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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 11-06-2016, 05:07 PM
  #28246  
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Not sure what you mean by "move from the front of the wheel well to the back while turning left. "
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Old 11-06-2016, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 2wheelDave
I finally had a chance to race my Mo5v2 last weekend. While working the tighter sections of the track I notice that my front left wheel would act "jittery" /move from the front of the wheel well to the back while turning left. My thoughts were it is the dog bone axle is causing this. What your guys thoughts on this?
Your thoughts are correct. The dog bone probably isn't centred between the axle and the diff outdrive (maybe because you didn't use the little foam spacers)
Or...the slots are notched because of excess use (which you would be able to visually see, so it's probably the former)
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Old 11-06-2016, 05:44 PM
  #28248  
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Originally Posted by tony gray
Your thoughts are correct. The dog bone probably isn't centred between the axle and the diff outdrive (maybe because you didn't use the little foam spacers)
Or...the slots are notched because of excess use (which you would be able to visually see, so it's probably the former)
Come to think of it I don't recall using any foam, I will be looking into it this week. I am not a fan of the "dog bones". Besides Tamiya who makes a decent CVA for the mo5?
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:50 PM
  #28249  
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3racing
http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4109

Spec r make a DCJ
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1663
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:32 PM
  #28250  
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Originally Posted by 2wheelDave
Come to think of it I don't recall using any foam, I will be looking into it this week. I am not a fan of the "dog bones". Besides Tamiya who makes a decent CVA for the mo5?

Do you hear a clicking or grinding noise when this happens???
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
Do you hear a clicking or grinding noise when this happens???
Yes there is a clicking noise, the 3racing axles sound pretty good. I'll be asking about them from my LHS tomorrow
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:41 PM
  #28252  
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Just got back from the "Big Chill", presentedby Overgeared Racing.

Although the class was 21.5 spec'd, there was a gentleman's agreement that we would all use the old Canadian Orca mini motor - which we all found to be of a lower performance than the existing crop of 21.5 motors.

I don't often run this class any more, as it is not a standard class in Vancouver. However it sure was fun to run it again, with all hand-shake agreeing to use the exact same motor. It's no fun running mini, if one guy is running an old Novak Ballistic, while the other guy has a new R1. But when everyone is running the exact same motor from the exact same factory, (with the exact same gear ratio) this class sure becomes a lot of fun.

With limited demand (Only Western Canada) and even more limited supply, I don't see this Canadian spec motor lasting much longer. But as long as clubs and big races spec a specific powerplant - or even do a handout motor - this class will continue to be super fun.
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Old 11-07-2016, 03:16 AM
  #28253  
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Originally Posted by 2wheelDave
Yes there is a clicking noise, the 3racing axles sound pretty good. I'll be asking about them from my LHS tomorrow
I see what you're saying. I don't think your course is that small right? Perhaps dual rate and better diff and suspension setup can get your car to rotate without locking the steering so much that your CVD binds.
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:06 AM
  #28254  
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Originally Posted by (0000000000)
Just got back from the "Big Chill", presentedby Overgeared Racing.

Although the class was 21.5 spec'd, there was a gentleman's agreement that we would all use the old Canadian Orca mini motor - which we all found to be of a lower performance than the existing crop of 21.5 motors.

I don't often run this class any more, as it is not a standard class in Vancouver. However it sure was fun to run it again, with all hand-shake agreeing to use the exact same motor. It's no fun running mini, if one guy is running an old Novak Ballistic, while the other guy has a new R1. But when everyone is running the exact same motor from the exact same factory, (with the exact same gear ratio) this class sure becomes a lot of fun.

With limited demand (Only Western Canada) and even more limited supply, I don't see this Canadian spec motor lasting much longer. But as long as clubs and big races spec a specific powerplant - or even do a handout motor - this class will continue to be super fun.
Yeah, this was kind of a mistake. I'll blame myself for it, or rather blame myself for listening to too many others opinions when we started searching for a spec system in early 2011. When presented with the choices available at the time, very few wanted the 13t HW (too fast) and picking an existing 17.5-21.5 proved impossible, due to brand loyalties and the fact they change every year.

