649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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05-12-2016, 07:38 PM
#451
People always complain about traction. Tires win races and throttle control. Set up helps
05-13-2016, 03:39 AM
#453
Tech Regular
I didn't realize that this car was only for carpet...
05-13-2016, 05:28 AM
#454
Someone said a page back, the b6d with the laydown will be the new norm roughly, heed that statement. Medium to high grip you will see the fast guys running a laydown all the time, especially in stock. So make sure you buy the laydown parts with your b6d if your surface is medium to high.
05-13-2016, 05:46 AM
#455
Tech Regular
Ha I said that. I think that as we spend more time with these new platforms, we'll find that even with the weight of the car moved forward we can make them work and be fast on most surfaces. I just hope AE has enough stock of laydown parts because the demand is sure to be pretty high.
05-13-2016, 08:23 AM
#457
05-13-2016, 11:36 AM
#460
Will most people be changing the stock steel turnbuckles for Ti turnbuckles for 17.5 racing?
I'm thinking that's my first upgrade, but I have heard zero chatter/complaints about the kit not coming with titanium turnbuckles.
I'm thinking that's my first upgrade, but I have heard zero chatter/complaints about the kit not coming with titanium turnbuckles.
05-13-2016, 12:45 PM
#462
Super Moderator
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Indoor is basically done around here so excuse me for not being up to speed but..What do you gain, is different, running the B6d with the lay down vs. just running the B6?
05-13-2016, 01:34 PM
#465
Tech Regular
I'm running my B5m with the ACRC 3 gear trans now. What I personally am looking for out of the B6-laydown-flat arms-ball diff is a similar feel in driving characteristics, but with the added benefit of all parts being OEM and not costing hundreds of dollars extra. I think that a purpose built car will perform better than our currently "aftermarket modified" B5m's.