nitro rookie

Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone could tell what to look for in a pipe.
I have the 710 with a stock Rex RER3 and a RB mods Rex RER3. I was running
a Skyline racing pipe but it got beat up pretty bad this weekend, so I want to try something else now. Any ideas would be great.
Thanks

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

keep the Skyline pipe , just fill it up with water and put it over night in the freezer, it will be almost as good as new.

InitialD

You could try Nova varients of the inline pipes... You cannot go wrong with that.

InitialD

going4#1 and jag are correct. Red is softer than black. I find the red more consistent.

InitialD

Meshing problem with the 61T spur. But I think that has already improved with the new batch of silver coloured 16T pinions. No problems so far with my 16T/61T combo.

InitialD

If you're having this problem when running the front diff, then tightening the front diff will give you the stability like what Julius has mentioned.

Please make sure that the front or rear diff is built correctly in the first place and make sure that they do not slip. Refer to Julius' article on building the diffs correctly.

No problems here. Mesh it slightly tighter. You should be ok.

[QUOTE=jag]I made a mistake last time out by tightening both diffs at the same time. If 0 = no collar and 10 = locked, then I had the front around 7 and the rear around 6. Does that make any sense? I didn't like it there so I went down to around 5 front and 3 rear.

Try a front diff setting of about 6 to 7 and a rear diff setting of about 2 or 3 as a relative comparison.

I suggest NOT to try this... But if you have a lot of time in your hands, you could give it a go. No promises on clutch improvement in the long run.

In Florida? I find that difficult to believe...

Oh, they will let you see what you need to see and doctor it for those that you need not have to see. (j/k)

DS Motorsport

iTrader: (2)

it would be great if there is a tool to measure the tightness on the diff.
i found one way to measure it: measure the gap with some calipers that is in the diff clamp. How tighter the diff, how smaller the gap on the clamp.
It's not perfect, but i as a rookie driver i do'nt have the experience to feel if the diff is set right.

But a real tool for it can be made i think. just have something you can attach at the place where the wheels normally go. And than you turn the diff and the device measures the amount op power needed to turn it one full cycle.
Something like that could work i think.

but i also got a question. I recently bought a new set of shocks because of breaking both front shocks. With the old ones i just fill them till the top, screw the lid on and the excessive oil will bleed out. But when i do that with the new ones, they are still too full, i can't compress them.
So then i just filled them halfway but than they are full of air, so how to fill the shocks correctly? The only change with the old shocks is that i now got the red bladders in them.

_cyclops_

I think a torque wrench would work.. just put it on the wheel nut, and hold one wheel, then just see when the torque wrench slips... but.. then again.. torque wrenches are expensive, and do they make them that small with that such small presure changes?

ReneC help us out here, make something :P

_cyclops_

Push the piston halfway in the shock and then screw on the cap...

jag

Be careful if you do this. I wrap some zip ties around it and check on it every hour. If you leave it too long it can split the pipe.

jag

I think you are on to something here. You can get a torque wrench that measures in in/lbs and that would probably work. I may pick one up and see if it works.

jag

jag

[QUOTE=InitialD]If you're having this problem when running the front diff, then tightening the front diff will give you the stability like what Julius has mentioned.

Please make sure that the front or rear diff is built correctly in the first place and make sure that they do not slip. Refer to Julius' article on building the diffs correctly.



No problems here. Mesh it slightly tighter. You should be ok.


I will experiment with tightening the front diff alone to see how it effects the rear bite. I believe that the diffs are built correctly. They did not slip when I built them but I may pull them out to check. Is Julius' article in the FAQ?

I'm not going to mess with the gearing just yet. I rebuilt the clutch, again, yesterday. I did cut, drill and screw the flyweights (what a pain) and I switched to a black clutch. The yellow clutch was wearing very badly. It has been very hot out and I have yellow particles all over my car after every run. The yellow clutch also wore unevenly. I didn't notice any wobble in the assembly. I replaced all of it anyway.

Believe it or not, Mugen is very popular around here. There are 3 guys that I have racing against that all have them.

Thanks,
jag

_cyclops_

well, try it, let us know if it works.. it might be a good base to start developing a real tool for this...

_cyclops_

[QUOTE=jag]
I noticed that the diff get's a little loser when you just had build it and raced it.... so, it might slip now.....

also, don't try to many things in once, with what you have done with the clutch, nice, but don't push alll the options at once

jag

I will let you know but it will only help if someone else (who knows what they are doing... D or Julius) has one also. Otherwise I won't have anything to compare it to.