There are some good spec options available now that would suit WCICS, ATS and all the western Canadian clubs. Trinity and several others are making locked 17.5-21.5 motors that would be ideal. The Team Powers locked motors is Probably the best option as it's becoming a standard spec power plant in many Asian series and looks like it could have a good shelf life.

I'm not really involved with the decision making now, in any case. I'm hoping to see another spec motor for the mini class whenever the current manufacturer craps out on us, but I suspect the dorks with larger budgets with demand motor of the month racing.
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:19 PM
  #28255  
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While working the tighter sections of the track I notice that my front left wheel would act "jittery" /move from the front of the wheel well to the back while turning left. My thoughts were it is the dog bone axle is causing this. What your guys thoughts on this?
The dog bones are likely the culprit, BUT check the front hubs ..specifically the top and bottom where there should be a screw at each (top and bottom) holding everything together. I was getting some practice laps in last Thursday and the bottom screw was loose, it was causing the exact thing your referring to. All it required was to tighten that screw about 3 turns, problem solved.

-basically w/ a loose screw on the front hub there will be room for lots of extra movement, it may be more noticeable when turning.

Either way, whatever it is let us know when you determine the issue. (it may help someone else reading this who has the same issue).
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:33 PM
  #28256  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
The dog bones are likely the culprit, BUT check the front hubs ..specifically the top and bottom where there should be a screw at each (top and bottom) holding everything together. I was getting some practice laps in last Thursday and the bottom screw was loose, it was causing the exact thing your referring to. All it required was to tighten that screw about 3 turns, problem solved.

-basically w/ a loose screw on the front hub there will be room for lots of extra movement, it may be more noticeable when turning.

Either way, whatever it is let us know when you determine the issue. (it may help someone else reading this who has the same issue).
So far all of the screws tighten correctly on the front end, I didn't have enough daylight to look into/install the rubber donuts. I would have ordered the CVA's but the wife's car needs breaks lol
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:49 PM
  #28257  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
I was getting some practice laps in last Thursday and the bottom screw was loose, it was causing the exact thing your referring to. All it required was to tighten that screw about 3 turns, problem solved.

-basically w/ a loose screw on the front hub there will be room for lots of extra movement, it may be more noticeable when turning.

Either way, whatever it is let us know when you determine the issue. (it may help someone else reading this who has the same issue).
eR1c Are you telling us that YOU had a Loose Screw behind the wheel???
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Old 11-10-2016, 04:55 PM
  #28258  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
The dog bones are likely the culprit, BUT check the front hubs ..specifically the top and bottom where there should be a screw at each (top and bottom) holding everything together. I was getting some practice laps in last Thursday and the bottom screw was loose, it was causing the exact thing your referring to. All it required was to tighten that screw about 3 turns, problem solved.

-basically w/ a loose screw on the front hub there will be room for lots of extra movement, it may be more noticeable when turning.

Either way, whatever it is let us know when you determine the issue. (it may help someone else reading this who has the same issue).
I found some foam "pucks" in my parts bin, they are part of shock rebuild for a AE touring car. I have put them in the outdrives of the diff. I might be able to do a test drive Saturday...I keep running out of daylight
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Old 11-10-2016, 04:59 PM
  #28259  
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Originally Posted by 2wheelDave
I found some foam "pucks" in my parts bin, they are part of shock rebuild for a AE touring car. I have put them in the outdrives of the diff. I might be able to do a test drive Saturday...I keep running out of daylight
You might want to make sure they're not too big, the AE ones I've got are pretty thick. You should detach your shocks and see if the suspension moves without binding with the foam in place. If they're too thick, the binding will occur when the axles are parallel to the ground. You may need to trim them down a bit.
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Old 11-12-2016, 09:30 PM
  #28260  
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Does HPI still 225mm mini bodies?
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