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TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!

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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Matt Trimmings
Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 01-13-2016, 10:11 AM
  #1561  
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Yes, that is more generic version. I would think that say someone had something like the following:

Toe out / +1 / 81.00 MM
Toe out / 0 / 82.00 MM (Guess)
Toe in / -1 / 83.00 MM (Guess)

I wasn't sure if someone had measured it or not. If they did just so that they could go back to it easier than generic or pulling out a hudy board they could just list it
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:54 AM
  #1562  
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Originally Posted by KINGZJ
Frank,

I did experiment with that also just went back as it seemed better. Kraig and I are after the same thing we are both old onroad guys and want everything to steer like a 1/12 scale.
We did, we all liked the ability to push the car when running the shorter VLA, but it isn't a this is better, or that is better type of thing. Personal preference, and that is why it is there to try
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:10 PM
  #1563  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
We did, we all liked the ability to push the car when running the shorter VLA, but it isn't a this is better, or that is better type of thing. Personal preference, and that is why it is there to try
Which setting is the equivalent to the tlr 22 2.0 ?
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mdawson1962
Which setting is the equivalent to the tlr 22 2.0 ?
Long Arm
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:43 PM
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Without reading all 40 pages I have a question. As a VERY casual driver who just picked up a 2.0 would it be worth skipping it and going 3.0?
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:49 PM
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Are there rear sway bars for the car?
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by The Violator
Without reading all 40 pages I have a question. As a VERY casual driver who just picked up a 2.0 would it be worth skipping it and going 3.0?
Nope. The 2.0 is a great car.
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:31 PM
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So here is a fun fact, not sure if it has been posted here yet or not, but my 22 3.0 with tires and body on minus the batt weights in at 1361g. My B5M with body and tires minus the batt comes in at 1380g. Both have no added weight or Ti mods, yet!
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Old 01-13-2016, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by The Violator
Without reading all 40 pages I have a question. As a VERY casual driver who just picked up a 2.0 would it be worth skipping it and going 3.0?
I think the biggest improvement is how much easier the 3.0 is to drive. I think most casual drivers would benefit from that improvement more than most.
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Old 01-13-2016, 04:21 PM
  #1570  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
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Thankyou

I know many have said it but , great job , the time you and the tlr team dedicate to customer support is something that's not common place in today's world
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Mdawson1962
Thankyou

I know many have said it but , great job , the time you and the tlr team dedicate to customer support is something that's not common place in today's world
This was one of the reasons I changed from AE to TLR. The fact that Frank is so active on here and FB, as well as at OCRC, was a no brainer. Plus, the sponsored drivers are some of the nicest and down to earth guys around.

And the car is great to drive, too
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Old 01-13-2016, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by HBRob
This was one of the reasons I changed from AE to TLR. The fact that Frank is so active on here and FB, as well as at OCRC, was a no brainer. Plus, the sponsored drivers are some of the nicest and down to earth guys around.

And the car is great to drive, too
Me too.
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:06 PM
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I am trying to balance my car and have a few questions.

I was surprised to see that I needed to add ~60g next to the bell of the motor to get the car to balance left to right. All my electrics are centered behind the servo; receiver and ESC in that order. I suspect that the imbalance is due to external transmission (spur, pinion, motor plate & cover) since it is the only non-symmetric component of the car.
Is this typical to have to add 60g just to balance the transmission?

Also, what is the suggested front to rear balance to start with?
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:50 PM
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Those of you that feel like when you initially turn the wheel the car turns in really hard.... Go to the inside hole on the front camber link mount. Myself and a few other guys that I race with made this change and it greatly improved the consistency of the car and fast lap, simply because its easier to drive
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:51 AM
  #1575  
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Originally Posted by DJPod
I am trying to balance my car and have a few questions.

I was surprised to see that I needed to add ~60g next to the bell of the motor to get the car to balance left to right. All my electrics are centered behind the servo; receiver and ESC in that order. I suspect that the imbalance is due to external transmission (spur, pinion, motor plate & cover) since it is the only non-symmetric component of the car.
Is this typical to have to add 60g just to balance the transmission?

Also, what is the suggested front to rear balance to start with?
Strange mine came out right on the money. See my earlier post with the car on the scales. I think on page 100.
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