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Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-12-2016, 06:34 PM
  #3166  
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What exact problem ya seeing? I run mod with all gears in , and 17.5 with only 2. No issues what so ever. I run on carpet and turf.
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Old 09-12-2016, 07:51 PM
  #3167  
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Which D Mount is everyone upgrading to for the B6D with laydown?
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Old 09-12-2016, 07:55 PM
  #3168  
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Originally Posted by microjam
Which D Mount is everyone upgrading to for the B6D with laydown?
This is the only one I know of - I imagine brass will also be available at some point:



https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...m_arm_mount_d/
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Old 09-12-2016, 08:24 PM
  #3169  
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Correct. That is the only D Mount available at this time. 3 C mounts, The aluminum version that comes with the car as well as the 12g and 25g brass versions.

Last edited by Matt Trimmings; 09-12-2016 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:00 PM
  #3170  
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anyone running yatabe springs on their b6 on carpet? If so which one please.
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:03 PM
  #3171  
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Originally Posted by gearit
anyone running yatabe springs on their b6 on carpet? If so which one please.
Yes red/yellow front and orange/green rear.
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:15 PM
  #3172  
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are you running 17.5 or mod?
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:24 PM
  #3173  
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Originally Posted by gearit
are you running 17.5 or mod?
Mod.
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:27 PM
  #3174  
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:29 PM
  #3175  
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Old 09-12-2016, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Correct. That is the only D Mount available at this time. 3 C mounts, The aluminum version that comes with the car as well as the 12g and 25g brass versions.
So B6D + laydown, everyone is getting the brass D Mount (12g I'm guessing)?

What would be the next obvious parts to buy for mostly clay tracks, or watered down dirt? I'm running stock so will probably get a slipper eliminator when my driving gets better..

What about the rear hex screws?

Is there anything else besides rear shock tower that needs to be beefed up for reliability/performance?
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Old 09-12-2016, 10:26 PM
  #3177  
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If you're running stock, the MIP aluminum pucks system is a popular upgrade to lighten the drive train. But ultimately you're money will be best spent and see better results with good tires and track time. All the hopups in the world won't compensate for the wrong tires in terms of setup and track time to tune and get comfortable with the car will yield better lap times as well.
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Old 09-12-2016, 10:42 PM
  #3178  
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Agreed Chris, but sometimes I need to up an online order to get a discount/free shipping, so I actually need to buy more stuff..
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Old 09-12-2016, 11:02 PM
  #3179  
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Buy more tires........ especially in indoor/clay tracks. I have several pairs of the same tire with varying amounts of tread to tune for different track conditions. Really does make a significant difference. I would also suggest buying replacement diff and transmission parts. On clay tracks especially since the outdrives and drive pins wear faster, which will negatively effect handling. I see a lot of cars with hundreds of dollars in hopups, with sloppy suspension parts and worn out drivetrains. My point is to not get caught up in the hopup game. Tires and keeping your car fresh will do so much more for you.
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Old 09-13-2016, 12:43 AM
  #3180  
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Thank you Chris. How often do you replace your diff and tranny or suspension? (for the B6D+laydown)
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