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Old 03-01-2008, 08:25 AM
  #11101  
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any other tuning/build tips?
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Old 03-01-2008, 08:27 AM
  #11102  
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now that the site is working again I guess I'm back.....LOL I will be posting pics of my car (finally) later on today. The wiring was done by Scotty B. (the local HB fast guy) Now that I have one he will be #2 hhhhhhhhhhmmmmmm!

We used shoe goo to mount our servo's to the chassis. He says that he has never had one come out and I've seen him have some crashes that should crack a chassis in two and the servo stayed in place. All that's left is for me to paint up a body with my usual colors and go racing.
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Old 03-01-2008, 09:54 AM
  #11103  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
now that the site is working again I guess I'm back.....LOL I will be posting pics of my car (finally) later on today. The wiring was done by Scotty B. (the local HB fast guy) Now that I have one he will be #2 hhhhhhhhhhmmmmmm!

We used shoe goo to mount our servo's to the chassis. He says that he has never had one come out and I've seen him have some crashes that should crack a chassis in two and the servo stayed in place. All that's left is for me to paint up a body with my usual colors and go racing.
about time!

I have a question, I bought some shoe goo in a red tube, and everyone at SWR uses the tube that's white. Is there a difference? Because on the tube doesnt say it sticks to plastic...
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Old 03-01-2008, 10:01 AM
  #11104  
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO
about time!

I have a question, I bought some shoe goo in a red tube, and everyone at SWR uses the tube that's white. Is there a difference? Because on the tube doesnt say it sticks to plastic...
I don't know what Scotty used for the servo but the shoe goo I always use is red on the front and white on the back. It says original formula in white writing on top of an orange start looking thing in the upper right hand corner.
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Old 03-01-2008, 10:08 AM
  #11105  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
I don't know what Scotty used for the servo but the shoe goo I always use is red on the front and white on the back. It says original formula in white writing on top of an orange start looking thing in the upper right hand corner.
Yeah, so the main color of the bottle is white?

Mine is all red with white letters...
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Old 03-01-2008, 10:14 AM
  #11106  
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all the 'goo is the same...I've used the "shoe goo" (in the red tube) and other "goo" in the green tube...

its all the same...

and I'VE NEVER LOST A SERVO that was mounted with any of the "goo's"

this is from TC to 12th scale to 18th scale off-road and 10th off-road the stuff just sticks that well...

I have a little trick to get it to set better

1) take a thin piece of servo tape and run it down the center of the servo
2) apply the goo to boh side of the tape
3) peel the back off the take and stick it too the chassis...

the tape allows the servo to stick to the chassis and not move around while the goo dries Plus it also gives you an area to pry the servo off when its time to change the servo
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Old 03-01-2008, 11:00 AM
  #11107  
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Originally Posted by k_bojar
all the 'goo is the same...I've used the "shoe goo" (in the red tube) and other "goo" in the green tube...

its all the same...

and I'VE NEVER LOST A SERVO that was mounted with any of the "goo's"

this is from TC to 12th scale to 18th scale off-road and 10th off-road the stuff just sticks that well...

I have a little trick to get it to set better

1) take a thin piece of servo tape and run it down the center of the servo
2) apply the goo to boh side of the tape
3) peel the back off the take and stick it too the chassis...

the tape allows the servo to stick to the chassis and not move around while the goo dries Plus it also gives you an area to pry the servo off when its time to change the servo
Thats a good idea! Never thought of using the servo tape

Good to know its all the same

Thanks!
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Old 03-01-2008, 02:12 PM
  #11108  
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What is the proper method for measuring droop? At my local carpet track everyone uses the "over ride height" method. This is where we measure ride height first, then lift the chassis up and push the ride height gauge further into the chassis, where it stops is the droop over ride height. Typically between 1-3mm.

I was told this is inaccurate? So I tried measuring with a actually droop gauge and found that my right arm was 1mm different than the left!

I set my droop with the droop gauge on the rear of the car, unfortunatlely the way the alloy c-hubs are designed, the set screw securing the outer hinge pin disables me from getting an accurate reading!
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Old 03-01-2008, 02:22 PM
  #11109  
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Use the end of the H-arm.
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Old 03-01-2008, 02:52 PM
  #11110  
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Use a gauge to set your droop, then once it is set, lay your car flat on the setup board and check the height of your wishbones from a certain point with some calipers. This ensures it is set even left to right. Having it set accurate left to right is just as important as it is front to rear.
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Old 03-01-2008, 03:03 PM
  #11111  
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All adjustments are important. To me, the left to right accuracy is more important than front to rear. If the left to right isn't equal you will have different handling characteristics for turning right and left. This can be a real handfull to drive!
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Old 03-01-2008, 03:12 PM
  #11112  
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Thank you Shaun and Matt........ I am happy to see that I have been doing something right for a change.
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Old 03-01-2008, 04:55 PM
  #11113  
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You cant be that bad Lazer Guy, youve got a cyclone!!!!
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Old 03-01-2008, 05:19 PM
  #11114  
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hotbodiesonline.com is now selling genuine HB/HPI parts directly to us now! FINALLY!
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Old 03-01-2008, 09:03 PM
  #11115  
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here are my pics without a motor because I can't decide if I want to run the 3.5 or the 4.5 for the first time out
Notice the custom heat sink on the GTB spread spektrum
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-p3010549.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-p3010550.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-p3010551.jpg  
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