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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-27-2006, 11:41 PM   #21541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
touring car is fun but handles like a school bus compared to a good 1/12th
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Old 10-28-2006, 07:56 AM   #21542
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Do yourself a favor and put a Roll Over antenna on there....

Quote:
Originally Posted by TFR
Got my 1/12th ready for this winter season, now all I need is time to get to the track...

Can any expert spot anything wrong with my car or the way I set things up? Not sure If I did everything right.

Thanks.
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Old 10-28-2006, 08:03 AM   #21543
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I have a fantom dyno with the dos software I need windows for my laptop got cash to buy a copy
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Old 10-28-2006, 08:35 AM   #21544
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hi im new to 1/12 and im lookin to buy a ae l4 and i was wondering were can u get quality anodizing company who will anodize the parts to purple for me?
thanks for your time
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Old 10-28-2006, 05:49 PM   #21545
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THEIS, JAMES AND LARRY thanks guys very helpful, because with no caster me car push at say 180 deg corners and i was told to use more paragon on the front tyres instead of half way try 3/4 i did that but it help just a little now i will try the caster and see what happen.
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Old 10-28-2006, 07:11 PM   #21546
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Customworksking - Here is the site for the software.

www.deccosoftware.com

You'll like to change. You might also download the motor builders version. It does not do the graphs but it does do lables.
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Old 10-29-2006, 01:29 AM   #21547
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Default diff building

Hi,

I'm quite new to 1/12th driving. I've driven a Corraly SP2 for a while and i'm receiving a CRC R3.2 kit next week.
I know the diff is an important part of the car, and i've found this discription of how to build a diff: http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/20...erentials.html

I like the Blog, only problem is, here in the netherlands we don't have T-Cut. Can anybody tell me what this stuff really is or how i can make the grove in my D-rings?
Also, what do you guys think of this method of building the diff?
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Old 10-29-2006, 02:16 AM   #21548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
Hi,

I'm quite new to 1/12th driving. I've driven a Corraly SP2 for a while and i'm receiving a CRC R3.2 kit next week.
I know the diff is an important part of the car, and i've found this discription of how to build a diff: http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/20...erentials.html

I like the Blog, only problem is, here in the netherlands we don't have T-Cut. Can anybody tell me what this stuff really is or how i can make the grove in my D-rings?
Also, what do you guys think of this method of building the diff?
hey
its just a sort of polishing stuff like commandant and maybe turtle-wax its a lite bit thinner
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Old 10-29-2006, 03:25 AM   #21549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freekthefreak
hey
its just a sort of polishing stuff like commandant and maybe turtle-wax its a lite bit thinner

Ah great. So any polishing stuff is good?
I don't know if i need the grove since i don't have the ceramic balls. Basicly i'll have to change balls regularly i gues... But there cheap so that's oke..


About the slapmaster bearing at the end of the axle. Is that a thruth bearing? Why is it placed there and not as a replacement for the flenshed bearing?
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Old 10-29-2006, 05:22 AM   #21550
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The sanding and abrasive technique will benefit you whether you use quality diff balls or not. As far as diff balls...good diff balls are WELL worth their price as they last almost infinitely longer. I use ceramic-coated balls. Brian, Mr. Slapmaster himself, uses carbide balls. At the very least you want some REALLY hard, really accurate balls like the Niftech pieces. The standard balls like you find in kits or in bulk bins at the hobby shop are not terribly good quality in the first place AND you get to replace them pretty much every time you rebuild the diff. The ceramic or carbide balls may never wear out.


The Slapmaster kit is there to accept side-load (like when you hit a board) rather than have that side-load absorbed by the outer flanged bearing. The CRC axle in the kit you'll receive has a collar that has a thin raised lip which picks up the inner race of that bearing. This allows the diff action to be reasonably smooth without a thrust bearing BUT it means you'll be replacing that outer bearing quite regularly. The Slapmaster thrust bearing kit replaces that CRC collar with a machined delrin collar that has a thin lip that picks up the OUTER race of that bearing. It then replaces the Belleville (cupped/tension) washer with a thrust bearing assembly to create the diff action. This system transmits load to that outer race which is supported by the hub, thus eliminating side-load through the flanged bearing.


Scottrik
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Old 10-29-2006, 05:34 AM   #21551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
The sanding and abrasive technique will benefit you whether you use quality diff balls or not. As far as diff balls...good diff balls are WELL worth their price as they last almost infinitely longer. I use ceramic-coated balls. Brian, Mr. Slapmaster himself, uses carbide balls. At the very least you want some REALLY hard, really accurate balls like the Niftech pieces. The standard balls like you find in kits or in bulk bins at the hobby shop are not terribly good quality in the first place AND you get to replace them pretty much every time you rebuild the diff. The ceramic or carbide balls may never wear out.


The Slapmaster kit is there to accept side-load (like when you hit a board) rather than have that side-load absorbed by the outer flanged bearing. The CRC axle in the kit you'll receive has a collar that has a thin raised lip which picks up the inner race of that bearing. This allows the diff action to be reasonably smooth without a thrust bearing BUT it means you'll be replacing that outer bearing quite regularly. The Slapmaster thrust bearing kit replaces that CRC collar with a machined delrin collar that has a thin lip that picks up the OUTER race of that bearing. It then replaces the Belleville (cupped/tension) washer with a thrust bearing assembly to create the diff action. This system transmits load to that outer race which is supported by the hub, thus eliminating side-load through the flanged bearing.


Scottrik

Ah, great explaination. Thank you for that.
I'll go and order some harder balls then. My CRC distributer here in the netherlands will probably have them, since they also will be delivering the IRS diff plates.
What do you use to create the grove and to sand the diff plates?

I've seen slapmasters site, and his comments in this post. The site is not up, so how do i get a product list of it? Just pm?
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Old 10-29-2006, 07:59 AM   #21552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
Ah, great explaination. Thank you for that.
I'll go and order some harder balls then. My CRC distributer here in the netherlands will probably have them, since they also will be delivering the IRS diff plates.
What do you use to create the grove and to sand the diff plates?

I've seen slapmasters site, and his comments in this post. The site is not up, so how do i get a product list of it? Just pm?
Yes, a PM will work, There is a thread on this forum, search for Slapmaster.

You won't be dissapointed
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Old 10-29-2006, 08:09 AM   #21553
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Default slapmaster web site

http://www.slapmastertools.com/
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Old 10-29-2006, 08:22 AM   #21554
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You guys are great. I am going to take the rest of the day off

..... and work on the website!
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Old 10-29-2006, 08:25 AM   #21555
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Whoha! Great responce guys!
Thanks for all the help!
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