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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 08-09-2015, 01:58 AM
  #25156  
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Originally Posted by Team_Krusty
Maybe upgrade to the clear kit shocks

Simon


It was great to see some more minis on the track today.

Shocks are sorted for now. I just threw some clear o-rings in for now and will get the x-rings when I order a new chassis to replace my cracked one.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:36 AM
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Maybe slight shimming might help too, on your X-rings.
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Old 08-09-2015, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by miha
shocks are not to short.it's the oil vol.
There is plenty of damping, and unlike the clear CVA build calling out spacers inside which take up volume for limiting extension, there is none installed.

Want to reliterate that my issue was with the car setting to work with the 54000's characteristic. This has been resolved.
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Old 08-09-2015, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
You as well, Mike. Great fun today. I ended up at about 40* timing. It was probably a bit much. The motor is a Reedy Sonic with a torque rotor. Weirdest thing was it wasn't any hotter than my Orca. It was about 145f after each heat. I've never destroyed tires so quickly! No tread left and the inserts came unglued and bunched up. Fun!
Ok u said the inserts came unglued? When mounting a tire....do u glue the inserts or just stuff them in. I stuffed the insert in made it true around the inside of the tire and then made sure the beads were flush with the rim lip and seated nicely. Then used the super glue while gently pulling the bead back and letting it run down the bead and pressing the bead back into the rim and making sure the bead was sitting flush before the glue dried. Is this procedure correct??

And what is a torque rotor jim?? Or is that the brand or style.or something?

Last edited by M05 newbie; 08-09-2015 at 06:28 AM.
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Old 08-09-2015, 06:26 AM
  #25160  
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Ok so instead of getting a brushless this year. I was looking at the tamiya sport tuned motor for now. It's cheap and swaps right in and is apparently more efficient than the stock silver can 540 J. So does anyone have any experience with this??? I felt yesterday that the motor I have is a little lagged (stock silver can).....might be starting to wear down. The info is on the link here...
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-53068-r...cPath=1560_948
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Old 08-09-2015, 07:42 AM
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Yes, i glue the inserts into a ring before installing. It usually stops them form bunching up. You are gluing your tires correctly. I used to go through a much more extensive tire building ritual, until I realized the tires were wearing out in less time than it took to build them. S Grips just ain't the same anymore.

You can buy different rotors for some motors that alter the performance. Some for speed, some for torque

Last edited by monkeyracing; 08-09-2015 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:18 AM
  #25162  
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Newbie you'll have fun with the sport tuned motor. They are faster than a stock silver can
We run the torque tuned motor in the TCS Spec Class that I'm in (my driver skills still
Qualify me as a novice) lol and the torque is slightly slower than the sport tuned
I'm not sure what the equalvant turns ration is but it is faster than a silver can!
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:15 AM
  #25163  
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Hello,

I just picked up a used M05 chassis kit and a TBG VW Bus body which says it is for M05 however the chassis is too long. Is there a way to shorten it that I am not seeing..
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:25 AM
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Hey guys....how many amps can the stock m05 esc handle?? Was looking at a 167 watt motor 30000 rpm and draws 22.5 amps. I have a lipo at 7.4 volts. Just want to make sure I don't have to change the ESC or else I'll just stick with the sport tuned tamiya motor.
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:29 AM
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Hi, I just bought new M-05, there is a 'block' with X on back of the chassis, what are they for? older m05 dont have it.

and which shock i should get, bigbore or 54000 i understand springs and all but not piston fit on big bores? im racing on carpet track on wooden gym floor so its little bumpy....
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by IrishRacer1976
I just picked up a used M05 chassis kit and a TBG VW Bus body which says it is for M05 however the chassis is too long. Is there a way to shorten it that I am not seeing..
Originally Posted by Vrooom
Hi, I just bought new M-05, there is a 'block' with X on back of the chassis, what are they for?

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/58593.pdf
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Old 08-09-2015, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by IrishRacer1976
Hello,

I just picked up a used M05 chassis kit and a TBG VW Bus body which says it is for M05 however the chassis is too long. Is there a way to shorten it that I am not seeing..
There are three different wheelbases you can run for the M-05. Short- 210mm, medium- 225mm and long- 238mm. If you download a copy of the manual you will see it is fairly easy to change the wheelbase by changing the rear suspension arm configuration. Long wheel base require a few different parts to the short/mid, but they are all included in the kit.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:04 PM
  #25168  
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Measured some running weights today. I don't race (TCS 1300g minimum) so these are what I run with. You can see how light the M-Four is.

1224g M03
1344g M05 (NiCd) - bone stock chassis less CVA Super Mini's and Yellow/Red springs.
1177g SabreFD Mini 1177g
1265g CupRacer
1078g M-Four
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:30 PM
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Your M-four weighs about the same as my m03, and I got a heavy Lrp v7.1 with a big blue capacitor + novak rx glitch buster....
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
Your M-four weighs about the same as my m03, and I got a heavy Lrp v7.1 with a big blue capacitor + novak rx glitch buster....
That's cool. I added weights to my M03 to get more grip off the line and coming out of turns. It is basically using all stock parts and a few hopups like ball diffs and CVA's.. Was surprised to see the M05 being heavier.
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