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Old 04-03-2018, 07:33 AM
  #646  
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
So is R1 going to refund customers for motors not being about to pass tech ? I was told that he isnt sending in a current motor for approval ... Meaning all current R1 motors are illegal at events (all scale nationals & large races )
LMAO, ya that'll happen...
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Old 04-03-2018, 07:27 PM
  #647  
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
This happens sometimes. Not to worry, it's an easy fix. Place the front plate on a flat surface and simply take a 3.0 mm hex driver and push firmly on the front ring. Do this until all three sides are flush. I had this happen when I used long screws during motor installation.
True but it shouldn't happen, should be picked up and rectified in basic QC prior to packing and shipping.

Just seems sloppy to me.
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Old 04-03-2018, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by nexxus
True but it shouldn't happen, should be picked up and rectified in basic QC prior to packing and shipping.

Just seems sloppy to me.
for sure. especially when they're charging prices that most would assume at least the smallest amount of QC would be in there. $100 for an off the shelf, nobody looks at it before shipping, is steep.

again, i bought my V16 maybe 3-4 months ago and bought the 1700 rotor (they put it in and shipped it that way). so i know someone went through the motor to at least put the rotor in.

it's a shame because the motor is good. no doubt about it. but when you have issues like this, it just looks bad.
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Old 04-10-2018, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
This happens sometimes. Not to worry, it's an easy fix. Place the front plate on a flat surface and simply take a 3.0 mm hex driver and push firmly on the front ring. Do this until all three sides are flush. I had this happen when I used long screws during motor installation.
Hi Edward, can you post a video on how to correct this issue? I have a 21.5 that has the same problem. Thanks!
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Old 04-11-2018, 08:05 PM
  #650  
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Originally Posted by eevul
Hi Edward, can you post a video on how to correct this issue? I have a 21.5 that has the same problem. Thanks!
Sure, I'll have something up in the coming days.
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Old 04-14-2018, 06:04 PM
  #651  
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I need some gearing help from everyone. I am running a 21.5 with the stock rotor in USGT. Our track is a large medium to high grip outdoor asphalt track. Today I raced set TQ and won the main with a FDR of 3.58 and timing at 49-50 degrees on the can. the issue that I had was the motor was flat down the straight about mid way through the main and the infield was ok. As the race went on the motor started to lay down and the 2nd place car caught up to me at the end. After the race I changed my gearing to an FDR of 3.8 with the same timing. The car felt much better and would wind up in the straight and ran good through the infield, but it was about .4 slower than my fastest lap of the day. The motor seemed to top out about half way down the straight so I decided to try one tooth bigger with an FDR of 3.73. The motor again felt flat everywhere the speed was about the same as the 3.8 FDR. My thinking is to go with the 3.8 FDR and start adjusting the timing up. Is this the right way to go? Does anyone have any other advice for me on this?
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Old 04-16-2018, 02:12 PM
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Looking for timing and gearing for an large asphalt track for a 21.5 in an f1. Looking at dyno print outs i’m thinking around 30-35 deg geareed st 2.0 ish
any help would be appreciated
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Old 04-17-2018, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by millbank
Looking for timing and gearing for an large asphalt track for a 21.5 in an f1. Looking at dyno print outs i’m thinking around 30-35 deg geareed st 2.0 ish
any help would be appreciated
https://www.rcmaker.com.au/pages/r1-tech-tips

That suggests 40-45 timing with 2.6-2.9 FDR as a starting point.
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:04 AM
  #654  
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Received my r1 21.5 today.

Put it on the motor analyser and got this reading.
24. 30. 30.
I was expecting a better split. Is this acceptable or should i be looking to get a replacement board.

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Old 04-17-2018, 01:38 PM
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Here is the R1 Digital 2 speed control setting that I used at the ATS Edmonton race, just scroll down past the car setup sheet.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/vbc...onton20180415/
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Old 04-17-2018, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Here is the R1 Digital 2 speed control setting that I used at the ATS Edmonton race, just scroll down past the car setup sheet.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/vbc...onton20180415/
Gary,
A couple of questions for you on motor and car:
1. You are saying you had the timing set at 52 degrees on checker, was that on a motor analyzer?
2. I noticed that you ran the 8200 mah battery, what was your car weight with that heavier battery?

Thanks for your help in advance.
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by fanfor18
Gary,
A couple of questions for you on motor and car:
1. You are saying you had the timing set at 52 degrees on checker, was that on a motor analyzer?
2. I noticed that you ran the 8200 mah battery, what was your car weight with that heavier battery?

Thanks for your help in advance.
Hi,
1. I only have a SkyRC motor checker which I use to set motor timing.
2. My car was heavy but balances out with the big battery, I was at 1390ish.

Thanks
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Old 04-18-2018, 11:49 AM
  #658  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Hi,
1. I only have a SkyRC motor checker which I use to set motor timing.
2. My car was heavy but balances out with the big battery, I was at 1390ish.

Thanks
Sorry for all of the questions. I am running the same car as you, what benefit are you seeing with the larger battery over staying at the 1350 weight limit
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Old 04-18-2018, 02:35 PM
  #659  
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Originally Posted by fanfor18
Sorry for all of the questions. I am running the same car as you, what benefit are you seeing with the larger battery over staying at the 1350 weight limit
No problem Brandon,
If I run the 6k/120c battery I can be right at minimum weight, but the car is heavy on the electronics side, when on balance pins. This is using all R1, speed control, fan and servo. With the 8400/120c the car will balance out on the pins but is overweight. The higher battery doesn't bleed off as bad towards the end of a 5 minute run, when comparing end voltages, also comparing best lap times and especially looking at the last minute of the run for lap times. If it was on a really tight track with a lot of turns I'd be tempted to try the lighter battery again, just because the car can transition the corners better. Ultimately the lap times are what I'm really looking at, the stop watch doesn't lie. Its pretty hard to make up supplied voltage to the motor and when I run a big battery at the end of 5 minutes the end voltage is about .2 volts higher than with a smaller battery, but if you can't put the power down because your car fuzzed up, well then its just wasted power again. Hope that sort of answers your question, if not ask away.
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Old 04-18-2018, 05:39 PM
  #660  
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Are these numbers good for a used v11 21.5t motor? The rotor is 12.5mm black and timing is set to 52 degrees. lipo only has 8v without any load


kv 3039
rpm 21881
v 7.2v
i 5.4a

​​​​​​​thanks!
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