55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
12-10-2008, 01:51 PM
#6316
No offense to Murfdogg motors. But what exactly is he doing to tune a brushless motor? About the only potential that I see is 1. Testing to make sure it's not a dud. 2. Replacing the bearings with ceramics (which I doubt they're doing)
Would be interested in knowing.
Paul
Would be interested in knowing.
Paul
12-10-2008, 02:11 PM
#6317
No offense to Murfdogg motors. But what exactly is he doing to tune a brushless motor? About the only potential that I see is 1. Testing to make sure it's not a dud. 2. Replacing the bearings with ceramics (which I doubt they're doing)
Would be interested in knowing.
Paul
Would be interested in knowing.
Paul
12-10-2008, 02:22 PM
#6318
No offense to Murfdogg motors. But what exactly is he doing to tune a brushless motor? About the only potential that I see is 1. Testing to make sure it's not a dud. 2. Replacing the bearings with ceramics (which I doubt they're doing)
Would be interested in knowing.
Paul
Would be interested in knowing.
Paul
His 17.5 was the fastest motor at the recent truck race at Hot Rod hobbies and the Nationals this year. He does alot of testing which has paid off.
I do have a Murfdogg 6.5 bl that he did that is just rediculous off the bottom end.
If you want to contact him to ask him go on the team forum and ask. His name is Matt.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/team-com...-thread-7.html
Adjusting the timeing is one thing but that is a pretty standard adjustment that helps.
12-10-2008, 06:19 PM
#6319
improve balance in the turn
very predictable and easier to aim out of the turn.
extra high speed steering that the weighted car does not have and needs bad....
Traction is improved, more side bite & specially forward bite
Agree though, so far its seems a bit bumpier , not all that bad though...
Then after all that above ....
JUMPS
The jumps become easier to clear and landing`s smoother, biggest change you notice about this set-up.
Rather say for a light set-up , this one is as good as the weighted car, on par for sure...
please , not trying to shoot you down Scott . Enjoyed hearing your impressions very much...
12-11-2008, 06:54 AM
#6320
Thanks WC, I will try that setup. On the rear camber link it calls for 1 .030 spacer on the bulkhead, can I assume that's with the newer bulkhead with the .060 built in?
12-11-2008, 01:06 PM
#6322
Front
Ft ball stud .060 , I`m using .090 (more = smoother steering)
30 Gt-2 Caster block , axle in the middle
Ft camber
A hole caster block & #1 on tower
Ft shock
#2 hole shock tower & I hole on arm
35W #2 piston , .030 limiter, brown spring, Thread bottom shock eyelet all the way
Rear
Drill 4th hole on tower next to hole #1
camber
rear ball stud .030 #1 hole & B hole on rear hub
rear shock
4th hole on tower, I hole on arm
30w #2 piston, silver spring .060 limiter
rear Hub forward on arm
2 anti squat
CvD`s
.060 bump steer
JConcept gold compound Bar Code ft & rear tire, 3/4 rear insert ft tire & standard insert in rear
Trinity Buggy Grip
Ft arm level & rear dogbone level
Lrp X-11 10.5 78/26
Reedy 5000 Li-Po
Lrp Competition ESC
3/16 off set motor plate ( More on this coming )
Note :
remove all ballast including 1 1/2 oz on rear
you can use 7gram on receiver side to off set ESC weight if you like
Ft ball stud .060 , I`m using .090 (more = smoother steering)
30 Gt-2 Caster block , axle in the middle
Ft camber
A hole caster block & #1 on tower
Ft shock
#2 hole shock tower & I hole on arm
35W #2 piston , .030 limiter, brown spring, Thread bottom shock eyelet all the way
Rear
Drill 4th hole on tower next to hole #1
camber
rear ball stud .030 #1 hole & B hole on rear hub
rear shock
4th hole on tower, I hole on arm
30w #2 piston, silver spring .060 limiter
rear Hub forward on arm
2 anti squat
CvD`s
.060 bump steer
JConcept gold compound Bar Code ft & rear tire, 3/4 rear insert ft tire & standard insert in rear
Trinity Buggy Grip
Ft arm level & rear dogbone level
Lrp X-11 10.5 78/26
Reedy 5000 Li-Po
Lrp Competition ESC
3/16 off set motor plate ( More on this coming )
Note :
remove all ballast including 1 1/2 oz on rear
you can use 7gram on receiver side to off set ESC weight if you like
12-11-2008, 01:12 PM
#6323
For hard pack clay ...
and a 5000 Reedy Li-Po ....
Its a brand new set-up , and not developed by me.
I stole it from a Ae factory team driver just last week end....
he got it last Tuesday...
I`v use ballast & Li-Po for years until I drove my B-4 set-up this way ....
Anyone who has`nt tried this will be thanking me next week big time....
Strongly recommend you guys try ....
and a 5000 Reedy Li-Po ....
Its a brand new set-up , and not developed by me.
I stole it from a Ae factory team driver just last week end....
he got it last Tuesday...
I`v use ballast & Li-Po for years until I drove my B-4 set-up this way ....
Anyone who has`nt tried this will be thanking me next week big time....
Strongly recommend you guys try ....
12-11-2008, 06:49 PM
#6325
meh, I've had it since summer, just no time to try it...
Here's my variation of the set-up. The track that I was running on was a little slick.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3117/...58bdfc44_o.jpg
The standard set-up has these changes-
Front camber link shims -2
Anti Squat - 2
Rear Oil -30
Standard Rear Arm Length
Rear Hub Position -Middle
Here's my variation of the set-up. The track that I was running on was a little slick.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3117/...58bdfc44_o.jpg
The standard set-up has these changes-
Front camber link shims -2
Anti Squat - 2
Rear Oil -30
Standard Rear Arm Length
Rear Hub Position -Middle
12-12-2008, 12:16 AM
#6326
Just picked up a FTB4 and was wondering what digital servo you recommend for the buggy.
12-12-2008, 12:32 AM
#6327
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Racing: 150 oz/in @~.10s @6volts, metal gears.
Bashing (not my specialty but): 100oz/in @~.15s @ 6volts, metal gears if you can swing it price wise.
JR, Futaba and Hitec all make really good servos.
12-12-2008, 02:54 AM
#6328
Thanks Adam I'll be racing it.
12-12-2008, 04:44 AM
#6329
The ACE/AE 1015 or 1313, Futaba BLS451, etc. Just as Adam posted above. You don't want to fast. These things can be twitchy enough as it is. I would keep it above 0.10, better yet would be a 0.12 transit time. Not a huge difference and probably not enough to really feel. It's more of a mental thing I think.
I'm using a Futaba 9351 in mine because I had it kicking around.
I'm using a Futaba 9351 in mine because I had it kicking around.