20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
01-23-2011, 09:52 AM
#1546
01-23-2011, 07:00 PM
#1547
01-23-2011, 07:46 PM
#1548
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
The belt has its narrow gap to go through without touching.
The track allows laptimes below 10s for 17,5t (non boost) and around 8,5s for modified. Here in Germany we don't have much permanent indoor tracks, because it is often to expensive (rent, heating,...) and mostly used in winter. So I am happy that this track is near my home.
I think the blue ring is for pressing the plastic servoarm around the servo pinion (I don't know the word in english) to prevent the arm from slipping?! I wasn't asking its benefit while mounting. I just use it and hope AE had a reason to produce it.
The track allows laptimes below 10s for 17,5t (non boost) and around 8,5s for modified. Here in Germany we don't have much permanent indoor tracks, because it is often to expensive (rent, heating,...) and mostly used in winter. So I am happy that this track is near my home.
I think the blue ring is for pressing the plastic servoarm around the servo pinion (I don't know the word in english) to prevent the arm from slipping?! I wasn't asking its benefit while mounting. I just use it and hope AE had a reason to produce it.
What's the German word for the servo pinion, I know some German so I should be able to translate it
01-24-2011, 03:34 AM
#1549
Tech Regular
i've had my tc6 since just before xmass and have been doing well with it at the local clubs, so this weekend i got my self a RS esc and a speed passion 13.5 and changed my gears for the 1st time to 72/33 witch i should be 4.36, the RS is set as out the box as i'm not going to get the hot wire just yet.
can someone tell me if i'm about right, as i've only just started racing after a long time off.
i race on a med size carpet and a small carpet track.
can someone tell me if i'm about right, as i've only just started racing after a long time off.
i race on a med size carpet and a small carpet track.
01-24-2011, 04:13 AM
#1550
Tech Initiate
this is probably a really simple and easy question to answer but I’m struggling with the belt tensioned part. to get 28 do I flip the diff bearing holder so the grooves are at the bottom or do you always keep the groves at the top?
Hopefully someone can explain for me please? I want to set 28 front and 6 rear.
Thanks
Hopefully someone can explain for me please? I want to set 28 front and 6 rear.
Thanks
01-24-2011, 04:49 AM
#1551
01-24-2011, 04:57 AM
#1552
Tech Initiate
thanks Daleburr
So to get 28 on the front left i count from 17 to 28 going from front of the car to rear and then on the right side i count 17 to 28 going from rear of the car to the front?
I don't have both cam positions pointing towards the rear?
Thanks
So to get 28 on the front left i count from 17 to 28 going from front of the car to rear and then on the right side i count 17 to 28 going from rear of the car to the front?
I don't have both cam positions pointing towards the rear?
Thanks
01-24-2011, 06:25 AM
#1553
@hanulec: What is the estimated benefit of using the TOP spool instead of the original slipper spool?
01-24-2011, 06:38 AM
#1554
I wouldn't worry about the exact position number; it's not something that can be copied from one car to another. The whole point of the adjusters is to account for belt stretch, part tolerance etc which will be different on each car (even when brand new).
Just pick the diff height you want and start with both the left and right cam in the middle tension slot. Then adjust as necessary to get the belt tension to feel right.
01-24-2011, 07:13 AM
#1555
You need to count in the same direction (e.g. rear to front of car) for both the left and the right, otherwise the diff won't be straight in the car.
I wouldn't worry about the exact position number; it's not something that can be copied from one car to another. The whole point of the adjusters is to account for belt stretch, part tolerance etc which will be different on each car (even when brand new).
Just pick the diff height you want and start with both the left and right cam in the middle tension slot. Then adjust as necessary to get the belt tension to feel right.
I wouldn't worry about the exact position number; it's not something that can be copied from one car to another. The whole point of the adjusters is to account for belt stretch, part tolerance etc which will be different on each car (even when brand new).
Just pick the diff height you want and start with both the left and right cam in the middle tension slot. Then adjust as necessary to get the belt tension to feel right.
