fat500

iTrader: (51)

what is the optimal timing for the gen4 25.5 motors for f1 running 2.39-2.5 fdr ? ballpark.....

Tekin Prez

In that 45deg range seems to be common. Some push it a little higher pending how flowing the track layout is.

fat500

iTrader: (51)

Great....Thanks Prez......

hunterdawg

iTrader: (19)

Are there photos of the wiring of a Tekin RS ESC for brushed motor? Forward brake only. Thanks

Mac The Knife

iTrader: (33)

hunterdawg

iTrader: (19)

Thank you.

v_squared

iTrader: (53)

I have a few Tekin RSX. I was running firmware 272 on it. Since update to the latest hotwire version I only see firmware 258. What happened? How do I get firmware 272 again?

fat500

iTrader: (51)

did what the prez said......Motor came to life and I did have to go down 5 teeth on my pinion.....have to gear these gen 4 to the powerband of the motor. Now setting the fastest laps in f1....no joke....Thanks

Tekin Prez

People seem to get caught up in the motor of the month it seems. We are confident our Gen4 motors can run with any of them when setup right for the conditions. Thank you for helping show some people that...

Tekin Prez

If you did not update the units to another version then they still have V272 in them and that hotwire should allow you to make settings changes even though it does not offer V272 as an update optioin. V272 was briefly available but was never ROAR approved and we moved to V276 is why it was removed. V258 is the last ROAR approved version for those older units.

Sabin

iTrader: (1)

If memory serves, there's a post somewhere here about brushed motor break-in and not to use water?

Tekin Prez

For track racing back in the say people did often do a short break in on the brushes to make them seat well on commutator.
Crawler motors are what we sell that are brushed now and do not need a break in. Just driving them seats the brushes. We were seeing crawler people do water break ins and basically use up half the brush life during the break in and then have problems when brushes were too short.

NorthCentral RC

iTrader: (6)

Sorry, wrong thread.

B_Boss

Hey there. Can someone, anyone show me a great way to solder wiring to the blasted RSX Pro posts? I almost feel as though Tekin took a couple steps back with the posts especially when you recognize how the older ESC posts were designed. I don't understand that decision. The RSX Pro is even advertised as "easy solder". Perhaps I'm just terrible but my goodness either that is just not true or I am terrible. Take a good look at the RSX Pro vs the RSX. The Pro just barely has any post surface area to secure the wire well. Its been a bit of a nightmare and I'm concerned I may just ruin the ESC if I'm not too careful. I truly wish the Pro's soldering posts were the RSX's. Those posts look as though they can hold a wire snug and secure as you solder I apologize for the large image but I wanted to show a clear difference. I've seen the official Randy Pike soldering video and that clearly does not apply to me lol. Even the ESC he's soldering has more secure posts over the RSX Pro. Again, maybe its just me. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I'm also using 14awg wires. I should probably go 15 or 16. Thanks!

HarryLeach

What soldering iron are you using?
I've started using irons (even clones) that use the Hakko T15 (T12 is the import/clone designation) style tips (MPS for track use), no problems with heavy high strand count wire or getting solid connections to any ESC post.