XrayEye

iTrader: (1)

It is the correct part. Look close in the instructions. One is plastic.

SkaterX

iTrader: (18)

Sorry i should have specified where my problem lies...

The part I am concerned about is the one where the hingpin can slide right through... in this kit i believe all the holders should only have a hole on one end for the hingpin.... in my case... i have 3 that only have a hole on one side... and 1 of them has a hole right through it....

Regards,

evaa

iTrader: (7)

i beleive this is true only with the front bulkheads as the rear bulkheads do not require the upper a-arms.

GUYS: need some help, i'll try running my FOC with the short arm conversion tom, can u give me an idea what droop i should use (f/R)? should i use the recommended droop settings for the FOC c-hub or the FK? tanx.

Manfredo

I recently bought a used T1R and I am thinking of converting it to the short A-arms. What stuff (except for the arms...) do I need to do this ??

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

I found that the T1R chassis doesn't work that well with the short arms. The droop screws sit too far out on the chassis and flexes too much. So the droop is changing. You'll have to use internal shock limiters.

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

Nobody wants these things. A couple of weeks ago people were looking for them...I have them...brand new never used.

Vegetto

Hey guys,

I'm about to order a T1 Factory Kit and I just need to know what else should I get for it, what doesn't it come with?
Example: Anti-Roll Bar Set?

Thanks guys for your time..

lazyboy

extra diff and spring set and thats about it

lazyboy

RCchica

It just comes with a front one way so I think that you should buy a regular diff for the front in case you dont want to always run a one way..

S-T-R-l-K-E-R

yo veggie - i got a FK and it rocks!!!! i was able to keep up with the mod guys using a 19t in our track!!! all i bought was a front swaybar thats all. i have been running it for about 2 weeks now and thank god i havent broken a single thing =)

the settings that was recommended by the manual kinda made my car spinout so i downloaded the cyruls set-up for the reedy race held last month. www.cefx.net the car was totally hooked up!!!

Vegetto

Thanks guys!!

Does anyone have a good indoor carpet setup?

I'm running Mod, the track is small and twisty...

Thanks guys

Robfo

I run a factory team indoors on carpet with rubber tyres -

Front
Dark blue springs with 30wt oil 2 holes open. Shocks mounted in the middle hole at the top.
Middle roll centre position on bulkhead, standard castor 1deg camber 0deg toe in.

Rear
Light blue springs with 30wt oil 2 holes open. Shocks mounted in the middle position at the top and outer hole at the bottom.
Middle roll centre position on bulkhead, 2deg camber, 2 deg toe in.

I run a one way pulley at the front and a loose rear diff (the diff is set properly but as loose as it will go without slipping), so the car is a little more forgiving in the low speed tight turns or if the grip is very low.

I run pits D20 wets because we have to run treaded tyres at the club i race at. I run my cells at the back next to each other.

Hope this helps, my car carries huge amounts of corner speed!

scmicromike

iTrader: (3)

cant remember how many times this has been covered but is anyone running different shocks on their T1R or FK. I am looking at tamiya or HPI shocks. I need something with aluminum bodies and I am not sure about x-ray aluminum. thanks.

Coney

Why, isnt the Xray Alu Shock Bodies any good?


Coney

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Coney,

The aluminum shocks are good-but the plastic are smoother. Even the Team Serpent gas drivers only use the aluminum shock in HOT weather.