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Team Associated TC6 Thread

Old 03-12-2013, 02:56 PM
  #8941  
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After reading a post about the weight of the TC6.1, I decided to weigh mine. I came in at 1,350 grams without the body. With the body I am at 1,500. From what I read I thought I would weigh more. Is this within the norm for this car?
Thanks
Rob
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 98NYFINESTVETTE
After reading a post about the weight of the TC6.1, I decided to weigh mine. I came in at 1,350 grams without the body. With the body I am at 1,500. From what I read I thought I would weigh more. Is this within the norm for this car?
Thanks
Rob
Mine's got the alumimum screw set, but otherwise stock.
Equiped with Protoform Lightweight Mazdaspeed6, Futaba low profile servo, KO 409S receiver, Viper VTX10R esc, Reedy Sonic 5.0 (no fan), Reedy 5500 lipo, Jaco rubber, transponder.

Weighs 1365g... stuck on 2 x 7gram weights and 1 penny to get over the 1380g limit by 2g.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:02 PM
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Mine weighed in at 1405g at last weekends Tasmanian titles event.

Using Hobbywing Justock esc, Trinity D3.5 17.5, spektrum s3000, Turnigy nanotech 5600 battery, sorex tires and std weight protoform Mazdaspeed 6. Std screws throughout, and a yeah racing fan mounted with a Reflex fan mount.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:15 PM
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My shock collars are still all the way up to get a 5 mm ride height front. I put some 3 mm shims to widen the car. What else can I do? I am using tamiya blue mica hard springs.
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:31 AM
  #8945  
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Originally Posted by adriang79
Mine weighed in at 1405g at last weekends Tasmanian titles event.

Using Hobbywing Justock esc, Trinity D3.5 17.5, spektrum s3000, Turnigy nanotech 5600 battery, sorex tires and std weight protoform Mazdaspeed 6. Std screws throughout, and a yeah racing fan mounted with a Reflex fan mount.
Originally Posted by 20967
Hey all
ln our race the minimun weight is 1350 gr.
My TC6.1 WC with Speed Passion 13.5, Cirtix Esc, Savox 1251 MG is about gr.900
Lipo NVISION 5500 - 90C 300 g
Body g 100
Sorex 36 g 120
Total weight 1420 g
Which is the weight of your cars, TC 6, TC6.1 and WC ready to run?
Other friends racers with XRay- Yokomo- Sakura add weight to achieve the minimum required. Any tips?
Thks
Enrico
Originally Posted by geeunit1014
Aluminum/titanium screws can cut ~20g. Make sure your wires (power wires & servo wires) are as short as possible, this can be 10-20g if your wires are long. Make sure you have a light weight body, in protoform bodies the LW versions are about 20g lighter, and your car drives better too
Originally Posted by jha07
My TC6.1 is under the 1380 gram roar limit. I had to add 14g to get it over 1380g. I'm running a light weight body and a tekin rs pro. Everything else on my car is pretty normal. I even have a heatsink and 2 fans.
Originally Posted by CristianTabush
The TC6.1 is a heavy car. A lot of it has to do with the construction of the A Arms and suspension blocks. It will be very hard to get it down to 1350, but aside from the Screws and body, 13AWG wire is more than enough for your 13.5 motor and will drop some grams.

We sell aluminum Ball ends for the TC6 which are lighter than what AE offers and can add up to 5-10G of weight savings too.

Lastly, I remove the upper plastic bumper brace on my cars and use a CF brace from Tamiya or some washers to hold the Foam bumper in place. While this puts the front end of the chassis at a bit of a risk, it does shave about 8G.



All in all I have gotten my RSD6 to about 1355-1360G Ready to Race with a 4.5 Motor (heavier than stock). It's not easy, but it's doable.
Originally Posted by 98NYFINESTVETTE
After reading a post about the weight of the TC6.1, I decided to weigh mine. I came in at 1,350 grams without the body. With the body I am at 1,500. From what I read I thought I would weigh more. Is this within the norm for this car?
Thanks
Rob
Working for reduce weight.
In my previous tip for the weight of my car I forgot to mention that I have built my new We with the frame of old TC6.1. Well I checked, weighed and thought and here's what you can do.

Chassis TC 6.1 gr 85 new chassis TC 6.1WE gr 68 -difference gr 17
Old body ( Nazda 2 Montech) painted with wing gr 110 - New (Nazda 2 Montech) in same condition gr 92 difference gr 18. I don't know the weight for Protoform body light.
My alluminium battery brace more strong and durable for two items gr 18 - the original Asso ( for two) gr 8 - difference gr 10
Steel screws under the chassis and for upper deck only for the rest titanium I gain around gr 6 -
RX Futaba 2.4 ghz 603ff gr 13 - Airtronics 471 FHSS or Sanwa gr 6.6 - Ko 409s gr 7.8 . Difference around gr 5/6 instead of mine.
Wire.
I have already shortened the series motor wire in 13 AGW - shortened and rewired the servo, rx, and switch unit .
Tires
Sorex 36 gr 120
Solaris Med gr 120
Ride RE 32 cod 26007 gr 112
LRP CPX for indoor gr 92
Well For the tires is a problem; in many race the tire is imposed and for the weight is impoossible to reduce but put every racers is in the same condition.
Instead we can work on the other parameters and, as explained by others, so we can lower the weight of our Asso.
Now my car working around screws, wires, chassis, battery arm I gained around gr 43 and the total weight now is gr 1374 without compromising strength and reliability.
Another via to reduce weight is to using new shorty lipo in stock class
as soon as Gens 4200 2s2p and other similar with a gain of about gr. 80 without touching anything. This new lipo's for stock is good. In fact, the average stock in the 5 minutes is about 2500 mha and the new lipo covers this power without any problem.
Thks at all.

