gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

No, it's a v1 chassis. It has the rounded battery opening, not the square one. And he got it brand new. He mentioned in one of the earlier episodes that the car came with a manual correction for the back part of the chassis (servo mounting step). It looks like v1 kits and spares are coming with the v2 back section. Not a great idea when the v2 back section doesn't fit the body the kit came with, and the kits don't have any of the parts to make use of the droop brace.

mcmattila

Painted this yesterday. I'll add those window lining stickers and probably some others the next time time I work on it, but I'm not so satisfied with my painting that I'd order a custom sponsor sticker sheet for it. Again, I had some overspray, though not as bad as with my last one. The lines are a bit more wobbly than I'd like, and I completely forgot to do a gold line circulating the roof. Well, when/if Tamiya re-release the Mini Cooper body, I promise to buy another and do this properly, with JPS stickers and all! Now I'll just slap my racing numbers in there and don't feel too bad when I'll wreck it.

Some notes to self:
-My red paint marker doesn't work that well with lexan, and a black backing for it is a big no-no. Painted lights are better than stickers though!
-Cut the body after painting. Much tidier results.
-After masking, but before starting painting, sit down and drink a cup of coffee. Recheck the source photo/original plan, and make sure that everything is in place

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

I definitely cut and trim before paint.

mcmattila

I guess both ways have their benefits, and in the end it comes down to preference. I just noticed, that I had sprayed black a little too lightly at the skirt area/wheel arches. I think it's because I didn't want to "go over the edge" (and of course as I didn't notice it before it was too late). The masking might've been a bit easier before cutting as well. Additionally, the overspray cover comes off way easier after cutting, and I managed to rip some off before the painting was finished.

But, the main reason why I chose to cut first here was to get some scrap pieces of lexan to experiment on, and I've got plenty now!

Schs2013

What are the part numbers to convert a M05 to the V2 ? if I am missing any part numbers can someone post up which ones. I feel I am missing some but cant find the other part numbers

-Motor plate 54609
-Chassis Halfs 54605

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

If you're just interested in the core chassis conversion, that's all you need. To make use of the v2 droop screws though, you'll need new arms too.

Edit: Arms are part number 54606.

Schs2013

For now just the core is what im after. The battery options it opens up. The arms with droop screw's not a big deal but a nice option to have.
Thank you for saying

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

One more thing to add - if you're using a standard sized servo, you may also need two 3x18mm screws for the newer servo mounting method.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

-and put holes in prior to paint as well (while you can see through the body).

...dang, been rained out my last two races.
There are other clubs to race w/ but have been too busy. Hope to get one more race in end of this month then will take a break until 2017 season starts up.

Schs2013

Just ordered V2 parts today. getting ready for a partial rebuild on my M05.

fritzthecat

can someone give me a starting setup for the M05 for Type A Tires all around for indoor and outdoor tracks?

which springs, oil, .... do you use.

thank you!

kytr8matic

Can anyone explain it to me about synchronizing motor timing and esc timing..

I have 10.5t sensored motor with end bell timing from 15° to 45°.. and the 120amp esc from programming card can be set from 0° to 26.25°

What timing degree to be set on the motor and the esc for best perfomance (torque and top speed) but not getting the motor cooked itself..

My local track has touring car layout*which is too big for my mini lol

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

If you're using ESC timing, you don't want to use much end bell timing. The idea is that you want low timing for low RPM for better acceleration out of the corners, and high timing for high RPM for faster speed down the straights. End bell timing is fixed so can't self adjust in the same way an ESC can.

End bell timing is mostly used in blinky classes where ESC timing isn't allowed.

With that said, it's hard to recommend a specific amount of timing as it's dependent on the specific motor, gear ratio, and track layout. Start conservatively and add a little bit at a time. Check your temps after a few minutes.

kytr8matic

So should i start with the lowest timing on both motor and ESC or... Lowest timing on motor but start in the middle value on the ESC (my prog. Card has 8 number of timing setup)

And then check it conservatively?

Gearing setup is m05 box stock.. 20t pinion

And this is the motor spec

Ares 3250KV/10.5T/2P BL Motor for 1/10 Car
Sensored /Sensorless: sensored
No loading @7.2V Current 4A
Turns 10.5T
Max current 26A
KV value 3250KV
Resistance (Ω) 0.0213Ω
Poles 2P
Battery range 2S
Diameter 35.9mm
Motor length 51.5mm
Max Temperature 180°
Extend shaft diameter 3.17mm
Suitable car scale 1/10
Length of extend shaft 13.6mm
Suitable ESC 60A

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, you'll want to start with low timing on the end bell. What ESC are you using? My advice so far has assumed your ESC has a timing ramp, and isn't just applying a fixed timing adjustment. If it's doing the latter, it's basically just doing the same thing as an end bell adjustment.