terry.sc

1. You want the lipo further back for weight distribution, more weight to the rear.

2. Running very short wires to the motor will most likely restrict rear pod movement, and can fatigue the wires due to the constant bending of them.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Back when I was first playing around with inline setups on F1 cars...
I weighed, and checked the balance with lipo back, or esc back
Balance was virtually the same, as the space where the lipo or esc reside carries the same weight

Therefore you can think of the lipo/esc as one mass, unless you move/displace that mass as a whole, there is negligible difference in weight transfer or balance

This is all based on the use of one of the lightest esc out there, Tekin RS

It's easy to check this, I suggest you all try it out

esc/reciever mounted off the side of the chassis will have a small effect on balance/roll

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Servo is moved slightly back on the TRF101 for different ackerman setup. Otherwise, I would have put the receiver in front of the Tekin RS. Both cars have free pod movement using the 16ag motor wires. I go at minimum 14ag on the battery wires.

I also have to say RedbullFiXX is correct. I have corner weighted my V2 and TRF101 with the same tires before and the differences are pretty minor. It will not drastically change the handling unless you got a super heavy shorty lipo.

spring71

iTrader: (3)

We've got TRF101 parts in stock today.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ..._id=2&s_sort=3

FYI, Thanks.

-jacob-

iTrader: (7)

Thanks man. For it to work for me. Spektrum micro reciever and savox low profile servo also reedy shorty pack
Is why I used. You can get more space by having the servo in a vertical position. For me I didn't like how that looked. Good luck

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

Sorry for the noob question my tower hobbies box came today. I did not get a body and a front rear wing with the car. Is that not included in the kit?

Gurneyflap

not included

badboy

iTrader: (14)

Hi.

What are the effects of the following:

1. Moving the side links from the middle to the outer hole and from the middle to the inner most hole?

2. Inline and trailing positions of the front upright

Thanks.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

"The innermost position will allow more chassis roll than outermost position. More chassis roll means more grip but slower weight transfer in a S-turn. That's my guess."

That is the response I got when I asked the same question. I just moved my links to the furthest position a few days ago. I'll be giving it a try next week at the track.

For #2, this is from the Tamiya site.

"The in-line position is suitable for slow speed technical track layouts whereas the off-set trailing position is best for high speed circuits. The trailing position also exhibits less responsiveness to steering input, which can be better if you're looking for an easier car to maneuver."

aussierevo

iTrader: (14)

Raced again last car and car went really well except for one annoying habit, part car part driver.

The aluminum balls that go into the lower front arm popped out each race last night after hitting some piping, but would not be a big hit in any way or I've never once had this happen with the F104 pro over 3 years of racing using the same parts.

I have replaced the lower arm with a new arm thinking it would help but again last night it happened again.

Is there a better aluminum ball that can be used that people have found might be of use.

badboy

iTrader: (14)

Thanks Dan

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

I have my v2 setup with esc behind the battery and the rear pod movement is free and the wires are free from any mechanical stress. I can see that it could happen if one used thick wires.

+ YouTube Video

If you take out the spacers below the upright, the compression of the spring won't allow the aluminum ball to be pushed downward.

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

I saw the car at the track yesterday during open track practice. It looked good. It would have been fun to race with us. I didn't realize it was your car. I was wondering whose car that was and why it was not in the race.

Meilleur

iTrader: (24)

Maybe this might help. I had a problem with the kingpin pulling out of the bottom ball and occasionally losing a ball. In your case, what may be happening is that as the spring compresses and the kingpin raises up, it only makes contact with the upper most portion of the ball. And the kingpin ends up acting like a crow bar and yanking the ball out. Make sure that the kingpin sits low into the bottom ball. When looking at the kingpin from the top, I had about a 1mm sticking out. I ended up lowering it till it sat about 1-2 mm below the top of the top pivot ball. Also check that the steering stop on the bottom arm is not broken at the base. You don't have to replace the arm. Instead, I just put a screw in from the bottom. After I fixed those items, I haven't had a problem since. Hope this helps.

-jacob-

iTrader: (7)

Thank you for the compliment EDchoe

Yeah it was my first time running the car. First time on a F1.. Still playing with the settings. not quite where i want it to be... Dan Garber has given me a lot of advise... my diff was too tight, my steering was not straight... I literaly just finished building it... just wanted to get a couple laps to test the settings out... And yeah its very close but still need a few adjustments. I did not want to run it without getting any practice also... I showed up really late like 10:50... Brian squeezed me in last min.. Thanks Brian! ...

I had a blast on Saturday and met a ton of nice people...

If i cant get a decent amount of practice on the F1 i will def race.

I will be racing it at the hangar 30 for sure hopefully by then i am comfortable.

- Jacob