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Old 04-10-2009, 04:32 PM
  #5071  
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Actually I run anti-dive on a lot of my setups, it really helps get the car into the corners harder, but makes the car harder to drive and more twitchy feeling. Once you get it set up right it can cut down the laptimes a little bit on decent grip med to tight asphalt tracks.
+1 for anti-dive. I'll use it all the time now I've got it working
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:10 AM
  #5072  
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster
Actually I run anti-dive on a lot of my setups, it really helps get the car into the corners harder, but makes the car harder to drive and more twitchy feeling. Once you get it set up right it can cut down the laptimes a little bit on decent grip med to tight asphalt tracks.
Ok so you comprimised ... Y didnt you just use the 2 degree caster blocks?
please remember I'm dyslexic....
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Old 04-11-2009, 09:04 AM
  #5073  
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The anti-dive change only changes the castor by less than a degree... and also promotes the other changes mentioned (less weight transfer forward).

Changing the castor blocks just changes the castor... that's it
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:01 AM
  #5074  
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Originally Posted by bigkoitat
I ran a 3.5 before on my older car at DHW but only had a one-way at the time so it was alot harder without brakes and proper set-up. I'm going to give it a try next race now that I have brakes and proper set-up. That La Mirada track sounds awsome!! Do they still have practice at Tamiya on Saturdays?
Tamiya is open for free on every Sat, they get the track set up by around 9am, it's not too bad of a drive from San Diego, honestly the track is worth it...
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:21 AM
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I just have to get some Tamiya tirs and a bodie. I been up there back in 03' for practice
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Old 04-11-2009, 04:00 PM
  #5076  
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so what is the better car ??

the TRF416 or the world edition ??

i'm looking for an upgrade from my "old" TRF415MSXX MRE

think it is time for the old boy the hang up his droop screws

i race outdoors on a fast flowing smooth tarmac track

AND do lipos fit without modifications ??
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Old 04-11-2009, 04:30 PM
  #5077  
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If liked the 415 MSXX-MRE than you'll love the 416WE I raced both cars for about 3 months and have to say the 416 is easier to drive. I run the Orion 5000s with no mods either. Not saying the 415 is a bad car but if you want to upgrade than go with the 416.
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Old 04-11-2009, 04:33 PM
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Since the rear of the front blocks has a spacer under it already, how do I know exactly how much anti-dive it has? I'm running a 3mm spacer under the flipped over block, and none under the front front block. Does anyone run more than three mm? because the block is very close to the pulley on mine already.

thanks!
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Old 04-11-2009, 09:58 PM
  #5079  
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Originally Posted by bigkoitat
If liked the 415 MSXX-MRE than you'll love the 416WE I raced both cars for about 3 months and have to say the 416 is easier to drive. I run the Orion 5000s with no mods either. Not saying the 415 is a bad car but if you want to upgrade than go with the 416.
I have to agree, I've had my 416 for just over a year, but I just (this weekend) got ahold of the stuff I needed to convert it to WE spec(the short suspension arms, new top deck, new belts, new shocks, all but the lower deck & spool, & I don't really feel I need those right now on the carpet tracks I'm racing on), & just adding to new top deck, shocks & belts made a real difference for me, car DEFINITELY picked up more rear grip & seemed to have more overall grip(actually made it push at first, but going to a softer front & firmer rear spring balanced it out nicely), & its path control & transitional handling feel VERY good(even better than before, & it was certainly no slouch in that department before the upgrades). I'd STRONGLY reccommend getting one, you will NOT be disappointed....
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:35 PM
  #5080  
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Originally Posted by bigkoitat
I just have to get some Tamiya tirs and a bodie. I been up there back in 03' for practice
For practice you can run whatever tires and body that you want, it's only for the TCS racing that you have to run all Tamiya products.
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Tremor24
Since the rear of the front blocks has a spacer under it already, how do I know exactly how much anti-dive it has? I'm running a 3mm spacer under the flipped over block, and none under the front front block. Does anyone run more than three mm? because the block is very close to the pulley on mine already.

thanks!
I don't have my car right here with me to look at, nor do I remember what the kit comes with under that block, but the kit settings will put you at 0 degrees. If you add shims under the rear block, you will be adding anti-dive, however if you go with a fewer amount of shims there, it will essentially lower the arm mounting position as well as add kick up to the front end. For kick up we generally add shims under the front block, rather than lower the rear.
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Old 04-11-2009, 11:21 PM
  #5082  
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A 3mm spacer is standard under the 1C front end/back block (upside down one). Adding .5mm adds "anti-dive".
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Old 04-12-2009, 06:08 AM
  #5083  
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Originally Posted by CraigM
+1 for anti-dive. I'll use it all the time now I've got it working
Originally Posted by TryHard
The anti-dive change only changes the castor by less than a degree... and also promotes the other changes mentioned (less weight transfer forward).

Changing the castor blocks just changes the castor... that's it
You guys must run outside on the tarmack. I've got so much steering its stupid! (carpet)
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:16 AM
  #5084  
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what is the differances between the TRF416 and the World Edition ??
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:23 AM
  #5085  
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1
what is the differances between the TRF416 and the World Edition ??
Scroll back a couple hundred pages . Its all there somewhere.
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