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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-19-2016, 10:12 PM
  #1771  
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Originally Posted by celt
I'm stunned on how much rear grip the chassis with the laydown generates, never expected it.
I agree. I started with the standard B6D kit and found the further I moved the battery forward the harder I could push the car without sacrificing traction. I added the laydown and swapped the shocks to the front and still never broke the rear loose.
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Old 07-19-2016, 11:08 PM
  #1772  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
My B6 is much lighter than my B5MFL that I setup for outdoors only. The b5 had a 4 gear and 25g brass C, a heavier alum front bulkhead. Plus the b6 weighs an easy 25-30? Less out of the kit.
A lighter car will always need a lighter shock package. The b6 designs makes way more grip front and rear though!
The 1 outdoor track I ran has zero clay in it. It's very soft black dirt. Which means you need mechanical grip and a heavier car typically runs better... as well as a 4 gear tranny.

I'd say start with what you know but keep what ive said in mind and maybe try it!
Okay Thanks will keep that in mind.
I was just suprised of how much softer your car is... Problem for our track is, if it's sligthly wet you have goodgrip. If the clay dries you have a hard packed surface, still Nice Grip.... But if you drive outside the perfect line... Lots of loose stuff and no Grip
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Old 07-20-2016, 03:14 AM
  #1773  
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.

Last edited by MatthieuL; 07-20-2016 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 07-20-2016, 03:36 AM
  #1774  
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Originally Posted by the big rc
I need a starting point for Blinky 13.5
If you shelved that Schuey for a B6, you're already at a good start lol...
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Old 07-20-2016, 04:21 AM
  #1775  
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Originally Posted by boucher
For those of us without machining equipment, does anyone offer cut idlers yet?
Xeusa.net is what you want.
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Old 07-20-2016, 04:33 AM
  #1776  
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Originally Posted by onefast8
Are the spacers for the b5m rear axle the same spacers for the b5m gear diff AND MIP b5m pucks diff in the b6?

http://miponline.com/store/mip16085.html

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91605/p462723

Are these the same thing, material aside?
I'm a little confused where the little shims go?
I built my B6 with the pucks from my B5M, I used the spacers for the gear diff between the bearings and ball diff, but I cant figure out where the smaller ones would go. I was thinking it would be to move the axle closer to the diff but they look too small for that. The pucks are barely inside the diff outdrives, is this going to be ok?

Also, What length flat sensor wire should I get.
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-pucks.jpg   Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-pucks2.jpg   Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-b6.jpg  
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Old 07-20-2016, 04:37 AM
  #1777  
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
I'm a little confused where the little shims go?
I built my B6 with the pucks from my B5M, I used the spacers for the gear diff between the bearings and ball diff, but I cant figure out where the smaller ones would go. I was thinking it would be to move the axle closer to the diff but they look too small for that. The pucks are barely inside the diff outdrives, is this going to be ok?
You just need the biggest shims on the diff outdrives, the smaller ones are useless on the B6 (they go in-between the 2 hub bearings in conjonction with the biggest one outside the inner hub bearing on the b5m)
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Old 07-20-2016, 05:46 AM
  #1778  
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Originally Posted by MatthieuL
You just need the biggest shims on the diff outdrives, the smaller ones are useless on the B6 (they go in-between the 2 hub bearings in conjonction with the biggest one outside the inner hub bearing on the b5m)
You will need to shim the axle so the dog bone sits further in the outdrive. A 6x8x1 shim in between the hub bearings should do it.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:15 AM
  #1779  
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:25 AM
  #1780  
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42
I'm a little confused where the little shims go?
I built my B6 with the pucks from my B5M, I used the spacers for the gear diff between the bearings and ball diff, but I cant figure out where the smaller ones would go. I was thinking it would be to move the axle closer to the diff but they look too small for that. The pucks are barely inside the diff outdrives, is this going to be ok?

Also, What length flat sensor wire should I get.


Google AE axle shims. There is a guide that will show you exactly where to put the four axle shims.
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:59 AM
  #1781  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
Nope, any B5 rear Hubs will work just fine. You will lose the ability to raise and lower the hinge height. This has become a very valuable tuning option already. Typically we've all been running the hubs +1 which had a good feeling ok med- high bite.
Do the standup and laydown transmission differ in outdrive height? I noticed the B6 lists kit hub height at +3 and B6D at +1, but not sure if this tuning difference is due to different outdrive height (and thus bone plunge), or some other reason.

I guess I'm also asking what does hub height affect other than bone plunge (and thus forward traction)... this is kind of a new tuning aid for me
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:04 AM
  #1782  
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Can anyone give me the weight distribution of a stock B6D (g and %?)? Want to compare it to my B5M who is settep up for real dirt Want to achieve something in the area of the B5M and want to know if I have to change a lot at the B6D + Brass/weight stuff or 4g...
Dont need it on 0.1g....

(4200 Shorty, Standard Sized Servo)
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:28 AM
  #1783  
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Originally Posted by _danimal_
If you shelved that Schuey for a B6, you're already at a good start lol...
You mean that Schumacher that TQ'd and won the last point series race
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:42 AM
  #1784  
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Originally Posted by the big rc
You mean that Schumacher that TQ'd and won the last point series race
How'd they do at the Shootout?

Did they even have a car in the A main?

Nope.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:47 AM
  #1785  
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Originally Posted by tsair
Do the standup and laydown transmission differ in outdrive height? I noticed the B6 lists kit hub height at +3 and B6D at +1, but not sure if this tuning difference is due to different outdrive height (and thus bone plunge), or some other reason.

I guess I'm also asking what does hub height affect other than bone plunge (and thus forward traction)... this is kind of a new tuning aid for me

The B6D manual says to put the hub in the 0 position (all the way down) which is 0 insert "up". It's also the standard B5 height.

Raising It affects plunge mostly like you know, it gives the rear end more
Support on higher grip. It tends to free the car up too much on anything but high grip.

+1 has been great on med-high grip so far.

The outdrive height on both are the same as far as I remember. The B6 manual setup is geared more for carpet/astro rather than high grip dirt.
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