Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

Stock box setup is good... all depend on track, grip level, tire wear, etc. But the box setup on the IFS car is good. You'll find it easy to drive.

woodys3b

iTrader: (1)

I have been running mine in VTA for a couple of weeks now and I feel that I have finally got the thing to handle half way decent. My setup will be different than your because I have TRF shocks on mine. The best advice I can give you is to be patient. The VTA tires take a long time to break in. If you start making all kinds of chassis adjustments right away, you will be chasing you tail. If you can practice on the track before you race, you should be able to break the tires in in a few hours. After mine settled in, I found that my car was way tight. Had to soften up the front suspension to get it to turn in off throttle. If you are going to race it, you will need to buy a spring set for the shocks. Better yet, the TRF shocks are very good and probably the best thing you can do for your TA-05. The springs that come with the kit are very stiff.

Good luck and have fun!

Andy

BigRon

iTrader: (22)

Thanks. I used to have one of the original version 05's when they first came out about 4 or 5 years ago. I was impressed with that car then and I'm now impressed with this car. I ran the car today on a tight little carpet track with med traction. I ran the box setup with the HPI VTA spec tires and the HPI 200mm Camero body. They only adjustment I made before running it was insure that the ride height was at no less that 5mm (track rule). Using the Tamiya Black can motor and the supplied 20t pinion, the car was VERY smooth. Great acceleration and speed. I only had 3 problems with the car today. Using the box setup* I had no rear end grip. I found myself finessing the car around the track the whole time. After toying around with the rear end (shock locations/camber link position) the rear end started to get some grip (very little, some) but then the front end started to push. Next I had a problem with the rear right A arm kept popping out of the suspension mounts. Then I had the front diff screw back out on me twice. Other than that, the car felt great. When putting the kit together I used Losi 37.5 shock oil instead of the kit 400 oil(no extra 400 oil). That oil combined with the 3 hole pistions and the kit (white w/ yellow dot) springs has proven to be too soft. Which "may" be reason for the lack of rear grip. As far as upgrades go, I will definitely be getting the universal shaft kits, aluminum suspension mounts and possibly a front spool.

BigRon

iTrader: (22)

Andy, thanks for the info. I purchased the kit with the upgrade package which included the TRF shocks. My tires may be broken in then. Probably why the car started to push like a tank at the end of the day.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Copy that, but I heard it from the man himself today (FMW) that this is allowed

btw, your sig is one of my all-time favorites

C5R01

iTrader: (1)

Good , now I can get milling. I heard that saying alongtime ago when a company I worked for ran SCCA World Challenge

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

My stock tires are nearly shot too... I noticed that some of the rims have some serious cracks, and the foams inside started to bunch up to one side so on some of my tires, there's a thin "rib" forming towards the inner edge since the foams are bunching up on the outside...

I think it's time to slap on some TOP tires on dish rims with some molded inserts...

Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

The box wheels and tires are for bashing not racing.

Tamiya dish wheels with hard insert. And Type-A tires for indoor carpet.

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

I have an IFS-R with alloy bulkheads and a few other upgraded parts. If I wanted to convert it to a Ver.2 chassis what parts would I need to buy?

I'm thinking just the chassis and the motor mount, but I'm not sure???

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

you will also need the front and rear chassis-to-bulkhead braces, and steering-rack/bellcrank pieces..

the hinge-pin blocks are also different on the ver.2 (split bridge for the blocks that cross over the belt) but i think you might (maybe) be able to use the regular bridge blocks...

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

Thanks for the info. I hadn't considered those other parts. I imagine that's probably more than $100 in parts.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, your best bet would probably to get an entire Version 2 kit (the non-upgrade pack ones) and just transfer over your -R parts onto it...

But even after you get a Version 2 kit, I highly recommend getting the alloy Tamiya hingepin blocks for front and rear as well as a set of the fluorine-coated pivot balls...

The "fluorine-coated" pivot balls are actually metal! Had no idea. That's why it was well worth the price I paid for it. DO NOT BUY THE 3-Racing pivot balls, they are not the same dimensions...

Skitee

This is what you'll need to do a conversion from an IFS-R to a Ver.II

1 x 54095 - TB-03 Racing Steering Set
2 x 53851 - Titanium Coated 46mm Suspension Shaft
1 x 51253 - TB Evolution 5 "B" Parts
1 x 10115525 - TA-05 Ver.II "K" Parts
1 x 10115527 - TA-05 Ver.II "M" Parts
1 x 19115256 - TA-05 Ver.II Chassis
1 x 15405048 - TA-05 Ver.II Motor Mount
1 x 13454456 - TA-05 Ver.II Center Shaft
1 x 13454445 - TA-05 Ver.II Spur Gear Holder
1 x 54174 - TA-05 Ver.II SeperateSuspension Mounts (1C/1XC)
1 x 54172 - TA-05 Ver.II SeperateSuspension Mounts (1A/1XA)

If you want to complete the Ver.II conversion fully from a standard IFS then you'll need these parts too. It may actually be more cost effective to buy the Ver.II kit.

1 x 51092 - 46mm Swing Shaft
1 x 53742 - 46mm Swing Shaft - Lightweight
2 x 54076 - TB-03 Wheel Axles
2 x 53988 - TRF501X Ball Differential Pulley
2 x 51287 - Large Ball Diff Plate
1 x 53989 - TRF501X Center Pulley
2 x 54170 - TA-05 Ver.II Low Friction Drive Blet
2 x 53928 - Short Reversible Suspension Arm
1 x 54031 - TA05-IFS Carbon Reinforced F Parts - H Carrier (4deg)
1 x 51332 - TRF416 Front Upright
1 x 51333 - TRF416 Rear Upright
8 x 1050 bearings

breyton

iTrader: (3)

Is the Ver. II really better than the standard TA05 and TA05-IFS? I'm looking to get my first belt drive car. Local price of the standard TA05 is equivalent to US$131, TA05-IFS is $149 and the Ver. II is $185. Is the V2 worth the $55 price difference? What upgrades should I be getting to set it up for 13.5 racing? Thanks

tiko

iTrader: (35)

Hey guys, what is a must have hop-up for the TA-05 Ver2 chassis not counting the thing that already come with the kit.

Thanks