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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 04-07-2009, 11:48 PM
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oh. But if it protecs the chassis and iit wont have a negative result, I'm doing it
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:53 PM
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It will definately help protect the bottom deck.
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:58 PM
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I want to get it done before I build the chassis, but I work and cant get to the damn plastic place, maybe I should put a piece of bullet proof glass under it
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Old 04-08-2009, 05:50 AM
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I decided to stop being a 13.5 chicken and run an 8.5 on our somewhat small carpet track. Man, this car is easy to drive with a spool! My timing will take some work, but taming more power doesn't seem quite so scary.

I tried a tip I picked up from Jilles to run a .5mm shim under the front rear block, which I believe gives the car anti-dive? Anyway, that made a surprisingly big difference, and really helped the car get the weight forward when entering the turns, and yielding enough steering without having to rely on more dual rate. I'd like to try C/C up front next.
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam? View Post
I decided to stop being a 13.5 chicken and run an 8.5 on our somewhat small carpet track. Man, this car is easy to drive with a spool! My timing will take some work, but taming more power doesn't seem quite so scary.

I tried a tip I picked up from Jilles to run a .5mm shim under the front rear block, which I believe gives the car anti-dive? Anyway, that made a surprisingly big difference, and really helped the car get the weight forward when entering the turns, and yielding enough steering without having to rely on more dual rate. I'd like to try C/C up front next.
what does the c/c do, will it alter the track width?
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Old 04-08-2009, 07:06 AM
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Ya it'll narrow the front (if you running the 1d - 1d?), and add a bit more steering, especially for a small track, I'm running 1b in the rear front and 1c in the front front, with 1/2 degree front toe out, good combination as well!
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam? View Post
I decided to stop being a 13.5 chicken and run an 8.5 on our somewhat small carpet track. Man, this car is easy to drive with a spool! My timing will take some work, but taming more power doesn't seem quite so scary.

I tried a tip I picked up from Jilles to run a .5mm shim under the front rear block, which I believe gives the car anti-dive? Anyway, that made a surprisingly big difference, and really helped the car get the weight forward when entering the turns, and yielding enough steering without having to rely on more dual rate. I'd like to try C/C up front next.
That adds anti-dive, and also reduces castor. The reduced castor is the bit that helps entering the turns... as the Anti-dive helps to resist weight transfer forward, as the arms take some of the suspension loading as the picture below shows...


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Old 04-08-2009, 11:10 AM
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Actually isn't it anti-squat since it is on the rear? Though I guess "front rear" has two meanings. Is it the front piece of the rear of the car of the rear piece on the front of the car?
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Old 04-08-2009, 11:15 AM
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Hi Ed, would you mind please explaining each pic? If its supposed to be common sense, sorry I dont understand
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Old 04-08-2009, 11:17 AM
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Ed, is your picture assuming the front of the car is to the left or right? if its to the left then it is backwards.
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Old 04-08-2009, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
That adds anti-dive, and also reduces castor. The reduced castor is the bit that helps entering the turns... as the Anti-dive helps to resist weight transfer forward, as the arms take some of the suspension loading as the picture below shows...


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Ed
Since I have never messed with the anti-squat/dive, could you go over what each change does front and rear? I.E. shim under the front, front block...while a shim under the front rear block....

Thanks for all of your help Ed!
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Old 04-08-2009, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sagejyoung View Post
what does the c/c do, will it alter the track width?
now u see why i was asking about the mouting blocks..

good look at that site and see what it says about each block size...
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Old 04-08-2009, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by CarKing View Post
Since I have never messed with the anti-squat/dive, could you go over what each change does front and rear? I.E. shim under the front, front block...while a shim under the front rear block....

Thanks for all of your help Ed!
Chaps.. one of the best sources for setup info is the xray/hudy setup manual. it can be d/led from the xray site..

it explains everything in there....

even the secret to being fast
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Old 04-08-2009, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CarKing View Post
Since I have never messed with the anti-squat/dive, could you go over what each change does front and rear? I.E. shim under the front, front block...while a shim under the front rear block....

Thanks for all of your help Ed!
haha... ok here we go.

Front of the car is assumed to be on the right. The angled arrow underneath represents the force being placed onto the suspension arm when the weight transfers forward.

So in the left hand pic, the arm isn't taking any load at all, and infact only the shock takes the loading. This means that more weight will transfer forward, as in effect the front supension will be softer.
This also increases castor, so less turn in, but more mid-corner.

The mid setting would have the arm taking some of the loading (the little arrow going along it). As such this will stiffen the action a bit, and reduce the castor. The reason it stiffens the action is that a suspension arm won't deflect as much as a shock will

The Anti-Dive setting, well, devlops that further, with more of the arm taking the loading, and as such it stiffens the suspension. Also reduces castor so more initial steering. So in effect, you'll have less weight transfer forward (so good braking stability), but also better inital steering.

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Old 04-08-2009, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 1rcracer View Post
now u see why i was asking about the mounting blocks..

go look at that site and see what it says about each block size...
YOH thats some bad spelling....
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