Tomie

iTrader: (38)

how many hits/races before you rebuild your diffs?

Mine lasted up to aprx 15 hits (5mins/race) 20 hits became a little to notchy.

ittjv

iTrader: (32)

I found this thrust bearing. It's from JAAD Racing and is ceramic nitride. I couldn't find where to buy it on the net though.

http://www.jaadracing.com/

peejay

According to Ed (Tryhard) Clarks website Precision RC is the place to go http://www.precisionrc.com. However, I didn't see any reference to the thrust bearing.

rampal

iTrader: (4)

depends..... I'm running a 3.5 brushless on asphalt with nitro foams.... 5 5min runs tops.... but I have put the JAAD carbon stickers on the pulley on this last rebuild and I've run 6 and it is still smooth!! let's see if I can make 12....

nikkiesteban

iTrader: (5)

what's the stock ride height in the manual? I tried to set my 05ms at stock settings. what's your ride height in stock setting? My 05ms front ride height is about 2mm and the rear is 5mm. i dont think its normal.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

That looks like a new product, so I wonder if precision have got hold of it yet.... maybe worth emailing them regarding the avaliability.

Regards
Ed

Tomie

iTrader: (38)

oh ok thanks Im running 13.5 and i thought it was to quick to rebuild a diff after 10-15 hits. Because I run my car 8-9 Times including practice (5mins run) in one race day. This is getting a little to expensive hehe

rampal

iTrader: (4)

I never see any mention to stock ride height on the manual... I run mine 5.5mm front 6mm rear...

rampal

iTrader: (4)

Last sunday we run the car 3 classification rounds and 3 finals. the diff is still ok with the diff cover. last time I've run without it, in the last final the diff felt gritty and not smooth... and Either you have 2 spare diffs, or you don't have time to rebuild it.... I hope I can run at least two race days plus some practice with the covers.... it all depends on how dirt is your track... hehehe

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

what do you do exactly when you rebuild your diff? replace all the parts? i only replace the rings if BOTH sides of the diff rings have a groove already. if i do replace the diff rings, i replace the diff balls also.

for club racing when i rebuild a diff, i just clean everything, regrease, check the rings, (if worn, flip them over). and adjust it. thats it.

i'm not sure how that is making it expensive?

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

the rings can be reused many times. I use 400 grit sandpaper to sand the groove off. I put the ring on the diff halve that doesn't have the protrusion on it, then use that as a holder to hold the ring in place as I move it in a circular motion on a piece of 400 grit sand paper on a flat surface. 600 works too. That also gives the diff balls more of a grippable surface so you don't have to tighten your diff as tightly. That puts less stress on your diff balls and thrust bearing.

slomo

In the past, I always skipped this part, but this really helps with smooth diff action. Now Im a believer.

Tomie

iTrader: (38)

hehe Im just thinking all the other cost like tires and diff rebuild cost every wkend.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

i only rebuild my diff id say after 20 runs? tires.. i run them "6" times in race conditions before they become practice tires. since ive limited myself to one car and brushless.. all my $$$ goes to tires now.

lipo will help also when i get back into that. im just waiting until my current nimh packs finally die on me.

can't wait for Sat. BCR! stock here i come. got lots of things to try with my 05MS.

Xanavi_R34

iTrader: (7)

don't use the stock suspension setup... It is very low, as in too low... And yeah, the front is really higher than the rear if you're going to put it on stock manual setup... Always make your starting setup (or point) to 5.5mm rear and 5mm in front... Like what sir al said...