Ps: any tip is appreciated - I posted the new photos of my car
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated TC6 Thread-dsc_0340a.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-dsc_0336a.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-dsc_0335a.jpg   Team Associated TC6 Thread-dsc_0334a.jpg  
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:02 AM
  #8946  
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My TC6.1 W.C. comes around with 1355gr. RTR.

Electronics:
- Sav÷x SC-1252MG
- LRP SPXzero
- LRP X12 10.5t
- #601 Reedy 6500mAh
- MRT transponder
- RX-461 receiver

Tires:
-VTEC CPX

Body:
- HB 66813 Mazda MPS Moore Speed (190mm lightweight)

Weighttuning:
- Aluminum screw set
- Ti Nitride Ballstuds

To compensate the heavy battery side I added 35gr. of weight on the left chassis side. This weight is already included in the RTR weight above.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:27 AM
  #8947  
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I forgot to mention that the weight of the car was with the VTA wheels. I am thinking they weigh more then the slicks. I will weigh the car again with different tires.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:52 AM
  #8948  
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Originally Posted by hanzo3
My shock collars are still all the way up to get a 5 mm ride height front. I put some 3 mm shims to widen the car. What else can I do? I am using tamiya blue mica hard springs.
What are you trying to achieve? Lower ride height?
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:19 PM
  #8949  
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Hey all, servo mounts are in and ready to ship! They are available in 20.5mm and 21mm height. Measure the width of your servo and make note of it when you place your order.

Servo saver cams are in too but already in short supply so tell your friends.
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:55 AM
  #8950  
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Originally Posted by YoDog
Here is an exploded view of the servo mount.
They will be shipping as soon as the blocks come back from anodizing.

The small one is pretty hard to see...
Where do I get from
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Old 03-15-2013, 03:34 AM
  #8951  
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Default Notchy Gear Diff

Hi guys,

I've just rebuilt my gear diff for the first time (second hand car!). It was notchy before hand but was hoping a good rebuild and clean would help.

Rebuilt it the first time and it was as notchy as before so I ran the diff in for abit and then rebuilt again. This has definately made the diff smoother but can still feels nothcy.

What would you guys recommend? Assuming sanding the back of the bevel gears might be required abit?

Thanks for any advice!
Dan
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Old 03-15-2013, 04:02 AM
  #8952  
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@YOdog how do we order these parts ?
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:35 AM
  #8953  
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Originally Posted by Crashmaster
Hi guys,

I've just rebuilt my gear diff for the first time (second hand car!). It was notchy before hand but was hoping a good rebuild and clean would help.

Rebuilt it the first time and it was as notchy as before so I ran the diff in for abit and then rebuilt again. This has definately made the diff smoother but can still feels nothcy.

What would you guys recommend? Assuming sanding the back of the bevel gears might be required abit?

Thanks for any advice!
Dan
Hi,
In some gear diff. the case cod.31347 is a little thick, Keven suggested me to remove one or all 31348 (the bigger gear dif shim) parts for to have a freely movement. In my new TC6.1 WE diff. this problem is less strong, and I have removed only one of the 31348 shim. Another tips by Keven is to change, after 3/4 race, the gear diff seals for best result.
In England you can feel also Olly Jefferies by facebook, is a great official Asso TC6.1 racer and he suggests good tips and set-up. Sanding the back of the bevel gears for me is not necessary.
Good Job
Enrico
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:46 AM
  #8954  
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Thanks for the quick responce! I'm assuming removing the fibre shim behind the bevel pin won't cause any issues with sealing of the diff?

Dan

Originally Posted by 20967
Hi,
In some gear diff. the case cod.31347 is a little thick, Keven suggested me to remove one or all 31348 (the bigger gear dif shim) parts for to have a freely movement. In my new TC6.1 WE diff. this problem is less strong, and I have removed only one of the 31348 shim. Another tips by Keven is to change, after 3/4 race, the gear diff seals for best result.
In England you can feel also Olly Jefferies by facebook, is a great official Asso TC6.1 racer and he suggests good tips and set-up. Sanding the back of the bevel gears for me is not necessary.
Good Job
Enrico
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:09 AM
  #8955  
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Originally Posted by ScottyTC4NZ
Where do I get from
Hi Scotty,
Just PM me and I will respond with the info.
Please let me know what servo you are using as there are 2 different block heights to choose from.
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