R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-30-2009, 05:55 AM   #31246
Tech Adept
 
silverfrancis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 119
Default

does anyone know where to find the ae 12r5 conversion kit to a t bar link. I live in australia yet can't find a hong kong website that is selling the conversion kit.
__________________
For Technology news visit: www.technific.com
silverfrancis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 07:34 AM   #31247
Tech Elite
 
micrors4guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Covington, La.
Posts: 3,501
Trader Rating: 49 (98%+)
Send a message via AIM to micrors4guy
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverfrancis View Post
does anyone know where to find the ae 12r5 conversion kit to a t bar link. I live in australia yet can't find a hong kong website that is selling the conversion kit.
www.amainhobbies.com has them.
__________________
Rob Jensen
Thanks to the following companies for their support in 2015: Tekno, Viper, Fierce R/C Solutions
Items f/s: http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/881006-radio-esc-motor-personal-transponder-f-s.html#post14056759
micrors4guy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 10:00 AM   #31248
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Outerlimits View Post
I am having a problem with my diff and the slapmaster bearing. When I tighten the diff I cant get it right, it is either locked up or slips. I am down to turning it a degree at a time witch is hard. Also its smooth when I rebuild it but dosnt last long. Should I have the Bevel Washer in? I do not as of now. Here is how I am preping my diffs. I first start out sanding the rings with 200 grit to get them flat then working my way up to 600 grit. Then I put a little diff lube into each hole and a light smear on the rings.
Reassembly D-ring, Spur, D-Ring ,Wheel Hub, Slapmaster Spacer, thrust washer, nut. The slapmaster spacer rests on the bearing. I then tight lightly and beak in each side at 1/4 throttle. O this is on a 12R5 with the 10R5 b/l conversion. I do have the correct slapmaster 109. I think?

Thank you for any help


Jake
I cruise this thread from time to time, today I notice this. Anyone having trouble with a diff kit of mine, do not hesitate to contact me. My phone number and email is on every header card and I am very responsive.

The thrust market has become a "one size does not fit all" market. So the customers have to know exactly what axle is in the car. I now have 4 versions of thrust kits to cover most manufacturers axles in 12th & 10th scale.

In most cases where the thrust bearing bottoms out on the end of the axle, the delrin spacer is too short for two reasons: it's the wrong spacer for that axle or there is a manufacturing discrepancy in the axle (too long or a glob of epoxy by the threads).

The delrin spacer is the new spring, you no longer need a belleville washer in your diff assembly. My kits come with an anodized black aluminum nut that will seat flat against the spacer, they thread on perpendicular to the axle, and will not move/adjust while in use. The ridge on the spacer is meant to go against the hub bearing and is used to center it on that bearing. You no longer use the inner race of the hub bearing as a thrust. The spacer should never contact the axle.

As a rule, the spacer should be a minimum of .010" or .25mm past the end of the 1/4" axle to achieve proper assembly.

There is also the chance the Associated made a running change to the diff parts that I have not seen yet!

Thanks, Brian
__________________
Stay dialed my friends!
www.slapmastertools.com
Team Roche USA
Team Orca orcharc.com
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 05:40 PM   #31249
Tech Elite
 
chris moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 3,662
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

Brian, what is the usable life span of the delrin spacer? I've had my original unit for some time and it seems to still be working fine but I've wondered just how long it should last.

Thanks
Chris
__________________
Sponsered by:

CMDezigns Paint Works
https://www.facebook.com/pages/CM-Dezigns/259989190822177?ref=hl
chris moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2009, 10:37 PM   #31250
Tech Elite
 
Slapmaster6000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Edmonds, Wash.
Posts: 2,949
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Brian, what is the usable life span of the delrin spacer? I've had my original unit for some time and it seems to still be working fine but I've wondered just how long it should last.

Thanks
Chris
How long do you want to race? I am finding that most of the thrust bearings last about 3 years give or take. The only way I have seen a spacer fail is because it was misplaced on the hub bearing and or over crushed by someone with Popeye arms. Even still, they are pretty resilient.

Some of my diffs (balls & plates) retired with the car on one set for the lifetime of the car. Remember the yellow IRS axles? I could haul it out and use it now, but then someone would wonder where I got the cool yellow axle.

So to be honest, I messed up. Planned obsolesense didn't get factored in!
__________________
Stay dialed my friends!
www.slapmastertools.com
Team Roche USA
Team Orca orcharc.com
Slapmaster6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 06:36 AM   #31251
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dallas, TX.
Posts: 104
Default

Ah, the old yellow fiberglass axle. I still have one of these that uses the rubber O-rings instead of D-rings. I have broken many a graphite axle or bent a titanium axle over the years, but never broke that yellow fiberglass axle.
teamtamale is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 03:03 PM   #31252
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 398
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys,
I'm really new to 12th scale. I'm looking for a starting setup on my L4, I have no idea where to start... Here is a pic of the track, it's small but alot of 180's.







