2LikesXray T3 2011
11-12-2010, 09:45 AM
#781
since everyone is talking about shocks and gear diffs, here are some things I have been working on.
I didn't drill out the TRF caps, I machined down the Xray tops a little. I also run TRF bladders. One thing to consider is that TRF's are longer and at ride height, are more compressed than Xray shocks. As discussed in the HB Cyclone thread, this does seem to take some grip away.
As for the diff, you just can't come close to the quality of the NT1 diffs. Spec R's don't even come close. Now that I have mine done just watch Xray release theirs and make all the time it took a waste.
I didn't drill out the TRF caps, I machined down the Xray tops a little. I also run TRF bladders. One thing to consider is that TRF's are longer and at ride height, are more compressed than Xray shocks. As discussed in the HB Cyclone thread, this does seem to take some grip away.
As for the diff, you just can't come close to the quality of the NT1 diffs. Spec R's don't even come close. Now that I have mine done just watch Xray release theirs and make all the time it took a waste.
And second, I need those outdrives you have in your nt1 diff, will you sell me a set? I hate the tiny blades you have to use in the outdrives! Also are you running all Capricorn insides in the diff? You will have a diff that's 1 or 2 grams lighter then a spec r that holds up to modified power no problem
11-12-2010, 09:49 AM
#782
If your running 13.5 or less I'd option for the aluminum outdrives for the spool, and then get some replacement blades. Or the Flying Fox outdrives either or, but thats the only weak/wear part I've had on the car.
11-12-2010, 09:52 AM
#783
11-12-2010, 10:40 AM
#785
11-12-2010, 09:54 PM
#786
since everyone is talking about shocks and gear diffs, here are some things I have been working on.
I didn't drill out the TRF caps, I machined down the Xray tops a little. I also run TRF bladders. One thing to consider is that TRF's are longer and at ride height, are more compressed than Xray shocks. As discussed in the HB Cyclone thread, this does seem to take some grip away.
As for the diff, you just can't come close to the quality of the NT1 diffs. Spec R's don't even come close. Now that I have mine done just watch Xray release theirs and make all the time it took a waste.
I didn't drill out the TRF caps, I machined down the Xray tops a little. I also run TRF bladders. One thing to consider is that TRF's are longer and at ride height, are more compressed than Xray shocks. As discussed in the HB Cyclone thread, this does seem to take some grip away.
As for the diff, you just can't come close to the quality of the NT1 diffs. Spec R's don't even come close. Now that I have mine done just watch Xray release theirs and make all the time it took a waste.
What are those outdrives??
11-13-2010, 12:39 AM
#787
Just finished my t3 011 build and have to say how easy it goes together. Also feels really smooth and great quality, just really well designed. The only problems I had was getting the servo saver in the right place between the top deck.
In the manual it shows adding a 1mm shim under the steering arm (wheel end). Is this correct as the ball stud doesn't seem to go very far into the arm with it fitted. I had some spare screws so have used longer ones but just wanted to check.
Also I presume the plastic nuts that you can fit on the shock mounts are also optional as it says to use longer screws if needed.
In the manual it shows adding a 1mm shim under the steering arm (wheel end). Is this correct as the ball stud doesn't seem to go very far into the arm with it fitted. I had some spare screws so have used longer ones but just wanted to check.
Also I presume the plastic nuts that you can fit on the shock mounts are also optional as it says to use longer screws if needed.
11-13-2010, 01:53 AM
#788
Just finished my t3 011 build and have to say how easy it goes together. Also feels really smooth and great quality, just really well designed. The only problems I had was getting the servo saver in the right place between the top deck.
In the manual it shows adding a 1mm shim under the steering arm (wheel end). Is this correct as the ball stud doesn't seem to go very far into the arm with it fitted. I had some spare screws so have used longer ones but just wanted to check.
Also I presume the plastic nuts that you can fit on the shock mounts are also optional as it says to use longer screws if needed.
In the manual it shows adding a 1mm shim under the steering arm (wheel end). Is this correct as the ball stud doesn't seem to go very far into the arm with it fitted. I had some spare screws so have used longer ones but just wanted to check.
Also I presume the plastic nuts that you can fit on the shock mounts are also optional as it says to use longer screws if needed.
I also changed to different longer ball studs for peace of mind
11-13-2010, 03:21 AM
#789
I have been running my tamiya shocks that way for about 5 months now. And about a month ago I decided to try cutting my shock shaft so they were more extended and more oil over the piston. Magic number I came up with was 2mm lol. Car works lots better that way
And second, I need those outdrives you have in your nt1 diff, will you sell me a set? I hate the tiny blades you have to use in the outdrives! Also are you running all Capricorn insides in the diff? You will have a diff that's 1 or 2 grams lighter then a spec r that holds up to modified power no problem
And second, I need those outdrives you have in your nt1 diff, will you sell me a set? I hate the tiny blades you have to use in the outdrives! Also are you running all Capricorn insides in the diff? You will have a diff that's 1 or 2 grams lighter then a spec r that holds up to modified power no problem
The outdrive is a prototype. If Xray release a geardiff, these might be popular enough to go into production. Currently the NT1 diff requires the old 3mm blades which are chewing up fast. Considering how long blades are lasting on a spool with my outdrives, they should last an eternity on a diff. These will allow me to run 52mm driveshafts too.
Not sure about the gears for the diff. How good are the capricorn ones? I think 3racing gears fit too. I want a bulletproof diff for running mod.
11-13-2010, 06:15 AM
#790
what batteries are most running in there t3 11, do some fit better then others???
11-13-2010, 07:42 AM
#791
Tech Regular
Running an 5600Mah 50C LRP, fits fine.
11-13-2010, 08:17 AM
#792
11-13-2010, 09:07 AM
#793
Yep, 2mm shorter is where I am at. I took 1.5mm off the shafts and mount the shocks about 0.6mm higher.
The outdrive is a prototype. If Xray release a geardiff, these might be popular enough to go into production. Currently the NT1 diff requires the old 3mm blades which are chewing up fast. Considering how long blades are lasting on a spool with my outdrives, they should last an eternity on a diff. These will allow me to run 52mm driveshafts too.
Not sure about the gears for the diff. How good are the capricorn ones? I think 3racing gears fit too. I want a bulletproof diff for running mod.
The outdrive is a prototype. If Xray release a geardiff, these might be popular enough to go into production. Currently the NT1 diff requires the old 3mm blades which are chewing up fast. Considering how long blades are lasting on a spool with my outdrives, they should last an eternity on a diff. These will allow me to run 52mm driveshafts too.
Not sure about the gears for the diff. How good are the capricorn ones? I think 3racing gears fit too. I want a bulletproof diff for running mod.
. I am thinking I will have one in my hands before carpet nats.
11-13-2010, 11:09 AM
#795