B_Boss

Well I use an x-tronic 4010-pro-x but honestly after thinking about it quite a bit, I believe it might be me, I mean Tekin has competent engineers for sure but I may use the wrong tip and too high temps, etc. I also have a miniware ts-100 that I haven't opened yet. I appreciate your input for sure, thanks!

MiCk B

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

What's the size of the tip you are using, It needs to be quite large to keep the heat. I would usually use a tip around 5mm for speedos and motors.

Personally I've found the new Tekin solder posts easier, quicker to tin the solder post, the solder on the wire.

If you can try a larger tip, it will have more heat (thermal mass) so better when you put the wire / solder post / iron tip together.

MiCk B. :-)

Jonnydb

iTrader: (8)

Question, anyone hasve trouble with paramters using Tekin Hotwire 3.0 BT?

i was working with Rs Pro BE, and i noted, when the changes were made by app, the parameters dont hold on esc or dont work properly, but when i use the interface pc, works normally the changes

anyone had this problem? I´m using android 13

HarryLeach

I haven't liked the slip-over tip irons if I can avoid it for the past 3-4 years. I am willing to bet you'll have better luck with the ts-100.

This is the cheap iron I bought for home use, to share tips with the MPS (gen1, the gen2 is just as good) I travel with. Pair either with a T15-D52 tip, and there isn't an RC power connection I've had any issues with up to 10ga. If you order genuine Hakko tips, shipping is free when you get 3 or more, and you get to avoid the big list of DOA complaints you see in Amazon reviews on the T12 knock-offs.

It's not just about thermal mass, it's about thermal recovery as well. The TS-100 and other irons using the T12/T15 style tips have less thermal mass, but they recover extremely quickly, allowing the extreme type of solder joints we use in RC to be performed very efficiently. The quicker you can "get in, get out", the better off you are, and thermal mass alone won't get you there in a 40-74W class iron, unless the thermal recovery is very good.

Contact area comes into play as well, which is where a bigger tip helps, but again, a bigger/heavier tip alone isn't the whole story.

HarryLeach

I have to ask a dumb question to start: Are you hitting apply in the app after making changes, and does it pop up the dialog as it's writing?

I have found also that the app drops the bluetooth connection pretty often, so you also need to make sure the HW3 is showing the proper LED lights showing that it's staying connected so you can make your changes and apply properly.

When I do all of that, I haven't seen any difference in settings applied to the ESC from my phone or a PC.

Hope that helps.

CREWMAN

iTrader: (20)

Is a Tekin RS (The original one from about 10+ years ago), still a viable ESC with Brushless motors of today? It appears the new Tekin Hotwire stuff wont support this ESC anymore, but maybe I am misunderstanding their website.

Thanks!

Jonnydb

iTrader: (8)

its not a dumb question some really forgot to apply the changes, i made some tests:

• apply changes, hit drive, connect again, read the parameters. sometimes show the parameters that i changed sometimes not
• apply changes, hit the click the connect/disconnect button
• turn off and after turn on and read the parameters
• made downgrade from 291 to 258

i just noted this problem because im working with mod motors and testing on banch i noted the timming/turbo didnt open, just if use the trigger gradually and sometimes using the trigger fast, seems i were using blinky mode, i thought was problem with sensor cable or esc.

After many test with HW, i tried with PC, and worked all the changes, after setup the esc on PC and work, i tried again with HW and happened again, the same thing

HarryLeach

Yep, still gets the job done. All of my original RS's eventually died, and I updated via the non-warranty repair/replace option through Tekin, but they did just fine up until they didn't. In just about every case, the sensors stopped being read. Not upset about it, they were used for years, then sat unused for 8 years, then lasted another year to year and a half of competition before I had to start sending them in one at a time.

HarryLeach

I just tested one of my spare ESCs, I'm able to make changes either with my phone or the PC and the settings to the ESC hold.

For mod motors, are you trying boost in sensored only mode, or in dual drive? Using the C1 or C2 profiles, or built in?

Jonnydb

iTrader: (8)

The main "problem" if the parameters really works on esc, for me using the HW BT didnt work, only using PC


[QUOTE=HarryLeach;15973861
For mod motors, are you trying boost in sensored only mode, or in dual drive? Using the C1 or C2 profiles, or built in?[/QUOTE]

• Sensored only
• C1 Profile but i tested also the others profiles

if is possible, can you make the same test, using HW BT, input a mod profile (can be lowest values just for test) and note if the parameters really works or sometimes seems was a blinky mode

HarryLeach

I run 13.5 open oval, and my boost settings from my phone do appear to make it to the track. I did switch to a hobbywing esc though, for oval it seems to be the way to go to get the most output while controlling motor temp. It was more expedient for me to change ESCs than spend even more time trying to get up to speed at a national event, and I probably won't revisit until the season ends.

CREWMAN

iTrader: (20)

Thats good to know and nice to hear! I ran mine in a 1/12 scale 17.5 class and it always treated me well. Now that im getting back in, im cionsidering building a 1/10 scale buggy if I dive back in, but noticed alot of guys today run esc's with big heat sinks and fans, hence why I asked if this thing would hold up to todays components.

gotheframe

Really happy with how my RS Pro BE and G4 Spec-R 17.5 with Silver rotor and ceramic bearings is comparing to competition. I've strung together a few podiums now since I've moved into the expert class. I'm the only one running Tekin at the track. I'm certainly not down on power/speed.

ghuber

iTrader: (1)

So for the G4 13.5R, for a "short high grip track with tight layout" which would be a better starting place - the orange or silver rotor? Right now, I have the default blue and it doesn't have enough rip.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I would recommend the silver high torque rotor. For the 1/10 4wd buggy spec class I do the following on a Gen4 13.5 Spec-R:

- High Torque Silver rotor
- telfon shims they include in the box
- Ceramic bearings
- 45 - 49 degrees of timing on can

I have also had some good luck degreasing the bearings and re-lubing with a light bearing oil like SHAG bearing oil as some felt like they had some really heavy grease in there.