R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-09-2007, 09:15 AM   #7561
Tech Elite
 
Pattojnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 4,594
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady View Post
Oh man! So sorry to see this!

I don't understand what you mean too much torque .. you couldn't control the throttle?
i think the fence was torquing too much
should find a quieter part of the track Gansei.
Just kidding the translation is lost at times, but its enjoyable.
__________________
Serpent - Walter RC
Serpent E Power ..... Serpent 747 Reds M3T
Serpent 966-TE Reds M7T .... S411ERYX Speedpassion 3.5T, T-Shox
Serpent 811-TE REDs R5T
Pattojnr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 09:18 AM   #7562
Tech Elite
 
nitrobeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colonia, NJ
Posts: 2,340
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor View Post
Bud good to hear you running well and improving
I know the feeling as i had a similar hassle when loosing a wing at a nat event earlier this year.

I guess to get that rear end a tad happier than it is ,maybe take out some rear toe or maybe even front caster as the car responds very well to caster changes.Personally i am more confident and faster with a understeering car than a oversteering one.
I dont think i can afford any less toe in. If i go anymore i will spin out on the corner exit before the straight. I was hoping there was something else i could try besides less toe? The car didnt really feel like it was oversteering but it swang the rear around super fast.

One more thing. I stripped the 46 tooth gear. I want more 2nd gear acceleration and not so much top speed. Does that mean i go with a 47 tooth?

thanks
nitrobeast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 09:37 AM   #7563
Tech Fanatic
 
gansei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bander, Seoul
Posts: 889
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
i think the fence was torquing too much
should find a quieter part of the track Gansei.
Just kidding the translation is lost at times, but its enjoyable.
i think the fence was torquing too much -> you are right!!

But my mind was in that crash..
__________________
MY SPONSORS:

★ Show Hobby(Novarossi)
Km Racing HK1 Meen Version
Another Nick: Bander
gansei is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 09:45 AM   #7564
Tech Elite
 
Pattojnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 4,594
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei View Post
i think the fence was torquing too much -> you are right!!

But my mind was in that crash..
i understand the dissapointment, i have been in a comanding position before and have had breakages, but not many. also i tend to find the front spool is very hard on belts. i check my belts after every run. the diff is much easier on the belt whilst still good performance. also the spool is very critical on tire sizes to get the best out of running it.
__________________
Serpent - Walter RC
Serpent E Power ..... Serpent 747 Reds M3T
Serpent 966-TE Reds M7T .... S411ERYX Speedpassion 3.5T, T-Shox
Serpent 811-TE REDs R5T
Pattojnr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 10:01 AM   #7565
Tech Elite
 
razzor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Durban, South Africa
Posts: 2,810
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
I dont think i can afford any less toe in. If i go anymore i will spin out on the corner exit before the straight. I was hoping there was something else i could try besides less toe? The car didnt really feel like it was oversteering but it swang the rear around super fast.

One more thing. I stripped the 46 tooth gear. I want more 2nd gear acceleration and not so much top speed. Does that mean i go with a 47 tooth?

thanks
i think you would have to play around with adjustments and settings to get the feel you want although i think that will be a bit hard as your situation gave you a car that reacted that way.Might be an idea to try another body with front downforce/steering.
I know the Blitz Mazda 3 feels somewhat to what you explained.

Yes if you use a 47t spur you will have a tad more accelleration.
__________________
Casterracing ZX1.5R
casterracing EX-1 Pro, SP Silver Arrow
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 17.5, SP GT Pro 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 4.5 V2, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 13.5, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
razzor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 10:08 AM   #7566
Tech Elite
 