But you still want the belt loose enough that it doesn't bind the drive system. As mentioned, set it for your car and monitor periodically.
01-24-2011, 10:02 AM
#1556
Tech Initiate
thanks guys, this is really what i needed. The manual was confusing me a bit after i read it over and over!
01-25-2011, 11:18 AM
#1557
dam uk model shops
can anyone tell me what if any drive shafts will fit the tc6, as i need the bits out of the AS31227: CVA Rebuild Kit, i have ordered this from 2 model shops that sed they had them in stock but did not!!!!!!!!!!! i'v been trying for a week now and am going to have to miss club night again! if i cant get some thing.
nigel
nigel
01-25-2011, 03:56 PM
#1558
can anyone tell me what if any drive shafts will fit the tc6, as i need the bits out of the AS31227: CVA Rebuild Kit, i have ordered this from 2 model shops that sed they had them in stock but did not!!!!!!!!!!! i'v been trying for a week now and am going to have to miss club night again! if i cant get some thing.
nigel
nigel
01-25-2011, 05:12 PM
#1559
Hi!
- a arms mount made from |------| to this /-----\ and big slop!, plastics move
outside
, no screw issue, I put longer ones, but it looks like blue part
is a little too long ..., and it move outside, I put car on track do 5 laps to
test it and ... it made me really angry, before run I must check it again ...,
- a arms mount made from |------| to this /-----\ and big slop!, plastics move
outside
, no screw issue, I put longer ones, but it looks like blue partis a little too long ..., and it move outside, I put car on track do 5 laps to
test it and ... it made me really angry, before run I must check it again ...,
I'm currently building my TC6 (taking quite a while to get everything perfect) and discovered a design/manufacturing issue here. The arm mount bushings need to be a really tight fit into the arm mounts. Otherwise the mounts will rotate around the bushings when fitted, which is what's happening to you (and was happening to mine on the bench).
The solution is to line the hole in the arm mount with superglue (CA), then allow it to dry for a couple of hours. Then when you fit the bushing it should be a tight fit into the mount, preventing anything rotating.
You also need to threadlock the arm mount screws, otherwise these can come undone in an impact.
Hope that helps!
The solution is to line the hole in the arm mount with superglue (CA), then allow it to dry for a couple of hours. Then when you fit the bushing it should be a tight fit into the mount, preventing anything rotating.
You also need to threadlock the arm mount screws, otherwise these can come undone in an impact.
Hope that helps!
This has become a major issue with my car. Can't get through a Qually or Main without at least 4 of the 8 coming loose. I'm going to try the superglue route and see where that gets. VERY frustrating!
....and yeah, I've cranked on the screws something crazy. It's as mentioned, the bushings are loose in the plastic arm mounts, and I believe that this is providing the slop necessary to work the mounts loose as the run progresses. The SCREWS don't come loose, the blue bushing doesn't move (scribed register marks on 'em to match marks on the screws), it's the plastic bushing itself that rotates! I even went to some older TC5 plastic arm mounts, same problem. Starts off dialed, ends up sloppy.
As for the arm mount screws, I replaced all of mine with longer ones. Only have to be careful with the front two with an old style AMB transponder. Newer(small) style clearance isn't an issue.
01-25-2011, 05:19 PM
#1560
Buckaroo, are you using the small "L" bend allen wrenches or a high quality hardened wrench to tighten the suspension mounts?
On my TC5, I used slightly longer 3mm cap screws (with the 2.5mm head), and so I did the same right from the first build on the TC6 and have had zero issues. If you use a high quality wrench and the bigger 2.5mm head screws, you can snug them up pretty tight. Costs about $3 but it works better for me.
Good luck!
On my TC5, I used slightly longer 3mm cap screws (with the 2.5mm head), and so I did the same right from the first build on the TC6 and have had zero issues. If you use a high quality wrench and the bigger 2.5mm head screws, you can snug them up pretty tight. Costs about $3 but it works better for me.
Good luck!