Sow&Steady

You're right but remember also that there is a point of diminishing returns. Too much of one thing makes it worse.

GoldFinger

When my engine was powerfull enough to overcome the 1.2~1.6mm clutch tension (centax2 spring), I never use more than .5 mm clutch gap.
More than that, i was immediately feels there is empty spot on my finger.
So, what i do 1st is set the gap then play with tension.

Sn8, you are absolutely right about the force explanation.
On centax2 (705) that theory is correct more gap = more punch somehow on centax3 like uncle Sow mentioned there is limit on that.
And the limit is very tight (remember when we are using black shoe on centax3) that makes Centax3 is very unique comparing to others 1/10 centax system.

InitialD

Hi Paul, it's the same part number if I'm not wrong. Serpent always makes running changes to their parts and retain the same part numbering system.

Yes, the colour is silver. Not bronze / brown or black in colour which is the old one. But don't worry too much. Almost all the stock in the shops should already have the newer silver coloured ones.

InitialD

Bro, to tell you the truth, I have actually not much experience changing to the new yellow clutch shoes because I've only changed it once from the stock original black one ! It's still the same old yellow shoes I'm using when it first came out.

Anyway, I did remember the yellow dust coming out when I first installed it. Perhaps when the yellow shoes are new, the surface is a little soft. Now after much usage, the yellow shoes surface is very hard. Maybe when it's new, it needs some kind of a running in period before it works correctly.

I may need to get and change the yellow shoe and see if the same thing happens...

InitialD

That's why the idea of reducing end play after the clutch is installed is very important. Less end play (0.1mm or so), you make the axial force more bearable for the thrust bearing. If there's a lot of end play, the thrust bearing will be susceptible to failure even at lower axial force.

InitialD

No idea on that but the heat here in Malaysia is definitely hotter than in FL. I find the yellow shoes grip better but then not necessarily better for low traction tracks. High traction would be best because most power from the engine gets efficiently transferred to the wheels.

InitialD

How do you mean when you say you wore out the clutch shoes? The shoes not usable anymore? If that's the case, then something is definitely wrong.

InitialD

Strange. It sounds like either you have a lot of end play that makes the clutch bell wobbly or that the clutch bell itself is warped !

I've warped about 2 clutch bells already due to operator error. You increase the chances of warping the clutch bell when you do not use the right tools to hold the clutch bell when opening / locking the pinions.

InitialD

NP. Just make sure the shocks are not leaking from the top (which means the rubber membrane is not seated correctly) or if it's leaking from the bottom side (which means either you forgot to lock in the bottom side cap or that the small o ring is busted).

InitialD

When you say it jams at max wheel lock, you mean the dogbones get stuck halfway out and in the wheelaxles, right? And that your steering cannot move to return to neutral position, right?

The idea is NOT to let the steering servo travel at full lock if possible. Look at somewhere else in the setup if you require more turn in.

What front trackwidth are you running?

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

I've wore out a yellow clutch shoe before.......A run away car and the marshal step on the car to catch it and hold it down for awhile to burn up the shoe. LOL
Now I have a red shoe and love it!!

InitialD

Red rulon shoes?

Darth Vader

Is there such a thing as red clucth shoes for 710???

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

There is one however, it's who you know to how to get one.

Delta only made a limited supply for a special order.... not sure how many are left up for grabs

RoyU

iTrader: (2)

Got my red clutch shoes from Motorman. Don't know if he has any left