razzor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Durban, South Africa
Posts: 2,810
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
i understand the dissapointment, i have been in a comanding position before and have had breakages, but not many. also i tend to find the front spool is very hard on belts. i check my belts after every run. the diff is much easier on the belt whilst still good performance. also the spool is very critical on tire sizes to get the best out of running it.
That might be so but what we have noticed is that the front belt has a bit extra slack.I made a idler from 2 side tensioner bearings that i mounted on the inside of the left bulk head.This took up unecessary slack.
The 2 other guys running in my club have been having issues with belts going regularly and im sure its due to this slack.
In Gansei's case with the crash the shock to the drive train is definately the cause for the belt stripping.
Have to add though that with a diff it would be a bit forgiving as it would unload through one of the outdrives unlike a spool or oneway.
__________________
Casterracing ZX1.5R
casterracing EX-1 Pro, SP Silver Arrow
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 17.5, SP GT Pro 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 4.5 V2, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 13.5, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
razzor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 11:11 AM   #7567
Tech Apprentice
 
muppet racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 91
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
First I wanna thank everyone who has helped me with everything.
I'll give you a little run down of how it's been going down.
We are only 3 weeks into the point series

1st week made the b-main finished 4
2nd week made the b-main finished 1
3rd week made the a-main finished 3

I could have gotten 2nd yesterday but had some problem during the main.
First i cut a corner to sharp and ended up 3 feet in the air and landed on my back and ripped the wing off. Man do they make a difference. I had a hard time keep it straight on the straight but in the infield i loved the way the car felt. When i went into the turn the rear would get around so fast and it wouldnt break loose. Thats what i want.

My second problem was my 2nd speed gear stripped, maybe that was a good thing because if second would come in i might of spun out all the time without the wing.

Any tips on getting the rear to swing around but not break loose
I dont have my setup sheet with me but i'll try my best

spring front 1.6 rear 1.7
shock oil front/rear 60wt.
toe front 1.5 rear -2.5
camber front 2.5 rear 3.5
droop front 0 rear 3
rear diff 10k
roll bar front 0 rear 90

Again guys thanks for all the help..

Hi,

To get the feel you might be looking for, you can try running a softer rear spring. It does give the feeling of the rear just starting to come round when hard on the power (as the rear just starts to collapse, as its softer, but differnt to running a hard rear spring which will make the rear slide, but cause too much tyre wear) and it will give you a little more steering on power. It would probably be better with a stiffer rear roll bar than the standard G4S, either the G4+ type, or the Mugen type mod.

or, a stiffer rear diff, 20 or 30K would make a fair difference.

or, a lttle more caster angle, we find 1mm of caster makes quite a big difference to on power steering.....

You are right with the rear toe, with any set up there is a minimum rear toe required (which will vary !) so you need to find what you need from somewhere else.....

Hope that ll makes sense !
Good Luck.
muppet racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 05:57 PM   #7568
Tech Adept
 
vc05hdt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Morley,Perth W.A.
Posts: 246
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei View Post
rear roll bar had two types... adjustable type VS wire type..

i used wire type in G4S.. and after conversion G4+.. i used adjustable type.

i know that adjustable type is harder than wire type.

and adjustable type can not do detail roll bar setup

i quess that My G4S+ lost rear traction compare with G4S because replaced rear roll bar


adjustable type had no tweak.
wire type had tweak.

so new rear roll bar is developing..

adjustable type had tweak!!!







You must have too much time on your hands Gansei! Did you pics in Solidworks? Very Good
vc05hdt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 06:33 PM   #7569
Tech Fanatic
 
uniquexme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sibu, Sarawak
Posts: 901
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to uniquexme Send a message via Yahoo to uniquexme Send a message via Skype™ to uniquexme
Default

yo gansei, wats roll bar is that? better than stock or G4+?

another question guys, i have noticed that in my G4S, when u set the rear camber so that u have even tire wear, its ok with new tires, but as tire is getting smaller, it tends to wear the outer side. i tried so many times, does all G4S face this problem? coz i think mugen dun have this problem. or its just me did something wrong?
uniquexme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 06:47 PM   #7570
Tech Regular
 
dnitro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 311
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquexme View Post
yo gansei, wats roll bar is that? better than stock or G4+?

another question guys, i have noticed that in my G4S, when u set the rear camber so that u have even tire wear, its ok with new tires, but as tire is getting smaller, it tends to wear the outer side. i tried so many times, does all G4S face this problem? coz i think mugen dun have this problem. or its just me did something wrong?
Uniquexme,

