Originally Posted by ChadB.

I had some disappointment this last weekend with my 6.1 WE. Every single run that I did, I always came back in with at least one busted blade. I used up about every single blade I had in my box and wasn't sure if I was going to get through the entire weekend, then I would need to replace the outdrives on the spool because they would torn up as well. Does anyone else have these same problems I have? I have not had these issues with other older cars that I had which why I have some concerns.

Originally Posted by shan74

hi
having my 6.1 camberlink position v3 front and back has very little thread in the ballcups ,as it the longest setting for the camberlinks .is there a upgrade camberlink (longer)available .i heard someone at the track say that you can use the tc6 camberlinks as they are a bit longer .any help appreciated .
shan

Originally Posted by LEM C

Stock no problem. You'll go thru those blades and outdrives every run. Go with the AE slipper spool.

Originally Posted by YoDog

I can honestly say that I have never, ever broken a blade on either of my TC6.1 cars. is it possible that you are running the car too narrow? This can bind the drive shafts thus causing premature failure.

Originally Posted by CristianTabush

The blades break when you run with tracks with hard barriers, especially carpet tracks. This is not uncommon.

Originally Posted by CristianTabush

So sorry Rick, yes I did. Just getting ready to go on a family trip and totally dropped the ball. I'll set you up with something in a bit.

Originally Posted by YoDog

The first batch of servo saver cams are heading to the anodizer!
I got the fixturing figured out so I will be able to make more without much delay.
I'm a happy camper now!
The aluminum cam only weighs about 1 gram more than the plastic part. Just in case you were wondering.

Look! still got all my fingers

Originally Posted by LEM C

Stock no problem. In mod you'll go thru those blades and outdrives every run. Go with the AE slipper spool.

Originally Posted by Night

I have never broken a blade either. Maybe a bad setup?

Originally Posted by CristianTabush

Chad, have you tried our outdrives? They don't go through blades as much because the blade is not captured inside the outdrive like the stock units. We are out of stock until the end of the month, but they are much better than the stock units. Plus they last a very long time.

Originally Posted by bmannokc

Ready to place an order for one of these! After a few wrecks over the weekend it already cost me a servo... any idea on price yet?

Originally Posted by geeunit1014

Aluminum/titanium screws can cut ~20g. Make sure your wires (power wires & servo wires) are as short as possible, this can be 10-20g if your wires are long. Make sure you have a light weight body, in protoform bodies the LW versions are about 20g lighter, and your car drives better too

Originally Posted by jha07

My TC6.1 is under the 1380 gram roar limit. I had to add 14g to get it over 1380g. I'm running a light weight body and a tekin rs pro. Everything else on my car is pretty normal. I even have a heatsink and 2 fans.

Originally Posted by CristianTabush

The TC6.1 is a heavy car. A lot of it has to do with the construction of the A Arms and suspension blocks. It will be very hard to get it down to 1350, but aside from the Screws and body, 13AWG wire is more than enough for your 13.5 motor and will drop some grams.

We sell aluminum Ball ends for the TC6 which are lighter than what AE offers and can add up to 5-10G of weight savings too.

Lastly, I remove the upper plastic bumper brace on my cars and use a CF brace from Tamiya or some washers to hold the Foam bumper in place. While this puts the front end of the chassis at a bit of a risk, it does shave about 8G.



All in all I have gotten my RSD6 to about 1355-1360G Ready to Race with a 4.5 Motor (heavier than stock). It's not easy, but it's doable.