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Old 02-29-2008, 11:03 PM   #11101
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hey hiro, don't forget those parts!!! - karl





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Old 02-29-2008, 11:24 PM   #11102
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nice pics! that should have been added to the instruction manual.
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Old 03-01-2008, 12:17 AM   #11103
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Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
why and how would a servo make the chassis tweak?
The Futaba servos have angled ear tubs. (not straight) when the screws for the servo mounts tighten up, the chassis will be tweaked a little bit.
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Old 03-01-2008, 12:21 AM   #11104
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so if you just use Hara's servo install method you avoid the tweak right? as long as you can see light between the servo case and the chassis its ok?
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Old 03-01-2008, 04:30 AM   #11105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karlo511 View Post
hey hiro, don't forget those parts!!! - karl





Hey, do you have a working link to the hara build guide? Mine doesn't seem to work any more.
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Old 03-01-2008, 07:59 AM   #11106
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click on the hara setting button on the left side and then text by the #'s 1-6 at the top of the page. you'll need to translate it though.
http://www.miragejapan.co.jp/
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Old 03-01-2008, 08:38 AM   #11107
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Thanks for that.
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Old 03-01-2008, 09:25 AM   #11108
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any other tuning/build tips?
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Old 03-01-2008, 09:27 AM   #11109
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now that the site is working again I guess I'm back.....LOL I will be posting pics of my car (finally) later on today. The wiring was done by Scotty B. (the local HB fast guy) Now that I have one he will be #2 hhhhhhhhhhmmmmmm!

We used shoe goo to mount our servo's to the chassis. He says that he has never had one come out and I've seen him have some crashes that should crack a chassis in two and the servo stayed in place. All that's left is for me to paint up a body with my usual colors and go racing.
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Old 03-01-2008, 10:54 AM   #11110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
now that the site is working again I guess I'm back.....LOL I will be posting pics of my car (finally) later on today. The wiring was done by Scotty B. (the local HB fast guy) Now that I have one he will be #2 hhhhhhhhhhmmmmmm!

We used shoe goo to mount our servo's to the chassis. He says that he has never had one come out and I've seen him have some crashes that should crack a chassis in two and the servo stayed in place. All that's left is for me to paint up a body with my usual colors and go racing.
about time!

I have a question, I bought some shoe goo in a red tube, and everyone at SWR uses the tube that's white. Is there a difference? Because on the tube doesnt say it sticks to plastic...
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Old 03-01-2008, 11:01 AM   #11111
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about time!

I have a question, I bought some shoe goo in a red tube, and everyone at SWR uses the tube that's white. Is there a difference? Because on the tube doesnt say it sticks to plastic...
I don't know what Scotty used for the servo but the shoe goo I always use is red on the front and white on the back. It says original formula in white writing on top of an orange start looking thing in the upper right hand corner.
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Old 03-01-2008, 11:08 AM   #11112
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Quote:
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I don't know what Scotty used for the servo but the shoe goo I always use is red on the front and white on the back. It says original formula in white writing on top of an orange start looking thing in the upper right hand corner.
Yeah, so the main color of the bottle is white?

Mine is all red with white letters...
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Old 03-01-2008, 11:14 AM   #11113
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all the 'goo is the same...I've used the "shoe goo" (in the red tube) and other "goo" in the green tube...

its all the same...

and I'VE NEVER LOST A SERVO that was mounted with any of the "goo's"

this is from TC to 12th scale to 18th scale off-road and 10th off-road the stuff just sticks that well...

I have a little trick to get it to set better

1) take a thin piece of servo tape and run it down the center of the servo
2) apply the goo to boh side of the tape
3) peel the back off the take and stick it too the chassis...

the tape allows the servo to stick to the chassis and not move around while the goo dries Plus it also gives you an area to pry the servo off when its time to change the servo
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Old 03-01-2008, 12:00 PM   #11114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
all the 'goo is the same...I've used the "shoe goo" (in the red tube) and other "goo" in the green tube...

its all the same...

and I'VE NEVER LOST A SERVO that was mounted with any of the "goo's"

this is from TC to 12th scale to 18th scale off-road and 10th off-road the stuff just sticks that well...

I have a little trick to get it to set better

1) take a thin piece of servo tape and run it down the center of the servo
2) apply the goo to boh side of the tape
3) peel the back off the take and stick it too the chassis...

the tape allows the servo to stick to the chassis and not move around while the goo dries Plus it also gives you an area to pry the servo off when its time to change the servo
Thats a good idea! Never thought of using the servo tape

Good to know its all the same

Thanks!
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Old 03-01-2008, 03:12 PM   #11115
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What is the proper method for measuring droop? At my local carpet track everyone uses the "over ride height" method. This is where we measure ride height first, then lift the chassis up and push the ride height gauge further into the chassis, where it stops is the droop over ride height. Typically between 1-3mm.

I was told this is inaccurate? So I tried measuring with a actually droop gauge and found that my right arm was 1mm different than the left!

I set my droop with the droop gauge on the rear of the car, unfortunatlely the way the alloy c-hubs are designed, the set screw securing the outer hinge pin disables me from getting an accurate reading!
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