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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-17-2005, 03:06 PM   #12616
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Default wtf???????

me and my buddy both bought a crc t fource team red kit. out of the box, his came with carbon t bar and mine came with fiberglass t bar?? wtf? which one is better?
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Old 04-17-2005, 03:40 PM   #12617
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all i gotta say is I LOVE 1/12 th scale.this thing was awesome today.my asphalt set up keeps getting faster and faster.last weeks lap times averaged 12.8-13.0 and this week i averaged between 12.3 and 12.6.it was like a slot car with steering.i cant wait until next weekend.
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Old 04-17-2005, 03:46 PM   #12618
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Here is a pic of protc3's 1/12th scale. It was awesome today!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg s 12th scale.jpg (69.9 KB, 140 views)
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Old 04-17-2005, 03:56 PM   #12619
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Default YRX 12

Quote:
Originally posted by IslandBwoy
Does anyone have a good setup for the YRX-12?
I'll be running on ashfault (superior hobbies if you ever been there)
Here's the set up I used on my YRX12-WE for medium bite asphalt:

Pink Rears, Purple Fronts
.020 front springs
IRS front end at 5 deg
0 deg toe
AE .063 t-bar, 2 screws in rear
40wt in shock
gold or silver shock spring (AE)
3.5-4mm rear ride height, 4-4.5mm front
Speed 8

this was for 19t
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Old 04-17-2005, 04:05 PM   #12620
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Default Re: wtf???????

Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
me and my buddy both bought a crc t fource team red kit. out of the box, his came with carbon t bar and mine came with fiberglass t bar?? wtf? which one is better?
One of them might be newer version but they are both good otherwise as T-plates I used both and I loved both so to me they both are the same.
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Old 04-17-2005, 05:22 PM   #12621
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soooo, i am VERY interested in getting into 12th scale with a few of my friends. we are looking maily at associated 12l's but this calandra movement seems very tempting. . . i heard that calandra uses mainly associated parts so the common pieces are easy to replace? also, for just onroad, and maybe carpet when we feel like doing the 2 hours to that track, what would you all reccommend? also, i need to start getting some cells. . . seems like people opt for the four cell setup more often, reccomended? thanks for your time. . . oh and if anyone is selling recent 12th scales with parts readily available in bigger LHS's i am interested in buying. . . facteam B4 for trade too
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Old 04-17-2005, 05:30 PM   #12622
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I will be getting into 12th scale racing soon, and I have a general observation of all 12th scales that I am curious about. Every 12th scale that I know of uses a fiberglass antenna tube (I guess in this case a rod). Is there a reason nobody uses a plastic tube like all other RC scales? The only reason I can think of is that a non-rigid antenna tube may cause handling and performance problems when these cars are at speed. I know this is a general rookie question here, but I'm interested in the reason.

Thanks
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Old 04-17-2005, 05:54 PM   #12623
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Professor
I will be getting into 12th scale racing soon, and I have a general observation of all 12th scales that I am curious about. Every 12th scale that I know of uses a fiberglass antenna tube (I guess in this case a rod). Is there a reason nobody uses a plastic tube like all other RC scales? The only reason I can think of is that a non-rigid antenna tube may cause handling and performance problems when these cars are at speed. I know this is a general rookie question here, but I'm interested in the reason.

Thanks
The ridgid antenna is called a "roll-over" antenna. The name is self-explanitory, but it will keep your car on 4 wheels after a roll-over 90% of the time.

They were discovered by accident; way back when 1/12th was the only electric on-road class, some guys at a big race were having glitching problems. A few racers tried attaching long pieces of piano wire to their antennas to make them longer, and subsequently discovered the advantages of the "roll-over" antenna.
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:03 PM   #12624
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
The ridgid antenna is called a "roll-over" antenna. The name is self-explanitory, but it will keep your car on 4 wheels after a roll-over 90% of the time.

They were discovered by accident; way back when 1/12th was the only electric on-road class, some guys at a big race were having glitching problems. A few racers tried attaching long pieces of piano wire to their antennas to make them longer, and subsequently discovered the advantages of the "roll-over" antenna.
who is your history teacher? i bet ur like..... 50 y/o?
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:33 PM   #12625
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can anyone suggest me a good motor for mod racing? it's for 4 cell 3300mah, 8 mins outdoor race.

I saw some people suggest 10x2 or 9x2 orion motor a while ago.. is it still the best? i want something that last reasonbly long between rebuilds as i don't have my own lathe yet (i know, mod = long life shouldn't be in the same sentence) so what motor and brush would you guys recommend? and what gear ratio will you be running with it?
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:40 PM   #12626
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RC Professor and I are both getting into 1/12th racing. My question is: For bumpy asphalt, what are the advantages, if any, that the L4 has over the L3. Also, of the CRC cars, is the Bloody Knife the best for bumpy asphalt?

Sorry for the newbie questions.
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:40 PM   #12627
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revolution motors are ur best choice if your looking for long life. as for gearing, depends on the track size and layout. ask the locals at the track.
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:43 PM   #12628
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
RC Professor and I are both getting into 1/12th racing. My question is: For bumpy asphalt, what are the advantages, if any, that the L4 has over the L3. Also, of the CRC cars, is the Bloody Knife the best for bumpy asphalt?

Sorry for the newbie questions.

almost all 12th scales has the same suspension geometry. you cant really say one thing is better than the other on bumpy track. as for the l3 and l4. the only difference i noticed was the diff, chassis and arm brace. everything else are the same.
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:57 PM   #12629
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
who is your history teacher? i bet ur like..... 50 y/o?
gee, what tipped you off?
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:59 PM   #12630
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Quote:
Originally posted by defjukie
soooo, i am VERY interested in getting into 12th scale with a few of my friends. we are looking maily at associated 12l's but this calandra movement seems very tempting. . . i heard that calandra uses mainly associated parts so the common pieces are easy to replace? also, for just onroad, and maybe carpet when we feel like doing the 2 hours to that track, what would you all reccommend? also, i need to start getting some cells. . . seems like people opt for the four cell setup more often, reccomended? thanks for your time. . . oh and if anyone is selling recent 12th scales with parts readily available in bigger LHS's i am interested in buying. . . facteam B4 for trade too
JDXray is selling some promatch batteries on the forsale thread if you would like.
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