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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-05-2012, 12:52 AM   #37786
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Anyone tried these
I have 5 of the Orion "Evil Twin Brothers", and they are excellent !
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:02 PM   #37787
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I have 5 of the Orion "Evil Twin Brothers", and they are excellent !
I take it the orion are the same
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:47 PM   #37788
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Guys wondering what your suggestion would be for the best performer 17.5 motor for my 12th. We run open boost 1s. My old Orca just isnt cutting it anymore and need a new powerplant. Is there anywhere i can find the results from some of the big races along with a list of motors used? Cheers
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:57 PM   #37789
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Originally Posted by axle182 View Post
Guys wondering what your suggestion would be for the best performer 17.5 motor for my 12th. We run open boost 1s. My old Orca just isnt cutting it anymore and need a new powerplant. Is there anywhere i can find the results from some of the big races along with a list of motors used? Cheers
http://www.rcprogear.com
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:11 PM   #37790
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I take it the orion are the same
Yes.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:18 PM   #37791
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cheers LL, looks to be a Revtech in my near future. The old Orca was a quick motor and still able to run fast, but when it reaches 5-6 mins, it gets too hot (160's) and there was considerable change. Ive read elsewhere the Revtechs are quite good at keeping cool and performing well.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:33 PM   #37792
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cheers LL, looks to be a Revtech in my near future. The old Orca was a quick motor and still able to run fast, but when it reaches 5-6 mins, it gets too hot (160's) and there was considerable change. Ive read elsewhere the Revtechs are quite good at keeping cool and performing well.
Any motor will do that over geared or over timed. You said you were running boosted and I think the Revtechs are better for blinky. For boosted, you might want to look at a D3 or Reedy.

Of course, I still like LRPs for both
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:35 PM   #37793
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Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
I was wondering what parts would be needed to convert the X11 link car to the X12.
Needs ...

X12 Chassis
Rear Bottom Plate
Rear Cross Brace
Rear Shock Mount Plate
Front Shock Mount Plate
Rear Motor Bulkheads (made shorter)
Damper Tubes
Rear Standoffs (Cross Brace)
Front Standoffs (Shock Mount)
Ball studs + Ball Cups for Tubes
Longer Shock Shaft

Wants ...

The Front Ends top arm, bottom arm and steering blocks are harder plastic and the servo saver is stiffer.

X12 - Exploded Parts View
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=8250

XII Link - Exploded Parts View
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=6509
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Last edited by ByteStream; 03-05-2012 at 02:01 PM.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:49 PM   #37794
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Any motor will do that over geared or over timed. You said you were running boosted and I think the Revtechs are better for blinky. For boosted, you might want to look at a D3 or Reedy.

Of course, I still like LRPs for both
Yep boosted. I did the right thing with the RS, started off with lower timing numbers, and built it up. Ive played around with timing vs gearing also, found a sweet spot, but its only good enough to run with the fast guys, and I loose too much once it gets hot. If i keep the temps down, the final 2 mins are great, but performance has been a little low for the first 6 mins, so i cant make up the ground. In the final at our last race, i went with performance, made my way to second, and in the final 2 mins, made the car as wide as possible
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:08 PM   #37795
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Yep boosted. I did the right thing with the RS, started off with lower timing numbers, and built it up. Ive played around with timing vs gearing also, found a sweet spot, but its only good enough to run with the fast guys, and I loose too much once it gets hot. If i keep the temps down, the final 2 mins are great, but performance has been a little low for the first 6 mins, so i cant make up the ground. In the final at our last race, i went with performance, made my way to second, and in the final 2 mins, made the car as wide as possible
Was this on a wide open high speed track, or a tight track, what size racing surface.

Unless it's wide open, I go for a punchy infield setup, and give away a bit of top end, keeps the temps cooler, with a lot less fade.

At iic last year I had to re-think things, as that track was WFO.
There, you geared tall, and just tried to roll the car as efficiently as possible thru the infield.

But for club racing it's different.
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:14 PM   #37796
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Was this on a wide open high speed track, or a tight track, what size racing surface.

Unless it's wide open, I go for a punchy infield setup, and give away a bit of top end, keeps the temps cooler, with a lot less fade.

At iic last year I had to re-think things, as that track was WFO.
There, you geared tall, and just tried to roll the car as efficiently as possible thru the infield.

But for club racing it's different.
Thanks for the response Definately tighter track, and with lowish grip. The car still had grea punch through the infield and was a rocket down the straight, but at the 5-6 min mark, the intial punch was gone, but still very decent down the straight. Its not the batt either as its a brand new reedy 6500. We will be running out bigger race at a track which is still quite tight (under 3 CRC carpets wide) but will have a much longer straight, so im sure things will be different as far as setup. Im looking for the best bang for buck motor, that is good with temps as well as punch.

For instance, in blinky tc, im running a 17.5t LRP, because they dont mind the heat and never fade with very decent performance. But i found the same motor in 1s, sluggish and i could never get it to run hard. So im looking for advice on the 1s boosted motors
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:13 PM   #37797
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Thanks for the response Definately tighter track, and with lowish grip. The car still had grea punch through the infield and was a rocket down the straight, but at the 5-6 min mark, the intial punch was gone, but still very decent down the straight. Its not the batt either as its a brand new reedy 6500. We will be running out bigger race at a track which is still quite tight (under 3 CRC carpets wide) but will have a much longer straight, so im sure things will be different as far as setup. Im looking for the best bang for buck motor, that is good with temps as well as punch.

For instance, in blinky tc, im running a 17.5t LRP, because they dont mind the heat and never fade with very decent performance. But i found the same motor in 1s, sluggish and i could never get it to run hard. So im looking for advice on the 1s boosted motors
LRP, MurfDogg, Reedy, TP, D1 & D3 all work well for 13.5 boost.
Each will require a different setup.
Mostly in can timing and gearing, as the boost parameters seem close for all of them.
I usually start out with no turbo on the RS, but with full boost, and find the roll for the layout, car should peak halfway down the straight
Then add turbo to suit for high speed layout.

For a tight track, I use turbo for punch with no delay, and less boost.
Look for .5s drop from first to last lap.
Outright lap time is not important, as the race is 8m long.
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:19 PM   #37798
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cheers LL, looks to be a Revtech in my near future. The old Orca was a quick motor and still able to run fast, but when it reaches 5-6 mins, it gets too hot (160's) and there was considerable change. Ive read elsewhere the Revtechs are quite good at keeping cool and performing well.
Axle, you should try the optional silver rotor on your Orca !
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:22 PM   #37799
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Axle, you should try the optional silver rotor on your Orca !
Well its the old black can 17.5, its seen more than its fair share of races. The RX2 looks like a nice motor, i may try this or a Reedy. Local stock will depend on what I go with. Cheers
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:31 PM   #37800
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Needs ...

X12 Chassis
Rear Bottom Plate
Rear Cross Brace
Rear Shock Mount Plate
Front Shock Mount Plate
Rear Motor Bulkheads (made shorter)
Damper Tubes
Rear Standoffs (Cross Brace)
Front Standoffs (Shock Mount)
Ball studs + Ball Cups for Tubes
Longer Shock Shaft

Wants ...

The Front Ends top arm, bottom arm and steering blocks are harder plastic and the servo saver is stiffer.

X12 - Exploded Parts View
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=8250

XII Link - Exploded Parts View
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=6509
Thanks
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