Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#5041
oh. But if it protecs the chassis and iit wont have a negative result, I'm doing it
#5042
It will definately help protect the bottom deck.
#5043
I want to get it done before I build the chassis, but I work and cant get to the damn plastic place, maybe I should put a piece of bullet proof glass under it
#5044
I decided to stop being a 13.5 chicken and run an 8.5 on our somewhat small carpet track. Man, this car is easy to drive with a spool! My timing will take some work, but taming more power doesn't seem quite so scary.
I tried a tip I picked up from Jilles to run a .5mm shim under the front rear block, which I believe gives the car anti-dive? Anyway, that made a surprisingly big difference, and really helped the car get the weight forward when entering the turns, and yielding enough steering without having to rely on more dual rate. I'd like to try C/C up front next.
I tried a tip I picked up from Jilles to run a .5mm shim under the front rear block, which I believe gives the car anti-dive? Anyway, that made a surprisingly big difference, and really helped the car get the weight forward when entering the turns, and yielding enough steering without having to rely on more dual rate. I'd like to try C/C up front next.
#5045
Tech Adept
I decided to stop being a 13.5 chicken and run an 8.5 on our somewhat small carpet track. Man, this car is easy to drive with a spool! My timing will take some work, but taming more power doesn't seem quite so scary.
I tried a tip I picked up from Jilles to run a .5mm shim under the front rear block, which I believe gives the car anti-dive? Anyway, that made a surprisingly big difference, and really helped the car get the weight forward when entering the turns, and yielding enough steering without having to rely on more dual rate. I'd like to try C/C up front next.
I tried a tip I picked up from Jilles to run a .5mm shim under the front rear block, which I believe gives the car anti-dive? Anyway, that made a surprisingly big difference, and really helped the car get the weight forward when entering the turns, and yielding enough steering without having to rely on more dual rate. I'd like to try C/C up front next.
#5047
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I decided to stop being a 13.5 chicken and run an 8.5 on our somewhat small carpet track. Man, this car is easy to drive with a spool! My timing will take some work, but taming more power doesn't seem quite so scary.
I tried a tip I picked up from Jilles to run a .5mm shim under the front rear block, which I believe gives the car anti-dive? Anyway, that made a surprisingly big difference, and really helped the car get the weight forward when entering the turns, and yielding enough steering without having to rely on more dual rate. I'd like to try C/C up front next.
I tried a tip I picked up from Jilles to run a .5mm shim under the front rear block, which I believe gives the car anti-dive? Anyway, that made a surprisingly big difference, and really helped the car get the weight forward when entering the turns, and yielding enough steering without having to rely on more dual rate. I'd like to try C/C up front next.
HiH
Ed
#5049
Hi Ed, would you mind please explaining each pic? If its supposed to be common sense, sorry I dont understand
#5051
Thanks for all of your help Ed!
#5052
#5053
it explains everything in there....
even the secret to being fast
#5054
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Front of the car is assumed to be on the right. The angled arrow underneath represents the force being placed onto the suspension arm when the weight transfers forward.
So in the left hand pic, the arm isn't taking any load at all, and infact only the shock takes the loading. This means that more weight will transfer forward, as in effect the front supension will be softer.
This also increases castor, so less turn in, but more mid-corner.
The mid setting would have the arm taking some of the loading (the little arrow going along it). As such this will stiffen the action a bit, and reduce the castor. The reason it stiffens the action is that a suspension arm won't deflect as much as a shock will
The Anti-Dive setting, well, devlops that further, with more of the arm taking the loading, and as such it stiffens the suspension. Also reduces castor so more initial steering. So in effect, you'll have less weight transfer forward (so good braking stability), but also better inital steering.
HiH
Ed
#5055