BMI Racing Discussions
#7966
Hi guys,
Just wanted to let you know that I received BMI TC4 chassis kit yesterday from Jason and tested it in our local track today.. Must say that the car feels brilliant, its planted and very consistent all 5 mins.
I'm using exactly the same setup that I had on my TC4 tub chassis..
Quality is second to none, now let's see if I can keep my lead in our national Pro-Stock (17 turn limit) series to the end..
Just wanted to let you know that I received BMI TC4 chassis kit yesterday from Jason and tested it in our local track today.. Must say that the car feels brilliant, its planted and very consistent all 5 mins.
I'm using exactly the same setup that I had on my TC4 tub chassis..
Quality is second to none, now let's see if I can keep my lead in our national Pro-Stock (17 turn limit) series to the end..
#7968
Tech Fanatic
Ok after a little break im about ready to get back in. I never really got the tc4 to work the way i wanted and would like to use it for racing stock. I already had the Bomber shaft and would like to build a very light car. obviously this forum will be a little biased, but i dont really want to drop a couple hundred for the conversion when it comes out. I have read about some of the differences in this chassis but does anybody know how it compares to the 3 racing one? Also is the chassis going to include the new motor mount anytime soon? basically i just want somebody to convince me this is the chassis for me.
#7971
MI2 BMI Chassis
Been thinking about getting one of these for a while now but want to know what the benefits would be over the standard S1 chassis. What effects would I see on the track? Need some advice on either getting the BMI chassis or the Teemu one. Had a BMI TC3 and loved it but there was a huge difference between the TC3 stock chassis and the BMI one, not sure of the differences between them for the MI2 though. All thoughts and setups greatfully received
Paul
Paul
#7973
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by mutley001
Been thinking about getting one of these for a while now but want to know what the benefits would be over the standard S1 chassis. What effects would I see on the track? Need some advice on either getting the BMI chassis or the Teemu one. Had a BMI TC3 and loved it but there was a huge difference between the TC3 stock chassis and the BMI one, not sure of the differences between them for the MI2 though. All thoughts and setups greatfully received
Paul
Paul
#7974
hey guys,i will explain the changes i made to the Mi2 and the TC4.
TC4:i moved the batteries for optimum weight transfer front to rear and left to right,i corrected the steering geometry by changing the position of the steering rack,i allow for the use of the old tc3 rack and also a standard mount nitro rack.i narrowed the car from both sides instead of just the battery side(the tub chassis is only narrowed from the battery side off the centerline as compared to the TC3 stock tub)giving you the same overall width but at the same time being symetrical.the kit allows for the use of strapping tape for the batteries or the use of the included battery stra and a pocket it milled under the batteries on the bottom of the chassis to allow the tape to lay below the chassis surface and eliminate scrubbing or breaking.last but not least,i drilled holes in 4 points of the chassis for balancing your car front to rear and left to right.
Mi2: the chassis is 5/8 of an inch more narrow than stock,the batteries are also moved to the optimum location,cooling vents were cut into the chassis for the motor and the chassis is pocketed instead of a through cutout under the motor to increase torsional strength.the chassis will also accept tape or the battery strap and the top deck has closed front end rear walls instead of open like the stock top deck.this will help against tweak issues.
All of my kits are made from the highest quality quasi isotropic carbon fiber and in some cases a high modulous quasi isotropic carbon fiber.all the battery slots are beveled and all pockets and edges have all the edges beveled but not as deep.thanks for your interest.let me know if i missed anything.
TC4:i moved the batteries for optimum weight transfer front to rear and left to right,i corrected the steering geometry by changing the position of the steering rack,i allow for the use of the old tc3 rack and also a standard mount nitro rack.i narrowed the car from both sides instead of just the battery side(the tub chassis is only narrowed from the battery side off the centerline as compared to the TC3 stock tub)giving you the same overall width but at the same time being symetrical.the kit allows for the use of strapping tape for the batteries or the use of the included battery stra and a pocket it milled under the batteries on the bottom of the chassis to allow the tape to lay below the chassis surface and eliminate scrubbing or breaking.last but not least,i drilled holes in 4 points of the chassis for balancing your car front to rear and left to right.
Mi2: the chassis is 5/8 of an inch more narrow than stock,the batteries are also moved to the optimum location,cooling vents were cut into the chassis for the motor and the chassis is pocketed instead of a through cutout under the motor to increase torsional strength.the chassis will also accept tape or the battery strap and the top deck has closed front end rear walls instead of open like the stock top deck.this will help against tweak issues.
All of my kits are made from the highest quality quasi isotropic carbon fiber and in some cases a high modulous quasi isotropic carbon fiber.all the battery slots are beveled and all pockets and edges have all the edges beveled but not as deep.thanks for your interest.let me know if i missed anything.