Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated B6 & B6D thread >

Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree649Likes

Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-19-2016, 02:26 PM
  #1756  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Eastvale, CA
Posts: 91
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
I would start with shocks in the rear....make sure to get the brass C mount too, it is probably a good idea to pick up the heavier brass c mount as well. I know some guys were running the 12g version and still adding weight next to it. Hartson was running shocks in front over the weekend but....I doubt any of us are at that level.
Is this because there is too much steering?

We club race tomorrow night at LRH, and I have the rear shocks set up on the front of the arm currently. Really won't have much time to practice with it before racing starts. Just running 17.5 Blinky, wonder if I should change them to the back. Don't have any weights either except for battery weights (for now). Before paint I was around 1485 grams last night I think with a small shorty in there.
40yoCaliRacer is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 02:27 PM
  #1757  
Suspended
iTrader: (61)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,121
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Shocks on the front of the rear arm means more rotation in the corners.
Socket is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 02:27 PM
  #1758  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 6,272
Trader Rating: 170 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 40yoCaliRacer
Is this because there is too much steering?

We club race tomorrow night at LRH, and I have the rear shocks set up on the front of the arm currently. Really won't have much time to practice with it before racing starts. Just running 17.5 Blinky, wonder if I should change them to the back. Don't have any weights either except for battery weights (for now). Before paint I was around 1485 grams last night I think with a small shorty in there.
Because of the lack of weight over the rear end. I'd move them to behind the arms.
Matt Trimmings is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 04:56 PM
  #1759  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
 
bru00z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Australia
Posts: 343
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
what are your corner weight numbers?
I dont mind sharing

B6D with AE Ti screws and Brass c.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-2016-07-09-12.29.54.jpg   Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-2016-07-09-12.46.32.jpg  
bru00z is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 05:05 PM
  #1760  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
aeRayls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,257
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by man1ac
For our tracks the 35/30 setup is a good starting point for any car (B5 and B5m so far)...
How much reduced weight we are talking about compared to a B5m FL (and what does it mean?)

Your suggestions seems way way more softer than what I plan to do and kinda know....
My B6 is much lighter than my B5MFL that I setup for outdoors only. The b5 had a 4 gear and 25g brass C, a heavier alum front bulkhead. Plus the b6 weighs an easy 25-30? Less out of the kit.
A lighter car will always need a lighter shock package. The b6 designs makes way more grip front and rear though!
The 1 outdoor track I ran has zero clay in it. It's very soft black dirt. Which means you need mechanical grip and a heavier car typically runs better... as well as a 4 gear tranny.

I'd say start with what you know but keep what ive said in mind and maybe try it!
aeRayls is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 05:09 PM
  #1761  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
onefast8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,438
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Are the spacers for the b5m rear axle the same spacers for the b5m gear diff AND MIP b5m pucks diff in the b6?

http://miponline.com/store/mip16085.html

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91605/p462723

Are these the same thing, material aside?
onefast8 is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 05:14 PM
  #1762  
Suspended
iTrader: (61)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,121
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Yes.
Socket is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 06:04 PM
  #1763  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 326
Default

For those of us without machining equipment, does anyone offer cut idlers yet?
boucher is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 06:04 PM
  #1764  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,115
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Is Associated coming out with slim front wheels for carpet?
190mph is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 07:27 PM
  #1765  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (94)
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 828
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 190mph
Is Associated coming out with slim front wheels for carpet?
who knows? but jconcepts already did
redracerd is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 07:29 PM
  #1766  
Suspended
iTrader: (61)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,121
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by boucher
For those of us without machining equipment, does anyone offer cut idlers yet?
I have done a few sets, and could be enticed to do a few more.
Socket is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 07:29 PM
  #1767  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
 
awidz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 506
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 190mph
Is Associated coming out with slim front wheels for carpet?
I just ordered the slim proline ones for my b6
awidz is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 07:52 PM
  #1768  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
celt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: /dev/null
Posts: 2,570
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default B6 - rear grip

I'm stunned on how much rear grip the chassis with the laydown generates, never expected it.
celt is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 09:16 PM
  #1769  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (43)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 2,907
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

I'm in the process of assembling the rear end and I cannot seem to find the caster hat bushings top 1mm and bottom 2mm. I bet it's in bag 8 but there is no bag 8? Anybody where which bag it's in ?
Phillip F is offline  
Old 07-19-2016, 10:09 PM
  #1770  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (40)
 
the big rc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: portland
Posts: 2,171
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

I need a starting point for Blinky 13.5
the big rc is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.