I do notice that the outside tires wears faster than the inside. Thats because we are generally going clockwise around the track. The outside tire travels more than the inside. After every tank, or heat, I switch the left and right tires to give me longer tire life.
__________________
TM G4S
IDM Evo3
dnitro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 06:56 PM   #7571
Tech Fanatic
 
gansei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bander, Seoul
Posts: 889
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquexme View Post
yo gansei, wats roll bar is that? better than stock or G4+?

another question guys, i have noticed that in my G4S, when u set the rear camber so that u have even tire wear, its ok with new tires, but as tire is getting smaller, it tends to wear the outer side. i tried so many times, does all G4S face this problem? coz i think mugen dun have this problem. or its just me did something wrong?
it maybe can do more detail setup than G4+ rear roll bar...



give more camber until wear out the inner side.
__________________
MY SPONSORS:

★ Show Hobby(Novarossi)
Km Racing HK1 Meen Version
Another Nick: Bander
gansei is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 08:10 PM   #7572
Tech Master
 
Z00M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,173
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

gansei, are those drawings done by you?
__________________
My blog: http://mikesrc.wordpress.com
XRAY XB4
## NOSRAM ## XRAY ## KO ##
www.nbhc.com.au - www.teamxray.com
Z00M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 09:50 PM   #7573
Tech Fanatic
 
gansei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bander, Seoul
Posts: 889
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M View Post
gansei, are those drawings done by you?

no.. it is from japan site.. But i don't know site URL
__________________
MY SPONSORS:

★ Show Hobby(Novarossi)
Km Racing HK1 Meen Version
Another Nick: Bander
gansei is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 10:45 PM   #7574
Tech Master
 
Z00M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,173
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

The problem with the wire sway bar drawing is that it shows force on the right going up and this pushes the left down (I may be missing something in the translation), but from what I know, this is incorrect.

If you push up, the swaybar in isolation will go up. The spring is trying to push it back down, not the sway bar.

The picture of the 1/8th car with the more solid looking swaybar means that not only are the blades affecting the amount of force that one side has on the other, but the 'centre blade' that connects to two blades will also have some effect.

On the G4+ type sway bar, this variable is removed by the solid centre mounting, so what goes up on the right, goes up on the left at the same rate for more sonsistency.
__________________
My blog: http://mikesrc.wordpress.com
XRAY XB4
## NOSRAM ## XRAY ## KO ##
www.nbhc.com.au - www.teamxray.com
Z00M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2007, 12:15 AM   #7575
Tech Elite
 
razzor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Durban, South Africa
Posts: 2,810
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M View Post
The problem with the wire sway bar drawing is that it shows force on the right going up and this pushes the left down (I may be missing something in the translation), but from what I know, this is incorrect.

If you push up, the swaybar in isolation will go up. The spring is trying to push it back down, not the sway bar.

The picture of the 1/8th car with the more solid looking swaybar means that not only are the blades affecting the amount of force that one side has on the other, but the 'centre blade' that connects to two blades will also have some effect.

On the G4+ type sway bar, this variable is removed by the solid centre mounting, so what goes up on the right, goes up on the left at the same rate for more sonsistency.

Thats correct but i have seen some of these type swaybars being modified to make them a tad softer by slotting them.Ive marked it red in the pic.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Magic G4-reartopmod.jpg  
__________________
Casterracing ZX1.5R
casterracing EX-1 Pro, SP Silver Arrow
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 17.5, SP GT Pro 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 4.5 V2, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 13.5, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
razzor is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Team Magic G4 - LRP Z12R Team Spec 2 - Add RX/TX LogiK Australia For Sale/Trade 1 08-03-2007 02:00 AM
Team Magic G4s MaDaGAS CAR Australia For Sale/Trade 29 05-07-2007 03:30 AM
Brian Berry Joins Team Phenix/Team Magic Motorman Nitro On-Road 27 03-07-2006 05:51 AM
team magic g4 + elephant R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 04-26-2004 07:34 AM
Team Magic G4 "Black Magic" tennessee Nitro On-Road 32 04-20-2003 11:40 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:05 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net