Serpent 710
09-22-2005, 10:16 AM
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
So you're nearly there because that's usually how they behave i.e. for the same engine tune, if the clutch response is fast, the punch is less and vice versa. I would use the one that has better punch and then tune the engine to give best low-end. Don't forget the tyres ... 
I wasn't watching too closely because the week long Euros gave me aggro every day, mainly my engines. Julius definitely shaved them and used them ON the pins.
I wasn't watching too closely because the week long Euros gave me aggro every day, mainly my engines. Julius definitely shaved them and used them ON the pins.
"I wasn't watching too closely..." He probably video taped Julius while he was doing it. 
I thought that cutting a clutch into 3rds is too light for flyweights. I tried that with a black clutch and it wouldn't apply enough force to lock-up the clutch. All I got from that setup was a lot of yellow dust all over my car.
09-22-2005, 11:36 AM
First of all, use the stock weights and yellow shoe. 0.7mm gap and the spring set so the clutch will engage at high rpm but not so tight the clutch slips for more than half a meter when accelerating out of slow corners.
The clutch I made for Slow is a cut yellow shoe for flyweights. The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.
I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!
The clutch I made for Slow is a cut yellow shoe for flyweights. The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.
I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!
09-22-2005, 12:30 PM
Originally Posted by Julius
I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!
I have the same clutch setup as Meister and getting the correct setup required no effort and very little time.
Cheers, Mark.
09-22-2005, 12:56 PM
Originally Posted by Julius
First of all, use the stock weights and yellow shoe. 0.7mm gap and the spring set so the clutch will engage at high rpm but not so tight the clutch slips for more than half a meter when accelerating out of slow corners.
The clutch I made for Slow is a cut yellow shoe for flyweights. The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.
I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!
The clutch I made for Slow is a cut yellow shoe for flyweights. The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.
I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!
09-22-2005, 12:58 PM
Originally Posted by jag
Keep him talking guys... we will have that clutch setup soon enough. "I wasn't watching too closely..." He probably video taped Julius while he was doing it.
"I wasn't watching too closely..." He probably video taped Julius while he was doing it. I didn't video tape the part he was doing the cutting and clutch assembly ... the scene you see in the "Euros 05 Scenes" video at 3Hobby.net was when he was working on Joe_K's car.
09-22-2005, 12:59 PM
.. double post ... 
Last edited by Sow&Steady; 09-22-2005 at 11:34 PM.
09-22-2005, 01:01 PM
Originally Posted by markp27
I've been testing my Mega this evening at my local track ...
09-22-2005, 06:10 PM
uh oh...deja vu.
that can only mean a glitch in the Matrix or OLD AGE!...
that can only mean a glitch in the Matrix or OLD AGE!...
09-22-2005, 10:23 PM
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Julius
The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.
09-22-2005, 11:35 PM
Originally Posted by crashed_1
uh oh...deja vu.
that can only mean a glitch in the Matrix or OLD AGE!...
that can only mean a glitch in the Matrix or OLD AGE!...
09-23-2005, 12:18 AM
Just posted my RCC Shock Absorbers Review at 3hobby.
You gotta get these!
You gotta get these!
09-23-2005, 07:49 AM
Originally Posted by Julius
First of all, use the stock weights and yellow shoe. 0.7mm gap and the spring set so the clutch will engage at high rpm but not so tight the clutch slips for more than half a meter when accelerating out of slow corners.
The clutch I made for Slow is a cut yellow shoe for flyweights. The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.
I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!
The clutch I made for Slow is a cut yellow shoe for flyweights. The reason I cut a shoe is that I wanted the flyweights to hing the other way round. If you look at the stock weights they "trail" the rotation. I cut the shoe so the weights oppose the rotation. The reasoning is that opposing the rotation the weights will open more easily when the engine accelerates. that makes the clutch snap a bit more when you run a late engagement.
I like the feel of the "opposing weights" and make all my clutches that way. But Meister Salven uses stock weights and a yellow shoe as he likes that better and it is a lot less work!
Is the yellow clutch shoe better than the black when used this way for the flyweights?
Does Meister Salven have his flyweights in the forward or trailing position?
Thanks,
jag
09-24-2005, 02:04 PM
So after a long silence, I gotta ask, Salven builds the clutch just like the manual suggests? That would be way too easy....
09-24-2005, 07:44 PM
..and so did Mark Green.
09-25-2005, 01:29 AM
Tech Regular
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: The Milkyway/Planet Earth/Europe/Sweden/Skåne/Malmö
Posts: 349
I've driven one season with the clutch built as the manual described and it has worked flawlessly, though I haven't used any high-power engine I guess it would work fine with one of those too..
BTW: Fmolzer, the race was horrible for me
After checking times I could have been around 5:th place in the main, but my engine gave up after the first qaulifying round. I disassembled it and noticed that I almost could push the piston through the sleeve with my bare hands. There was also a lot of play in the front bearing. So, if you will order some Mega:s, I'm in on one too 
By the way, how was your trip to Mexico?
BTW: Fmolzer, the race was horrible for me
After checking times I could have been around 5:th place in the main, but my engine gave up after the first qaulifying round. I disassembled it and noticed that I almost could push the piston through the sleeve with my bare hands. There was also a lot of play in the front bearing. So, if you will order some Mega:s, I'm in on one too By the way, how was your trip to Mexico?