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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-08-2007, 07:17 PM   #27361
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Whats a good body to use for my first 1/12 scale.
Thanks
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Old 11-08-2007, 07:20 PM   #27362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Novak and LRP looked at this before Mod went to 5 cell and it was deemed impossible to do and even if they could do it other problems would arise.


The voltage regulators in R/C heli put out ~6A max and they need good sized heatsinks (Like the Arizona Regs.) to do that. The max current spike a heli draws with 8 super digital servos working REALLY hard is about 8A.

A stockmotor can pull~20A and spike to 80A in a crash. A mod can pull 45A during a normal race and spike to 125A or more. A voltage regulator to handle
than load would be HUGE.

...and these regultors would need chips to control the precise level of voltage regualtion. This adds cost and complexity.

They would need to be calibrated..guys would swear some regultators would put out more power then others....if you can cailbrate one then you can cheat and modify them...more problems...

Like I said, this has been THOUROUGHLY researched and is a no go.
I didn't realize it had been investigated already....
125A spike, whoah! I could peel anything!!!
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Old 11-08-2007, 07:24 PM   #27363
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what is the correct way to cut the back of the bodies? a Proline LW body broke on me even before it touch the ground
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Old 11-08-2007, 08:16 PM   #27364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CREWMAN View Post
Whats a good body to use for my first 1/12 scale.
Thanks
Information picked up in one theard but don't have the link:

Quote:
Parma Speed 8* - Best for stock and 19 turn, low drag and medium downforce, very stable
Parma Speed 8 HD* - Best for mod, high downforce and medium drag, very stable and planted
Protoform Speed 12* - Best for mod, medium stability, high downforce and a little less drag than Speed 8 HD
Protoform Speed 12b* - Best for stock and 19 turn, Medium stability, good downforce and very low drag.
*Light wieght version uses thinner lexan.
Also available the CRC C-60 Evo-3 LMP, the Parma Zytec 04S and the CEFX C-LMP900, all open cockpit but when they can be used... If any input could be given, that will be nice!
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Old 11-08-2007, 09:18 PM   #27365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootr117 View Post
please do.......I was told to do this to my speedmerchant...
OK, here's a little lesson on cutting down the steering blocks on the old style AE front end.

1. two stock blocks, one with the front tab cut off and a line scribed on the bottom as a cutting guide. I take 1mm off which will allow a 2mm smaller tire to be used on the car. You can do this on a mill or with your dremel, I use a sanding wheel.

2. stock block and cut block ready to install. Make sure both steering blocks are exactly the same thickness or your car will be permanently tweaked.

3. you will have to shorten the kingpin a little on the top or it will hit the wheel (on regular 34mm diameter wheels)

4. You also have to remove a little material from the top front corner of the suspension arm for the same reason.

5. Here's the order in which the parts go together. The two shims on top of the block (in this case the white plastic shim and the metal kingpin shim)have to equal the amount you cut off of the block. EDIT oops! I just noticed that the steering block is upside down in the pic. Don't install it that way! LOL The cut side goes toward the bottom.

continued in the next post

Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 11-08-2007, 09:20 PM   #27366
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6. Back together

7. On the car

Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:20 PM   #27367
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OD - Do you run your steering links like that? You must have some horrible bump toe in. Get some longer ball studs for your spindles so the steering links don't angle down like that.
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Old 11-08-2007, 10:48 PM   #27368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
OD - Do you run your steering links like that? You must have some horrible bump toe in. Get some longer ball studs for your spindles so the steering links don't angle down like that.
I knew somebody was gonna catch that
Its and older car and one I built before I figured out the bump steer thing, I just used it for the tutorial because it had the old school front end on it. I mostly run the servo angled these days anyway
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Old 11-09-2007, 03:14 AM   #27369
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Many thanks OD. I will give it a go.
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Old 11-09-2007, 07:08 AM   #27370
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OD - Nice instruction on the "Old School" front end!

For us who have been around for a few decades, getting these parts to work has been the "Hobby" side of the sport. I still run the old school on a few cars for carpet. Back a few posts I saw the aluminum reinforcement for the arms. That looked much better machined and engineered from what I had built.

I'm not as proficient on the new style, but with the IRS arms, and some of the CRC parts, maybe it's time to play!!
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Old 11-09-2007, 12:24 PM   #27371
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Does anyone know where I can get a new JR 3650, I can't find any anywhere?
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Old 11-09-2007, 12:27 PM   #27372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark barford View Post
Hi Guys, does anyone sell lowered old skool front ends?
Hi I've some NIP lower old skool front for sell...pm..Thanks
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Old 11-09-2007, 12:32 PM   #27373
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Who else besides Novak produces a 19T and stock equivalent brushless motor?

Thanks is advance.
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:30 PM   #27374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
OK, here's a little lesson on cutting down the steering blocks on the old style AE front end.

1. two stock blocks, one with the front tab cut off and a line scribed on the bottom as a cutting guide. I take 1mm off which will allow a 2mm smaller tire to be used on the car. You can do this on a mill or with your dremel, I use a sanding wheel.

2. stock block and cut block ready to install. Make sure both steering blocks are exactly the same thickness or your car will be permanently tweaked.

3. you will have to shorten the kingpin a little on the top or it will hit the wheel (on regular 34mm diameter wheels)

4. You also have to remove a little material from the top front corner of the suspension arm for the same reason.

5. Here's the order in which the parts go together. The two shims on top of the block (in this case the white plastic shim and the metal kingpin shim)have to equal the amount you cut off of the block. EDIT oops! I just noticed that the steering block is upside down in the pic. Don't install it that way! LOL The cut side goes toward the bottom.

continued in the next post

Thanks......off to the mill.........
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:41 PM   #27375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMTK422 View Post
Does anyone know where I can get a new JR 3650, I can't find any anywhere?
Try Horizon Hobby at Horizonhobby.com

They are the only ones who sell JR (they own JR)
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