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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-10-2009, 04:14 PM   #31786
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Top man thanks John, dont suppose you have sizes? I seen a pic of the new speed passion motors from the euro's, they are a shorter can and will have connectors directly on to the end of the motor, no more solder tabs....
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Old 08-10-2009, 04:40 PM   #31787
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Conrad-My Ballistic 3.5 is 1.847 long to the shoulder. The narrowed end is .990 in diameter. Length of can is 2.080. I am told this is too much motor for a 1/12 scale. I imagine the whole series is the same size. No connectors please.
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Old 08-10-2009, 09:15 PM   #31788
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hey, there is a carpet track opening near me soon...so im looking into the 1/12 cars. this will be my first time for any on road stuff. my question is about car selection. ive always been an associated guy, so the 12r5 jumps out at me. but at the same time, im interested in the X Ray and BMI cars. i just wanted to get some feedback from u guys that run the cars. is any chassis better than the other? likes and dislikes of each car? we will have a national champion at our track all the time that drives for X Ray...so im thinking i cant go wrong with the support there.

im looking to run 17.5 with a lipo...if that makes any difference.

any info? thanks.
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Old 08-10-2009, 10:13 PM   #31789
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Any of those chassis will do well for you given they are setup right. LiPo is definately a consideration and the Xray will be a bit more fussier to get the battery to fit. Link cars like the CRC, BMI, and Speed Merchant have better battery positioning for a solid pack like a LiPo and some even have LiPo specific chassis. With the Xray you'll need to mount the battery on one side of the chassis much like TCs are today. But having that local support may be that little bit extra you want or need. My personal favorite is the BMI.
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:14 PM   #31790
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TfnG, just a thought. Speedzone will be releasing a new saddle pack 1c lipo soon so if you choose to run the xray you will be able to without the issues of a brick pack. Myself I prefer the BMI to anything else on the market.
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Old 08-11-2009, 01:35 PM   #31791
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thanks for the input guys. And thanks for the heads up on that battery.
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:19 PM   #31792
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AE has released the RC12r5.1 that can use a 1s lipo or 4 cell still and the rear pod is brushless motor friendly.
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:35 PM   #31793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conrad View Post
Top man thanks John, dont suppose you have sizes? I seen a pic of the new speed passion motors from the euro's, they are a shorter can and will have connectors directly on to the end of the motor, no more solder tabs....
I'm going to snap a pic of the new SP motor in the rear pod of a Speed Merchant Rev 5 in the next couple nights and I'll post it on here to show the new motor fitting
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Old 08-13-2009, 08:15 AM   #31794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Conrad-My Ballistic 3.5 is 1.847 long to the shoulder. The narrowed end is .990 in diameter. Length of can is 2.080. I am told this is too much motor for a 1/12 scale. I imagine the whole series is the same size. No connectors please.
Thanks mate, it will be touch and go if it fits without needing to remove any material. I'd need to have a motor to check it properly but i think the motor pod would get off with a light shave at best so i wouldnt need to loose the extra mounting hole. Just need to wait and see if it will be homologated over here for 10.5 before stumping up the pennies.

I notice the lrp/nosram motors (x11/storm) are stepped as well but not as much as the novak from the pictures i've seen, does anyone have dimensions of these.


Quote:
Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
I'm going to snap a pic of the new SP motor in the rear pod of a Speed Merchant Rev 5 in the next couple nights and I'll post it on here to show the new motor fitting
I seen a pic of that from the euro's but i'll be damned if i can find it again now i'm looking for it Apparantly the feedback from the drivers was the motor was smoother than the equivalent solder tab and there is a lower resistance drop using the connectors. Any chance you could get some sizes of the motor when you snap a pic Adam?
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Old 08-13-2009, 09:02 AM   #31795
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Hey guys i have some lipo questions. I run 17.5 to start off. Now with lipo will all i need is one pack to get me through the race night or will i need two or three lipo packs? Also if i plan on running stock is it even werth using lipo or should i stick with nimh. I believe 13.5 is going to be the motor of choice for lipo corect? Im just torn if i should bother buying a muchmore discharger if im going to switch to lipo
Thanks
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Old 08-13-2009, 09:27 AM   #31796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conrad View Post
I seen a pic of that from the euro's but i'll be damned if i can find it again now i'm looking for it Apparantly the feedback from the drivers was the motor was smoother than the equivalent solder tab and there is a lower resistance drop using the connectors. Any chance you could get some sizes of the motor when you snap a pic Adam?
I'll have my hands on one of the new motors for my 12th on Monday and I'll get a couple pics then.
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Old 08-13-2009, 11:33 AM   #31797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CREWMAN View Post
Hey guys i have some lipo questions. I run 17.5 to start off. Now with lipo will all i need is one pack to get me through the race night or will i need two or three lipo packs? Also if i plan on running stock is it even werth using lipo or should i stick with nimh. I believe 13.5 is going to be the motor of choice for lipo corect? Im just torn if i should bother buying a muchmore discharger if im going to switch to lipo
Thanks
I've been running just one battery in 1/12th for the past few weeks. We run on a one hour heat rotation and charging hasn't been and issue if you put the pack on charge first thing after marshalling.

The downside of only one battery is less back to back practice time.
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:09 PM   #31798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CREWMAN View Post
Hey guys i have some lipo questions. I run 17.5 to start off. Now with lipo will all i need is one pack to get me through the race night or will i need two or three lipo packs? Also if i plan on running stock is it even werth using lipo or should i stick with nimh. I believe 13.5 is going to be the motor of choice for lipo corect? Im just torn if i should bother buying a muchmore discharger if im going to switch to lipo
Thanks
AFAIK, lipo and round cells will run in separate classes. I think all the major races this coming season are lipo only. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. Round cells are going the way of the woolly mammoth. The motors are not changing, ie Stock is still 17.5, superstock is still 13.5, regardless of the battery. I personally think 1S lipo/17.5 stock will be the big class this year, but that will vary by track. Lower speeds, closer racing, less tire wear and parts breakage. The 1/12th equvilant of VTA, without the sanctioned hacking. You can buy several 1S lipos for a whole lot less than you'll spend on 4-6 round cell packs and a costmuchmore discharge tray. Also, good luck finding high quality round cells these days.
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:27 PM   #31799
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Hi guys, Special request looking for a DD 3D08 or a 3D12. if anyone has one please let me know. I have a thread in the wanted section, but figured id also mention it direct to the 12th scale guys. Thanks
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Old 08-13-2009, 04:18 PM   #31800
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You guys probably get this all the time but I am looking to start 1/12 and I have a few questions so I can pick a vehicle:

1) What cars will 1S lipo work with without it being a hack job?
2) what cars are easy to fit the brushless motors in (see AE has a new 12R5.1 for this?)
3) What cars are considered "Current" tech, and what are considered old tech?
4) What cars seem good for beginners on 17.5 power and have room to grow?
5. If doing 1S lipo, what all is needed exactly and which manufacturers sell stuff to do it?

I know that specifics like shore rating and setup will be track dependent, but If there are things that are just not ran nowadays that I can avoid now would be great to know like certain types of tires, etc.

Thanks!
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