Bumps and Jumps 09/10 offroad season
#961
New step up was awesome!
#962
I think I need to go back to a 8.5! I wish I had all those jumps at my house! I do have more wood to build new and different jumps then what we have. So tell me what you guys would like to see! I know Chris and Bob what to see another spline jump. Maybe we could go up to another level on the step up and have like a 4 foot drop.
#963
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I think I need to go back to a 8.5! I wish I had all those jumps at my house! I do have more wood to build new and different jumps then what we have. So tell me what you guys would like to see! I know Chris and Bob what to see another spline jump. Maybe we could go up to another level on the step up and have like a 4 foot drop.
You just need a faster 10.5. or an MMP speedo.
#964
I think I need to go back to a 8.5! I wish I had all those jumps at my house! I do have more wood to build new and different jumps then what we have. So tell me what you guys would like to see! I know Chris and Bob what to see another spline jump. Maybe we could go up to another level on the step up and have like a 4 foot drop.
You just need to get a Real Buggy! LOL
#965
We have to work on Chris to let us put in an over under! My speed is just fine never had one problem with my LRP! I dont want to be sending the MMP back every month when it screws up!!
#966
#967
Hahahaha, nah I just need to stop getting nervous and anxious. Thats my problem. If I just raced like we do in practice, Id do a ton better. I gotta get some more Meds. LOL
Snowboarding ---- R/C Race weekend!!! Kyle and Eryn we need to plan this guys!!!!
I have a board and bindings forsale if any1 interested. thank you
Snowboarding ---- R/C Race weekend!!! Kyle and Eryn we need to plan this guys!!!!
I have a board and bindings forsale if any1 interested. thank you
#968
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Only if you leave Chris use it will you have a problem. Its not the LRP's fault you can't get enough power from the stock settings. Its a software setup more than you need a different motor. If you put a Tekin in MMP in I can assure you I can setup the speedo so you can make that jump easily.
#969
bullocks, he'll be fine with the LRP. knowin jason he'll hate the tekin as much as b00by did (even though we all know it was in baker's head from word 'go'). i'll let em try it if he wants. i figured it out in terms of what it likes, what a 2wd likes, and what a 2wd at bumps likes from it. short version is.
8.5-10.5 in dualmode (depending on ur confidence level, level of traction and if ur 10.5 is strong, otherwise run of the mill 8.5). rest of radio settings as you please. full electronic timing (mech timing does not matter, leave motor alone). tighten the neutral width, linear profile (can use more aggressive 4 if track gripped up like it appeared to on video). set brakes to your preference.
set current limiter (in hotwire dualmode) to no limit (100%) . get slipper to make car behave as best you can for an average grip level at bumps. In this case this would be before racing no extra moisture (increasing grip) or chalk (lowereing grip). Perhaps tune a fraction too much slip to point where u can really hear it on hit of throttle-NOT DIFF, but slipper)
reset CL to 70% and then repeat, getting slipper to make car behave as best it can (perhaps a fraction tight). that is almost the opposite from what u did at 100% CL. 70% is a general example, depending on track and motor this could be lower/higher.
now u have a range of lowest to max CL and slipper settings from least pressure (for high current) and most pressure (lowered current). set your CL near the middle of the range u selected, in this case 85-90%. You also know how much slipper range you have to play with for most all conditions (could be 1/2 turn it could 2 full turns depending on all the above variables).
Use this as your tuning tool and come qual/race time u will not be diggin the laptop out all the time pulling ur rx plugs in/out over and over. u'll have a base for most all conditions and can instead tune with a flick of a driver. if the track is gripping up u can feed it some more slipper. if its goin away and gettin chalky (like most time happens at bumps especially the colder and more nitro present). you of course know that u can take slipper away.
this also helps tell you when ur slipper pads being to fade or need to be flipped.
all without futzin over the laptop all the time. dualmode is very smooth and a great application for offroad. most dismissed it b/c for some reason folks follow an onroad mentality when it comes to electronics and how good/bad they are or are not. its a much better scenario than motoring down when we only run mod. not to mention not havin ponies for crazy jump combos.
hope this helps any of u folks out here. i'm sure there's also ability to translate this back into castle link to make life easier for mamba folks too.
Granted a stanch LRP guy would say 'we set it and forget it', at least in onroad where its 'profile 8 and rip'
R
8.5-10.5 in dualmode (depending on ur confidence level, level of traction and if ur 10.5 is strong, otherwise run of the mill 8.5). rest of radio settings as you please. full electronic timing (mech timing does not matter, leave motor alone). tighten the neutral width, linear profile (can use more aggressive 4 if track gripped up like it appeared to on video). set brakes to your preference.
set current limiter (in hotwire dualmode) to no limit (100%) . get slipper to make car behave as best you can for an average grip level at bumps. In this case this would be before racing no extra moisture (increasing grip) or chalk (lowereing grip). Perhaps tune a fraction too much slip to point where u can really hear it on hit of throttle-NOT DIFF, but slipper)
reset CL to 70% and then repeat, getting slipper to make car behave as best it can (perhaps a fraction tight). that is almost the opposite from what u did at 100% CL. 70% is a general example, depending on track and motor this could be lower/higher.
now u have a range of lowest to max CL and slipper settings from least pressure (for high current) and most pressure (lowered current). set your CL near the middle of the range u selected, in this case 85-90%. You also know how much slipper range you have to play with for most all conditions (could be 1/2 turn it could 2 full turns depending on all the above variables).
