear), but after few months, it came loose again. i think some1 shd bring this issue to TM. according to my frenz he said that other cars like mugen, serpent, kyosho all have a set screw to keep the pin in place.

bucknuts

iTrader: (3)

Mine have also shown some wear. I use black grease or now tamiya anti-wear every time I have a chance to keep it to a minimum. The ST (Stainless Steel) ones might be better b/c it's harder, but I haven't had a chance to try them. Point contacts like this will invariably wear w/o lube. One thing I have yet to try is shrink wrapping the outside of the cup so it forms a pocket to keep the grease in.

bucknuts

iTrader: (3)

On low grip also try
1. 3-4 deg rear toe,
2. Rear shocks angled down
3. 1/2 to 1/4 full 10K diff

GBagRacing

iTrader: (1)

OK anyone run into issues with the 2 speed one way? The original one would loose it's grip on the on the shoe cam when it shifted to 2nd gear. I bought a new lt wt one way hub & the steel 2 speed shoe cam to replace them. and the same issue is happening again. when I check the drive train everything is fine . Nothing sticking grinding or dragging. Just wondering if anyone else is having or has had this issue.

grub

[QUOTE=casimirsa;3501387]try the k-factory k14125 g4 lightened diff cups as i had the same problem
my sirio would chew the factory one up,and cause rear end chatter
i also tryed the k-factory 14101 but they wore out as well, but since ive been using the 14125 had no worries with them

grub

i have the same problem with the new g4+
ill try cleaning it with brake cleaner then put some one way oil on it
i use to do this on my kyosho fw05 with perfect results

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

Just spray the bearing out with denatured alcohol (Methylated spirits here in Aus) or motor spray to remove any of the grease that comes from the factory and relube it with a very small amount of one way bearing oil (I used Team Much More high speed bearing lube and it works just as well). You need to make sure it is not overfilled with grease or oil as this is what causes it to slip. The grease is needed from the factory so the bearing doesn't rust before it's used.

GBagRacing

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Zoom & grub! Much appreciated. I'm breaking in my new engine tomorrow. Later in the day when I finally though the heat cycles and begin moderate tuning I'm sure I'll start hitting 2nd & was worried about it slipping.

muppet racing

Hi Menace,

Thanks for the reply,Sorry I was not trying to get on your case And I did not know you were a race mechanic, you must have been good because Menu did rather well I seem to remember !

Would it be possible to work out or scale up, our cornering forces ? So we could have some idea how much load we put into our cars in comparison to full size racing ?

Its interesting what you say about tyre size/ride height altering the roll centre, when it comes to long finals this will have an effect. Without thinking about it, I have accidently avoided this by not altering the ride height when I put on large tyres for the final......I dont alter the ride height, the tyre size determines the ride height (9mm front / 8mm rear, on TM set up system) and this season my car has been fantastic in finals, it feels exactly the same to drive as in qualifying !!

I think this really helps that the car is so consistent, and if the tyres wear even, then you will have a car that just gets quicker through the final I would recommend this way to anyone, and the car will run down to 3.5mm ride height (with small tyres) with no problems even with our bumpy tracks !

Thanks Menace, I learnt something there, Good stuff


For the outdrives, the K14125 are much better, you can always put some heatshrink over the outdrive, then put some grease in (the heatshrink will keep the grease in) and you will have long lasting dog bones & out drives !! If you run them dry on a dusty track, anything will wear !

For the CVD end I use serpent premium lube, this works well.

Good Luck.

otraver

Sorry for my english

I used the schum R12 car for two years and I don't have any problem with the diff wear. The material of the diff outputs as alloy and this is not problem with the plastic blades, of course if you replace it frequently.
The R12 have a lot of problems of fragility but not with the diff ouputs wear.