649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
02-24-2017, 05:40 PM
#5836
But one thing I've been doing since I got in this hobby... I reasearch the issues I'm having and change things up little by little.. trying to keep note of what all it did .. I've moved things around just so I personally know through experience what it does, not just cause I read it somewhere...
02-24-2017, 08:19 PM
#5838
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: " The World's Most Famous Beach "
Posts: 2,307
Trader Rating: 89 (100%+)
changes and tires
I ran 12 heat races making 1 change each race to get to the set I am at now.
I clean and fully sauce all four tires after each race .
I clean and fully sauce all four tires after each race .
02-25-2017, 04:23 AM
#5840
We often forget that 1/10 scale cars regularly reach speeds far in excess than their full-scale counterparts. Even a stock buggy for example, can reach speeds of nearly 20-30mph down a back stretch.
I can't imagine driving a full scale off-road vehicle 200-300mph on a dirt road...
Small changes are magnified.
02-25-2017, 07:56 PM
#5841
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
The affects are even greater...
We often forget that 1/10 scale cars regularly reach speeds far in excess than their full-scale counterparts. Even a stock buggy for example, can reach speeds of nearly 20-30mph down a back stretch.
I can't imagine driving a full scale off-road vehicle 200-300mph on a dirt road...
Small changes are magnified.
We often forget that 1/10 scale cars regularly reach speeds far in excess than their full-scale counterparts. Even a stock buggy for example, can reach speeds of nearly 20-30mph down a back stretch.
I can't imagine driving a full scale off-road vehicle 200-300mph on a dirt road...
Small changes are magnified.
So much Yes! couldn't agree any more with your statement
02-25-2017, 08:45 PM
#5842
How are you guys mounting a fan with a standup WITHOUT a waterfall mount?
02-26-2017, 09:09 AM
#5844
Moving the shocks to the front of the tower takes away rear bite, it has the same effect on any laydown car you can get YZ-2, B6, etc. The brass C plate puts the weight where you want it, but is not a definite fix. Depending on how loose the track is, you may never get the rear bite you want without adding weight somewhere. The AE manual is 100% right, shocks in fronmt allow for better steering coming out of the corners and a tighter turning radius, shocks in the rear provide more traction at a minimal loss of corner speed steering. Your tires, and track conditions will dicatate what works for you, and what wont. If you look on the Kyosho forum (car I had before I went to AE) a large number of drivers have gone back to 4 gear laydown transmissions with the shocks in front since the motor is turning the opposite way, the rear squats more, and adds grip withjout losing corner speed steering. I wonder if AE is looking into adding this option? would (in my opinion) help with laydown on lesser then high bite tracks.
02-26-2017, 09:43 AM
#5845
Moving the shocks to the front of the tower takes away rear bite, it has the same effect on any laydown car you can get YZ-2, B6, etc. The brass C plate puts the weight where you want it, but is not a definite fix. Depending on how loose the track is, you may never get the rear bite you want without adding weight somewhere. The AE manual is 100% right, shocks in fronmt allow for better steering coming out of the corners and a tighter turning radius, shocks in the rear provide more traction at a minimal loss of corner speed steering. Your tires, and track conditions will dicatate what works for you, and what wont. If you look on the Kyosho forum (car I had before I went to AE) a large number of drivers have gone back to 4 gear laydown transmissions with the shocks in front since the motor is turning the opposite way, the rear squats more, and adds grip withjout losing corner speed steering. I wonder if AE is looking into adding this option? would (in my opinion) help with laydown on lesser then high bite tracks.
Of course, I realize the only real way to find out what works for me at my track is to make these changes one by one and then try it out. But I can't get back to the track until next Saturday, so I figure hyper-obsessing here is the next best thing hehe.
02-26-2017, 07:14 PM
#5846
Searched the entire thread, can't find what inserts to use for aluminum D mount..?
02-26-2017, 07:54 PM
#5848
Tech Regular
Okay guys, my Google-fu isn't too sharp tonight. Just got back from a day of carpet racing, 17.5 class. Managed to break every round, which was a first. First breakage was the MIP rollers gear diff outdrive. So I took the transmission apart and put the stock outdrives and dogbones back in. After that, I'd get a lap or 2 in the race and the dogbones would pop out. I noticed that the bones were only hittin the outer edge of the outdrive. So, once I verify I didn't leave out any shims or spavers, can one of you fine folks point me to the longer dog bones? Thanks in advance
02-26-2017, 08:29 PM
#5849
Okay guys, my Google-fu isn't too sharp tonight. Just got back from a day of carpet racing, 17.5 class. Managed to break every round, which was a first. First breakage was the MIP rollers gear diff outdrive. So I took the transmission apart and put the stock outdrives and dogbones back in. After that, I'd get a lap or 2 in the race and the dogbones would pop out. I noticed that the bones were only hittin the outer edge of the outdrive. So, once I verify I didn't leave out any shims or spavers, can one of you fine folks point me to the longer dog bones? Thanks in advance
02-26-2017, 08:45 PM
#5850
Tech Regular
Makes sense. So this is needed if you use the aluminum D block? I wonder why it didn't mess me up when I was using the MIP drives and roller set up. I'll get these on order along with a few other goodies. Thanks again!