288LikesTamiya mini cooper
07-31-2015, 08:59 PM
Just a manufacturer preference. Nothing more.
08-01-2015, 10:16 AM
I think I'm going to file down the aluminum post on the servo wire side to push the servo forward another 1mm for steering rod clearance, and remove that metal decal per your recommendation.
M05newbie- Unless you're getting an aftermarket servo saver, stay away from Hitec because they are a spline 24 size Tamiya does not offer on their servo saver.
08-01-2015, 10:40 AM
The servo saver removed the decal, after which I spaced it so it wouldn't happen again.
08-01-2015, 02:47 PM
Tech Adept
Here are some pictures of my build of the MF01X (the Suzuki Jimny 4WD M-Chassis) of last Friday.
(you can see the options for high & low setup here)
(the driveshaft is VERY heavy, a lot of weight can be removed if an aluminium version would come available)
(the body in Marlboro colours)
Sorry for the long post.
The dampers are the only thing that we've changed, together with a smaller pinion since the default speed is way too much for this body (even when setup extremely low) and we're organising a race on the indoor track of The-Border.com with the M05 2WD & a separate heat for the MF01X 4WD cars.
All MF01X's have to use the Jimny body because the high body makes it a very fun handicap to drive with & makes for a great race.
(you can see the options for high & low setup here)
(the driveshaft is VERY heavy, a lot of weight can be removed if an aluminium version would come available)
(the body in Marlboro colours)
Sorry for the long post.
The dampers are the only thing that we've changed, together with a smaller pinion since the default speed is way too much for this body (even when setup extremely low) and we're organising a race on the indoor track of The-Border.com with the M05 2WD & a separate heat for the MF01X 4WD cars.
All MF01X's have to use the Jimny body because the high body makes it a very fun handicap to drive with & makes for a great race.
08-01-2015, 03:48 PM
Cool. It's so I I,but not at the same time!
I'm curious: Does anyone else use these holes in the rear uprights to pin in the stainless suspension shafts? I use them, as it eliminates the need for E clips. Grub screw or short m3 screw and you're done.
I'm curious: Does anyone else use these holes in the rear uprights to pin in the stainless suspension shafts? I use them, as it eliminates the need for E clips. Grub screw or short m3 screw and you're done.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 08-12-2017 at 07:34 PM.
08-01-2015, 09:12 PM
You can always send the driveshaft to ewippler so he can make a carbon fiber version that will be lighter than any aluminum ones....
08-02-2015, 01:06 AM
Tech Adept
hi everyone
just want to confirm 1 issue.
the ball thrust bearing that came with the 53267 ta03 ball diffs is the same bearing as the 53136 one-piece thrust bearing?
just want to confirm 1 issue.
the ball thrust bearing that came with the 53267 ta03 ball diffs is the same bearing as the 53136 one-piece thrust bearing?
08-02-2015, 11:17 AM
[QUOTE=Thaan;14120820]Here are some pictures of my build of the MF01X (the Suzuki Jimny 4WD M-Chassis) of last Friday.
(the body in Marlboro colours)
Nice colour scheme !
I raced my new v2 chassis today and it was really different. It understeered really badly so I put soft springs on the back which made no difference. Rally blocks on the back worked much better, but the car still has a bit of snap oversteer.
(the body in Marlboro colours)
Nice colour scheme !
I raced my new v2 chassis today and it was really different. It understeered really badly so I put soft springs on the back which made no difference. Rally blocks on the back worked much better, but the car still has a bit of snap oversteer.
08-02-2015, 01:33 PM
08-02-2015, 03:25 PM
Tech Adept
thanks
I ended up buying the extra bearing because the other site recommended getting a replacement bearing
08-02-2015, 07:40 PM
I fixed mine too, thanks for your servo's suggestion.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...-after-top.jpg
Also ground the servo mount post to push the servo forward.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...avox-after.jpg
Car runs great!!
08-02-2015, 07:48 PM
If you have access to an Extra Fine Point Sharpie marker, I draw door lines and other parting lines on my bodies to make it a notch more realistic.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...abre-final.jpg
Here's the pen I use. It's a water based permanent marker. You can use motor spray as eraser if you screw up. Will not wash off or smear.
http://www.sharpie.com/en-US/extra-f...er-sp-00008--1
08-03-2015, 02:51 AM
Tech Adept
nvm. got it sorted out
Last edited by novaris; 08-03-2015 at 05:57 AM.
08-03-2015, 08:23 AM
mf-01x
can someone tell me what the intended purpose of this chassis is? Is it a M chassis specific rally car? It can't be intended to compete against the rest of the M platforms - the final drive alone will see to that.
At least it looks like you can use the 3Racing gear diff in the front.
At least it looks like you can use the 3Racing gear diff in the front.
08-03-2015, 08:38 AM
can someone tell me what the intended purpose of this chassis is? Is it a M chassis specific rally car? It can't be intended to compete against the rest of the M platforms - the final drive alone will see to that.
At least it looks like you can use the 3Racing gear diff in the front.
At least it looks like you can use the 3Racing gear diff in the front.
Now if you've seen some of the small apartments in Japan, I would probably do a 1:12 crawler instead.
At least then you can have some fun in like a one tatami space area. For me, I supposed if I do get one, it will be like a rally car?
Use maybe a Subaru STI body or something if they release them down the road..? When I first saw this chassis, it reminded me of my CC01, but just smaller.