Use this as your tuning tool and come qual/race time u will not be diggin the laptop out all the time pulling ur rx plugs in/out over and over. u'll have a base for most all conditions and can instead tune with a flick of a driver. if the track is gripping up u can feed it some more slipper. if its goin away and gettin chalky (like most time happens at bumps especially the colder and more nitro present). you of course know that u can take slipper away.
this also helps tell you when ur slipper pads being to fade or need to be flipped.
all without futzin over the laptop all the time. dualmode is very smooth and a great application for offroad. most dismissed it b/c for some reason folks follow an onroad mentality when it comes to electronics and how good/bad they are or are not. its a much better scenario than motoring down when we only run mod. not to mention not havin ponies for crazy jump combos.
hope this helps any of u folks out here. i'm sure there's also ability to translate this back into castle link to make life easier for mamba folks too.
Granted a stanch LRP guy would say 'we set it and forget it', at least in onroad where its 'profile 8 and rip'
R
#970
bullocks, he'll be fine with the LRP. knowin jason he'll hate the tekin as much as b00by did (even though we all know it was in baker's head from word 'go'). i'll let em try it if he wants. i figured it out in terms of what it likes, what a 2wd likes, and what a 2wd at bumps likes from it. short version is.
8.5-10.5 in dualmode (depending on ur confidence level, level of traction and if ur 10.5 is strong, otherwise run of the mill 8.5). rest of radio settings as you please. full electronic timing (mech timing does not matter, leave motor alone). tighten the neutral width, linear profile (can use more aggressive 4 if track gripped up like it appeared to on video). set brakes to your preference.
set current limiter (in hotwire dualmode) to no limit (100%) . get slipper to make car behave as best you can for an average grip level at bumps. In this case this would be before racing no extra moisture (increasing grip) or chalk (lowereing grip). Perhaps tune a fraction too much slip to point where u can really hear it on hit of throttle-NOT DIFF, but slipper)
reset CL to 70% and then repeat, getting slipper to make car behave as best it can (perhaps a fraction tight). that is almost the opposite from what u did at 100% CL. 70% is a general example, depending on track and motor this could be lower/higher.
now u have a range of lowest to max CL and slipper settings from least pressure (for high current) and most pressure (lowered current). set your CL near the middle of the range u selected, in this case 85-90%. You also know how much slipper range you have to play with for most all conditions (could be 1/2 turn it could 2 full turns depending on all the above variables).
Use this as your tuning tool and come qual/race time u will not be diggin the laptop out all the time pulling ur rx plugs in/out over and over. u'll have a base for most all conditions and can instead tune with a flick of a driver. if the track is gripping up u can feed it some more slipper. if its goin away and gettin chalky (like most time happens at bumps especially the colder and more nitro present). you of course know that u can take slipper away.
this also helps tell you when ur slipper pads being to fade or need to be flipped.
all without futzin over the laptop all the time. dualmode is very smooth and a great application for offroad. most dismissed it b/c for some reason folks follow an onroad mentality when it comes to electronics and how good/bad they are or are not. its a much better scenario than motoring down when we only run mod. not to mention not havin ponies for crazy jump combos.
hope this helps any of u folks out here. i'm sure there's also ability to translate this back into castle link to make life easier for mamba folks too.
Granted a stanch LRP guy would say 'we set it and forget it', at least in onroad where its 'profile 8 and rip'
R
8.5-10.5 in dualmode (depending on ur confidence level, level of traction and if ur 10.5 is strong, otherwise run of the mill 8.5). rest of radio settings as you please. full electronic timing (mech timing does not matter, leave motor alone). tighten the neutral width, linear profile (can use more aggressive 4 if track gripped up like it appeared to on video). set brakes to your preference.
set current limiter (in hotwire dualmode) to no limit (100%) . get slipper to make car behave as best you can for an average grip level at bumps. In this case this would be before racing no extra moisture (increasing grip) or chalk (lowereing grip). Perhaps tune a fraction too much slip to point where u can really hear it on hit of throttle-NOT DIFF, but slipper)
reset CL to 70% and then repeat, getting slipper to make car behave as best it can (perhaps a fraction tight). that is almost the opposite from what u did at 100% CL. 70% is a general example, depending on track and motor this could be lower/higher.
now u have a range of lowest to max CL and slipper settings from least pressure (for high current) and most pressure (lowered current). set your CL near the middle of the range u selected, in this case 85-90%. You also know how much slipper range you have to play with for most all conditions (could be 1/2 turn it could 2 full turns depending on all the above variables).
Use this as your tuning tool and come qual/race time u will not be diggin the laptop out all the time pulling ur rx plugs in/out over and over. u'll have a base for most all conditions and can instead tune with a flick of a driver. if the track is gripping up u can feed it some more slipper. if its goin away and gettin chalky (like most time happens at bumps especially the colder and more nitro present). you of course know that u can take slipper away.
this also helps tell you when ur slipper pads being to fade or need to be flipped.
all without futzin over the laptop all the time. dualmode is very smooth and a great application for offroad. most dismissed it b/c for some reason folks follow an onroad mentality when it comes to electronics and how good/bad they are or are not. its a much better scenario than motoring down when we only run mod. not to mention not havin ponies for crazy jump combos.
hope this helps any of u folks out here. i'm sure there's also ability to translate this back into castle link to make life easier for mamba folks too.
Granted a stanch LRP guy would say 'we set it and forget it', at least in onroad where its 'profile 8 and rip'
R
#971
i'll put it back in for that. tues practice woulda be nice. oh well chris is tired, he deserves it.
r
r
#973
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Join Date: Sep 2001
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#975
Tech Apprentice