3LikesMugen MBX6
10-03-2009, 03:33 PM
#5356
Run the 5r, sounds like it's ready. Less risk of having trouble with the large diameter inner hub bearings on the 6 too. I'd be interested in hearing how the 5r worked for you after having run the 6 for the season.
10-05-2009, 07:18 AM
#5357
middle diff gets fried
Hello all,
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
10-05-2009, 07:24 AM
#5358
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)
Check to see it the rear center cvd pin is hitting in the brake rotor. The center pins are 1mm shorter than outdrive axle ones and if wrong one happened to get pressed in at factory, it would bind. Also check to make sure that the brakes are not hanging up or that under full throttle, if the front or rear brake linkage is not set correctly causing the brakes to come on slightly.. I did that on first one I ever built..
Also make sure that a front or rear diff is not shimmed to tight..
Also make sure that a front or rear diff is not shimmed to tight..
10-05-2009, 07:49 AM
#5359
Hello all,
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
10-05-2009, 02:58 PM
#5364
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=270
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ody-Heavy-Duty
10-05-2009, 03:29 PM
#5365
Check to see it the rear center cvd pin is hitting in the brake rotor. The center pins are 1mm shorter than outdrive axle ones and if wrong one happened to get pressed in at factory, it would bind. Also check to make sure that the brakes are not hanging up or that under full throttle, if the front or rear brake linkage is not set correctly causing the brakes to come on slightly.. I did that on first one I ever built..
Also make sure that a front or rear diff is not shimmed to tight..
Also make sure that a front or rear diff is not shimmed to tight..
I have already rounded with the dremmel the opposite corner of the eccenters, so it does not brake under full throttle.
I have my brakes set that they do not touch the disks at the neutral point but when I touch the trigger to the brake, they come in contact immediately. It was suggested to me to let a little looser the linkages, in order to avoid the braking when the chassis flexes and then set from the Tx the initial move to compensate the longer distance. But I believe that this could only happen when I am at neutral position, because when I am on throttle the linkages are so loose on the brake side that cannot cause the brakes to touch due to flex and I am for such a short time at the neutral, which I believe that even if it binded due to the flex it is so sudden and short that it cannot cause the diff to get fried. Any opinion on that?
Thanks guys.
10-05-2009, 06:06 PM
#5366
mine is however made with metallic colors, we are still testing it so you can only buy it in the normal printed version like on the website
10-05-2009, 06:20 PM
#5367
Tech Addict
Hi Etgdpu,
Can I ask if your using standard discs and pads on your buggy.
The only reason I ask is I have seen some guys use the fibreglass avid type disc and leave the actual pads on and after a while these get superhot and bind up.
If using normal discs and pads, I suggest you ensure that you have about 3mm or more play inbetween the pads and the discs. i.e back the 2 screws off for the front discs and back the 2 off for the rear.
I usually have a lot of play here and use brake punch on my tx to jump to the bite spot on brakes when I just touch brakes on tx.
Can I ask if your using standard discs and pads on your buggy.
The only reason I ask is I have seen some guys use the fibreglass avid type disc and leave the actual pads on and after a while these get superhot and bind up.
If using normal discs and pads, I suggest you ensure that you have about 3mm or more play inbetween the pads and the discs. i.e back the 2 screws off for the front discs and back the 2 off for the rear.
I usually have a lot of play here and use brake punch on my tx to jump to the bite spot on brakes when I just touch brakes on tx.
10-05-2009, 07:06 PM
#5368
Hello all,
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
I would appreciate your help to the following problem:
I come from the 200mm world and I recently built a MBX6. I ran 2 races and both times I faced the same problem, after a while the middle differential gets fried and the silicone oil gets black and comes out of the shafts.
It is obvious that something binds to rear part of the car and makes the center differential to differentiate all the time and increases the temperature and fries the silicone oil, which was 20K (20, 20, 7).
The problem is that we can not discover where exactly is the problem. When the car is on the table everything works exact,y as it should. I asked the local experts to inspect the car and after many attempts, no one can say what is causing the problem. It seems that everything is perfect but after a while the car becomes totally unstable and impossible to drive, because the rear part binds and the center differential has increased temperature and becomes very light. After 30 minutes final, my front tires were totally worn out, while the rears were in very good condition and of course, I suffered from on power understeering.
Thanks in advance
Dimitris
) and all diffs are good for another very hard race weekend & drivetrain spins very freely 
Hope your able to get the buggy working, I am extremely happy with mine
10-06-2009, 12:55 AM
#5369
Hi Etgdpu,
Can I ask if your using standard discs and pads on your buggy.
The only reason I ask is I have seen some guys use the fibreglass avid type disc and leave the actual pads on and after a while these get superhot and bind up.
If using normal discs and pads, I suggest you ensure that you have about 3mm or more play inbetween the pads and the discs. i.e back the 2 screws off for the front discs and back the 2 off for the rear.
I usually have a lot of play here and use brake punch on my tx to jump to the bite spot on brakes when I just touch brakes on tx.
Can I ask if your using standard discs and pads on your buggy.
The only reason I ask is I have seen some guys use the fibreglass avid type disc and leave the actual pads on and after a while these get superhot and bind up.
If using normal discs and pads, I suggest you ensure that you have about 3mm or more play inbetween the pads and the discs. i.e back the 2 screws off for the front discs and back the 2 off for the rear.
I usually have a lot of play here and use brake punch on my tx to jump to the bite spot on brakes when I just touch brakes on tx.
I use the standard disks and pads. I believe that this may be a reason and therefore, I will follow your advise to leave them loose and have the Tx to do the job. However, I have to say that when we inspected it during the race weekend, everything looked perfect without any sign of bind anywhere.
Hi, this might be a simple but overlooked answer. Don't over tighten the rear diffcase/bulkhead. I noticed when I built my MBX6 that the drivetrain binded especially the rear diff so I backed off 1 turn on the center top half diff mount and also the rear diff case/bulkhead. One very hard race weekend later (All my freinds wanted to try my buggy ) and all diffs are good for another very hard race weekend & drivetrain spins very freely
Hope your able to get the buggy working, I am extremely happy with mine
) and all diffs are good for another very hard race weekend & drivetrain spins very freely Hope your able to get the buggy working, I am extremely happy with mine
This is a ghost
10-06-2009, 01:15 AM
#5370
I had a similar problem last week end, the rear bearing on the center diff would lock up from time to time for no apparent reason!!
It took me a couple of minutes to actualy localize the problem because the bearing would spin freely at times and just lock on it's own...
If you really can't find anything else double check or just change the bearings on the center diff.
when you first dismount the diff just keep spinning the diff in your hand and see if it locks up at some point.
It took me a couple of minutes to actualy localize the problem because the bearing would spin freely at times and just lock on it's own...
If you really can't find anything else double check or just change the bearings on the center diff.
when you first dismount the diff just keep spinning the diff in your hand and see if it locks up at some point.