I'm rebuilding it tonight, and I don't know where to even start.

Thanks for the help.

Josh
JoshM20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 03:14 PM   #31253
Tech Master
 
espresso1967's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,100
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

I don't run 1/12 only 1/10 pan cars but a quick search for L4 and I found this, don't know anything about the L4 but at a glance it looks like it has some good info for the beginner and you should at least start with a basic setup and than go from there.


http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?page_id=65
__________________
www.cityofangelstshirts.com
espresso1967 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 03:47 PM   #31254
Tech Master
 
JamesArluck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,232
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JamesArluck
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshM20 View Post
Hey guys,
I'm really new to 12th scale. I'm looking for a starting setup on my L4, I have no idea where to start... Here is a pic of the track, it's small but alot of 180's.

I'm rebuilding it tonight, and I don't know where to even start.

Thanks for the help.

Josh
Front:
.020 front springs, shimmed to take out slop on kingpins
10 deg reactive caster blocks (angled)
1 caster shim on each side of caster block
~3.5mm ride height
Servo angled on blocks
Purple or magenta front tires

Rear:
30wt center shock oil
Olive spring on center shock
1mm pod droop (adjust using center shock length)
soft t-bar, don't use the 3rd spacer between the pod and t-bar
diff lube on dampener pucks
adjust center shock tension so chassis and rear pod are level
~3.5mm ride height
grey or magenta rear tires

That should get you in the ballpark

-James
JamesArluck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2009, 04:20 PM   #31255
Tech Addict
 
evanwest94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 660
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to evanwest94
Default 1/12 body

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=280340577418
evanwest94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2009, 06:29 AM   #31256
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 398
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Ok Got everything done accept these... I'm not sure how to do this and what this means??


Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
Front:
.020 front springs, shimmed to take out slop on kingpins
10 deg reactive caster blocks (angled)
1 caster shim on each side of caster block
~3.5mm ride height
Servo angled on blocks
Purple or magenta front tires

Rear:
30wt center shock oil
Olive spring on center shock
1mm pod droop (adjust using center shock length)How do you do this?
soft t-bar, don't use the 3rd spacer between the pod and t-bar What do you mean by this? I'm not sure what you mean about the third spacer.
diff lube on dampener pucks
adjust center shock tension so chassis and rear pod are level
~3.5mm ride height
grey or magenta rear tires

That should get you in the ballpark

-James
JoshM20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2009, 07:20 AM   #31257
Tech Elite
 
Grenade10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 4,667
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

JoshM20 -

To adjust the pod drop, you lengthen or shorten the ball cups on the center shock. If you lift the car, the back of the bottom motor plate should be about 1mm lower than the main chassis when the shock bottoms out (think full extension).

On the T-Bar there are three holes to mount it to the bottom motor plate. Leave out the center screw and spacer. Most racers refer to this as the 3rd screw, as you HAVE to put the two outside ones in.

Hope this helps
__________________
Darkside, Sweep, BSR, Fantom, IGT Hobbies and IGT8
Byrons Fuel, ProtoForm Bodies & Futaba Radio Gear by Choice
Founding Member of CORRC .... 5280raceway
www.darksidems.com www.igthobbies.com www.IGT8.com
Grenade10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2009, 10:58 AM   #31258
Tech Regular
 
TonyK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 267
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

I have a 12 L3 and the chassis is getting a little beat up. I was wondering if I can use a L4 chassis and would it bolt up with all the L3 stuff.
__________________
A large part of their history is made up of blood and battle. This is not something to shrink away from as a fancier of the breed. Their history should be embraced, understood, and once we have a full understanding, we can control the future.
TonyK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2009, 05:44 PM   #31259
HB
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Holland
Posts: 78
Default

Hi i'm running a Cyclone12X
i got a option for a 2.0mm or a 2.5mm chassis on carpet
i was wondering what the difference are for carpet race
Thanx
HB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2009, 06:10 PM   #31260
Tech Elite
 
Trips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: 360 Speedway
Posts: 2,251
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyK View Post
I have a 12 L3 and the chassis is getting a little beat up. I was wondering if I can use a L4 chassis and would it bolt up with all the L3 stuff.
I know the front end and t-bar will line right up, the crossbrace might have changed between the L3 and L4, I'd have to check and see..

Edit: I just checked the manuals, and the crossbrace and t-bar brace are the same ebtween the L3 and L4. It looks like everything is the same, except the dampener post has changed. Not sure why. Looks like the L4 chassis should work with the L3 parts tho. You might have to buy the L4 dampener post and standoffs, then again you might not.
__________________
MARSHAL!!

Last edited by Trips; 05-02-2009 at 06:48 PM.
Trips is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:15 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0